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bill baxter (Bill_baxter)
Registered Member
Username: Bill_baxter

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2008
Posted From: 70.192.131.18

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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 12:01 am:   

from what I have heard, foam insulation is the best way to go. I would like to know if anyone has had
theirs done and what it would cost. Any other sug-
gestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member
Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 494
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 208.100.193.216

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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 6:04 am:   

Nicest I have seen is when the empty coach is taken to the hot foam pro.

They spray the entire interior and an 18-24 inch blade from a wood "Bow saw" (that spans the ribs) is attached to a body shop "Jitterbug" air sander and used to trim the interior fast and easily.

Wear a mask , it makes tons of dust.

The home spray systems will never give the rated R value as they are not expanding in free space .

The better grade of box store foam , and caned foam to hold it in place is second choice , good insulation , but not as quieting .

FF
Glenn Williams (Glenn)
Registered Member
Username: Glenn

Post Number: 172
Registered: 6-2006
Posted From: 216.163.56.50


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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 8:54 am:   

On my MCI 7, I had it spray foamed from the bottom of the side windows up and over the roof. I did not take off the structural interior aluminum panels. It cost me 650 and it is one of the best things I did for my bus. It tightens up the sides and roof, makes it much more quiet and really does the job keeping the heat in. Go for it!

Glenn
Ed Roelle (Ed_roelle)
Registered Member
Username: Ed_roelle

Post Number: 67
Registered: 3-2005
Posted From: 98.209.249.151

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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 9:34 am:   

I saw on one bus where the hot foam insulation warped the siding. The owner had installed fiberglass sides.

Ed Roelle
Flint, MI
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member
Username: Jackconrad

Post Number: 840
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 99.204.25.166


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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 9:57 am:   

We had our shell spray-foamed by a commercial spray foam company after doing the roof raise (2" on sides and roof). Made the bus much quieter as well as much better thermal insulation. We paid $1000, but that was about 8 years ago. Jack
Wayne Schell (Rusty_eagle)
Registered Member
Username: Rusty_eagle

Post Number: 14
Registered: 4-2008
Posted From: 71.218.27.93

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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 11:31 am:   

Hot foam is the way to go. I would caulk where the skin meets the frame. The foam will get between the two and if ther is room to move it will push the siding out and cause ripples. It happened to my bus. I have fiberglass sides.
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
Registered Member
Username: Mel_4104

Post Number: 82
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 205.250.191.175

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Posted on Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 10:13 pm:   

the way that we did ours and the brother inlaws , we removed all the inside sheeting and all the old wire we were not going to re use,plus all the old insulation.. now we straped all the walls and ceiling with 1"x2"alder boards.we cased around the windows first and then did the walls and then the ceiling. the spacing of the stripping depended where curves started or openings such doors and other openings. after the strapping was in place we put in the wiring and and thing else we wanted in under the final inside sheeting, being sure to box in the electrical boxes. we then covered all the strapping on the inside surface with black electic tape, not duck tape as when it heats up it will be very hard to remove, this tape yoy take off after the foam guy has finished. this gives uoy a surface to work towhen removing the excess. be very sure that the foam guy puts on very thin coats and builds it up to the finished depth, this will help prevent any worping of the outside sheating. when it has aired out a little inside go in and pulloff the black tape off the strapping while the foam is still warm as it is much easyier to do then. we used a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a wire wheel on it. this is a very messy job so besure that you have lots of fresh air and the windows and door open. this will sound strange but i took a vacum cleaner, attached a garden hose to vac hose , swithed the hose to the out put side, the i took a full face safty shield and a pillow case which i cut a hole in the size of the clear part and ducktaped it onto the safty mask so that when you put it on the pillow case covered and mask on your head, next i took the end of the garden hose and taped it to the back of the head band and attached the hose to my belt so it would not all ways be pulling on the helmet. you now have fresh air all the time blowing over the top of your head and keeping out all that fine dust. be sure to use a new vac. filter and new vac bag. i also washed out the vac hose and cleaned out the vac itself real good before i used it. this worked real good for us . oh forgot to tell you get a piece of 1/8 plywood X4" wide x4ft long, attach 2 pieces of the scrap 4" long accross it for handles, this is what you use to check that you do not grind off too much and this thin ply will bend around the curves.
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
Registered Member
Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 46
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160

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Posted on Friday, October 10, 2008 - 10:54 am:   

I have a MC9 and had it sprayed foamed by a proffesional. I did strip the inside panels, all of them and then applied the foam. It did require shaving afterwards. I was told that the foam expands and does act as a good support as well. Therefore I didn't replace the interior panels, just lined the inside with plywood. It did not cause the exteriour panels to ward at all. It is much quieter and I is the best form of isulation that I am aware of, although it is not cheap. My only concern is the fact that I didn't replace the interiour panels for structure reasons as I have only put about 100 miles on the bus since then. It isn't the cheapest way to go.
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Registered Member
Username: Sffess

Post Number: 744
Registered: 1-2002
Posted From: 66.38.120.219

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Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 6:03 pm:   

I have ordered a Soythane kit from Florida. It uses a unique 2 part mixing cartrige and a gun that stays clean (no clean up after spraying). Requires 10 CFM at 100 PSI to power the air motor on the gun. I will be using this on my basement walls but I will be able to tell you more about it after next week when I spray the first section. Each cartridge covers 32 sq ft to a 1" depth. R 6.25 per inch.

This would be a useful system to someone working in sections as I am in my basement.

I could not find a hot foam sprayer up here so I decided to try this system.

Search Soythane to find info.
Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member
Username: Pd41044039

Post Number: 325
Registered: 2-2001
Posted From: 69.77.156.190

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Posted on Monday, October 13, 2008 - 5:51 pm:   

Soythane sounds like a foam made from soybeans.

If that is true, I wonder what mice, chipmunks & rats think of the flavor?
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess)
Registered Member
Username: Sffess

Post Number: 747
Registered: 1-2002
Posted From: 66.38.120.219

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Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 8:48 pm:   

Soy is used to make the chemical components just like petroleum. No food value in the foam, no food smell. Check out the website.

I am still preparing for my first spraying: wiring, patching etc.

Company has a full time 24 hr help line with an actual man who has done it and knows the ins and outs.

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