| Author | Message | ||
| Roger Dalke (Roger_d)
Registered Member Username: Roger_d Post Number: 13 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 205.206.150.12 Rating: N/A |
I need to remove the rear suspension arms to do some structural repair. I've removed the nuts and bolts but the arms won't budge! Any suggestions? Thanks! Roger | ||
| David Lower (Dave_l)
Registered Member Username: Dave_l Post Number: 65 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 99.249.16.254  Rating: N/A |
Hello Roger do you have new bushings to replace the old ones with. The bushings are rubber and are probably rusted to the pin, you have taken the nuts off and the round plates, you might try a two or three jaw puller. Do you have a repair manual for your MC7. Larry; no it is a straight pin the round plate with two bolts hold it on, the rubber part is replacable I wish I had my manual with me. there is a tool to insert the new rubbers it is basicly two bars with three pins to fold the rubber making inserting them easier. the manual gives you dimentions so you can make your own tool. Perhaps one of the other men here can help you with that. I also forget if there is a steel insert that goes between the rubber and pin. Dave L (Message edited by dave l on September 01, 2008) (Message edited by dave l on September 01, 2008) | ||
| larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc Post Number: 194 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 207.200.116.13 Rating: N/A |
Are they a taper fit,like a tie rod end? (Message edited by larryc on September 01, 2008) | ||
| Roger Dalke (Roger_d)
Registered Member Username: Roger_d Post Number: 14 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 205.206.150.180 Rating: N/A |
Dave, I do have a repair manual, maybe I should look!lol I don't have new bushings yet, but will by the time it goes back together. Will try the puller idea. I had thought of that but hadn't tried it yet. Larry, no, they are similar to the end of a shock. Thanks all! Roger | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 824 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.3.173.51  Rating: |
When we changed our bushings, I found it easier to pry both ends of the radius rod at the same time. I also only removed one radius rod at a time to prevent excessive movement of the axle. We still had to use a porta-power to get everything in alignment when re-installing the radius rod. You can replace the bushings with OEM type rubber one piece or you can get 2 piece polyurethane. The polyurethane are easier to install and should last longer BUT give a little harsher ride with more "road feel" transmitted into the bus. The 2 piece are available from International Bus & Parts in Apopka, FL 1-800-468-5287. Jack (Message edited by JackConrad on September 01, 2008) | ||
| George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6 Post Number: 541 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 207.231.75.253 Rating: N/A |
Jack's got my vote! Do one arm at a time, and pry on both ends with a big crowbar. Luckily mine went back together easily. G | ||
| larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc Post Number: 195 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 207.200.116.13 Rating: N/A |
In the real world polyurethane should be best. They are not. They will die years before rubber will. I quit using them 10 years ago and won't give them another chance. They have failed in every situation I have used them. They look nice and come in colors but don't last. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1350 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.132.136  Rating: N/A |
Radius Rods require great amounts of force to remove. Don't be afraid to lay into it. 6 foot pry bars, sledge hammers, a younger fellow to swing and pry... Be sure the coach is well positioned for the application of all this force. PS, it has been known that the torch is capable of removing the bushing....lots of stinky smoke... happy coaching! buswarrior (Message edited by buswarrior on September 02, 2008) | ||
| David Lower (Dave_l)
Registered Member Username: Dave_l Post Number: 67 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 99.249.16.254 Rating: N/A |
Roger you can call Western Bus Parts in Vancouver B.C at (604) 980-4443 they are listed on MCI service parts web site as a place you can get oem parts. Buswarrior, do you know if there is a steel bushing between the rubber and the pin. Dave L Thanks Jack for the answer. (Message edited by dave l on September 02, 2008) | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 827 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.3.173.51 Rating: |
Not sure about your bus, but our MC-8 had no steel bushing. Just the rubber bushing that was stuck to the radius rod and the steel pin in the center that has the large heavy washer bolted on. Jack | ||
| Roger Dalke (Roger_d)
Registered Member Username: Roger_d Post Number: 15 Registered: 8-2007 Posted From: 205.206.150.66 Rating: N/A |
Well I've solved the bushing dilema! The bushings were so rusty there was no way to pry them off. I took a 1/4" drill bit and drilled into the rubber all the way around. The bushing then just falls out. Then I couldn't get the upper radius arm off as it binds on the airbeam above the bag. After a call to mci tech,(1-800-241-2947) they told me that there are two pinch bolts at the top of the differential where the rods attach. You take them out and viola! the whole mount can be driven right off the diff. I also learned that if you take the studs out it's easier also. I love it when progress actually happens! Thanks for all the suggestions, and I hope this helps someone else also! Roger | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 632 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 72.146.80.93  Rating: N/A |
What is the procedure (if any) to secure the radius arms when replacing the bushings? Aside from the proper blocking of the bus and axles, is it necessary to chain or secure the axles to prevent movement when the radius arms are released from their pins? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1362 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.132.24 Rating: N/A |
You have to support both the axle and the body in order to prevent their moving in relation to one another when you disconnect. The radius rods are what hold the axle in position, think of them as one side of a triangle, the body the other side, and the air suspension as the moving third side. If the rods are disconnected, the location of the axle is only secured by the air bag, which is not able to prevent movement or in the extreme, the body twisting off the axle or vice versa. Be sure the other end of the coach is blocked sufficiently that the weight of the coach leaning "downhill" isn't a problem. You will want to be able to make adjustments during this procedure, so, raising the coach high by way of jacking under the axles, blocking the body, then having the ability to lower the jacks to move the axle up and down in relation to the body will make life a lot easier and give you more options, depending on your strategy to fish those bars in and out and the order of your planned operation. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 633 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 72.154.191.200 Rating: N/A |
Thanka-youa! I will pass that along to the guy that asked me! |
