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Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
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Username: Zimtok

Post Number: 286
Registered: 9-2006
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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 10:50 am:   

I've read on this forum many things about installing the rubber hinges. Cleaning the channel very well, using a lot of liquid soap, etc...

I have a few questions that I have not seen answers to yet...

1. Do you cut the rubber hinge to size before you install it? or leave it long? How long?

2. Do you install it on the bus first and then install the door? or the other way around?


.
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
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Post Number: 65
Registered: 7-2006
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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 11:48 am:   

Austin be sure that you clean the groves really good, an easy way is use a cleaning brush used for 22 cal rifle and brush it out,if you do not have one you can use steel wool or roll up a piece of emorie wet and dry sand paper and clean taking time to do each end of the bus hinge grove real good. now using liquid soap apply to to bus part of the hinge, soap up the rubber hinge and slide in to the crove being sure to push it tight to the far end, now hold up the other end ot the other side and cut 1 inch longer than the grove,feed into the groove being sure to have it straight at the center, apply your soap solution to the door grove and slide into place. it is nice to have some one help hold up part of the door as it is being slide into place,once the door is on slide it back and forth a couple times to get the strech out of rubber, this is when i replace the screws at each end. also i put a tea spoon full of baking soda in the squirt bottle with the soap and water this seems to help stop the al.oxidation.
Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
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Username: Zimtok

Post Number: 287
Registered: 9-2006
Posted From: 216.37.73.226

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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 4:16 pm:   

Mel,
Thanks for the tips.
Baking soda in the soap/water to prevent oxidation of the aluminum. I would never have thought of that.
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 118
Registered: 1-2005
Posted From: 70.61.17.72


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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 9:52 pm:   

Where do you get your replacement rubber hinges. My replacements tend to only last one year or a little more
Thank you
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 728
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 208.54.200.116

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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 10:28 pm:   

Austin,

Just a couple of things to add to what Mel said.

I slide the hinge through the door groove a couple of times just to make sure it is nice and easy before I install the hinge in the body.

I cut the hinge to size before installing in the body. If the body groove is nice and clean and lubed the hinge won't stretch.


I then install the screws (SS) into the body hinge before installing the door so the hinge won't slip. There are four screws on the longer doors. Use SS screws, steel will quickly rust.

Don't use any kind of steel on Al, it will cause a rust spot as the steel particles will embed into the Al. Brass, Al or bronze is much better. Emery paper is not good either. The only thing to use on Al is plain sandpaper or red 3M pads.

I would hesitate to use baking soda on Al as it is caustic. I would check with a good chemist to find out for sure.


Jim,

I got mine from IBP. The first ones I installed came with the bus and they lasted about a month!! I have no idea where they came from.

The ones from IBP are two years old and show no signs of problems.
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Post Number: 186
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 209.50.72.2

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Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 11:47 pm:   

Jim
A stainless steel hinge about 4" long for each end of the track is avaiable from Bernie at Bernhard Bus in PA. Once you get the rubber in and the SS hinges you will never replace them again.
Bill
Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
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Post Number: 289
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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 9:01 am:   

Gus,
I was thinking of using a 3M scotch pad for the cleaning.
Checking the fit on the door sounds like a good idea. Better to find a tight spot during the test fit then when your holding the door to install it.

Jim,
I got my rubber hinges from a friend, he said they were from IBP.
Luke at US Coach also has them. He can explain why some don't last.
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 11:07 am:   

Jim -

I agree that the stainless hinge is the way to go - do it once, and then on to other maintenance items.

Ed (edannbus at aol dot com) also has the stainless steel hinges, sells them either individually or as a kit for each door. Send him a note, and he'll give you all the details.

FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Post Number: 729
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 208.54.200.228

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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 6:50 pm:   

Austin,

The information for use of red 3M pads came from something I read about removing corrosion from aircraft Al.

Other colors may work just as well but I'm not sure of that. I always thought all 3M pads are free of steel but they may not be.

I looked into the SS hinges before renewing mine. I had two objections; the high price and having to open up the body groove gap quite a bit to fit the SS hinge into the body groove. I just didn't want to do that because I was afraid of making a mess.

Also, there were a couple of strings here or on the other board about the SS hinges leaking water into the baggage comp.

Once you install a couple of rubber hinges they are easy after that so I decided to stick with them.
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 119
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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 9:14 pm:   

Thanks for all the input. I did not say but I got these from Luke.. Will call to find out why they do not last. Will also check IBP. hmmm...the stanless hinge idea is interesting. I have about a dozen slightly used in a box...will consider all the replies.
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 9:19 pm:   

Bill ..oops..missed this
"stainless steel hinge about 4" long for each end of the track is avaiable from Bernie at Bernhard" not sure who he is.
I think I better keep mine in the box. Now that I think more about it, (ready, fire, aim..that's me)I doubt that the ones I have will fit.
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Post Number: 189
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Posted on Tuesday, September 09, 2008 - 11:59 pm:   

Jim
I did a search and came up with the followiing
Bernhard Bus in PA 215-679-8943
bernhardbus.com
Bill
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Posted on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 - 9:57 pm:   

Bill...thanks..have it bookmarked for contact for my next hinges
Len Silva (Lsilva)
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Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 9:12 am:   

In addition to everyone else's suggestions, I use a 2" scrap of rubber hinge to make sure that both grooves are clean and slide easily.
Craig Craddock (Gs4)
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Post Number: 46
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Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2008 - 6:09 pm:   

Like Len I use a scrap piece. Especially in the door it is not fun to get it part way on and the door does not want to go on or off. I use a about a 1" piecs tapered a little on one end for the trial. I also use lotsa of dishwashing soap with a little water or KY jelly. Non diluted dish soap drys to fast. Have a rag in your pocket to wipe hands off slippery hands, make for great fun trying to pull and or push the door on. Two people is definately the best but many times I do it myself with the door on a portable work bench the correct height. With my 1/100 of a hp power if it not free in the groove and if I get it stuck I am in big trouble. In others words HELP! I have some hinges that had lasted 8 to 12 years since I installed them. My bus is all white may not the prettiest. I tape off the rubber hinges material and spray can over the rubber hinge white. Most of it stays on with out cracking off and occasionally I re touch up. My bus is outside all of the time in the hot central CA sun. I also have one shock type door opener this definetly pushes up on that open end of the hinge this is almost always where a faulure occurs first me. I am thinking about trying Bill Gerrie's idea. I have stored material bought in 1996 until 2006 before it would not last I put in a zip lock bag squeeze all the air out, store in a cool, complete dark place.
Maybe not the prettiest or the right way. Maybe I have been lucky, but as the song goes " My Way "
Good luck in which ever way you go.
James Stacy (Jimstacy)
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Post Number: 146
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Posted on Friday, September 19, 2008 - 9:59 pm:   

A single gas cylinder support will literaly eat the rubber hinge. It puts a great pressure on the end of the rubber and even the fabric reinforced hinge will tear. The short stainless hinges on each end with the fabric reinforced rubber(Buffalo) hinge in the middle will last a LOOOONG time. This is all personal experience. After changing the rubber every year for several years, I tried the buffalo brand. Much better but the twist of the gas support is very destructive. The short stainless hinges end the problem totally. Thanks again, Bernie.

Jim Stacy
Jerry Coombs (Jerry_c)
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Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 3:13 pm:   

I was also one to replace, eventually, ALL my rubber hinges with those from edannabus on my 4106. Made a special tool to clean out the groves really good, an angle gringer to grind out the track in the middle of the bus grove big enough to get the hinges in the grove, and made sure ALL hinges slid easily through both the bus and door tracks. Once done I've not done another thing to them. Suggested in with the hinges was to install a small aluminum angle with sealing foam at top of each door to seal it from wind and maybe water -- never got around to that yet but think it would work. SOMEDAY those pressure shocks to support the doors would be nice lol

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