| Author | Message | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 367 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100  Rating: N/A |
OK, here is what I think I need. Please tell me if I'm on the right track. This has been a great learning experience for me, and I'm glad for it. Still have never received the documentation on changing from DD-3 to Spring Brake. 1 ea. Bendix PP-DC Park Control Valve 1 ea. Bendix QR-N Quick Release Valve 1 ea. Bendix SR-1 Spring Brake Valve 2 ea. MGM 3030 Piggy Back Spring Brake I should be able to get all of this for less than the cost of one DD-3 rebuilt. I will use the DOT nylon tubing and new fittings where necessary | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 368 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
Here is the main Bendix site link, | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1379 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.123.198  Rating: N/A |
This would also be a time to convert to a dual circuit braking system. The DD3 system already gets you most of the way there, in that you have the park circuit and the service circuit, many of the lines and two tanks available. Generally, add a double check valve to feed your new springs from both tanks, remove the pressure regulator from the park tank output, choose one tank for front, one for back, add a new dual circuit brake pedal valve, new lines to the front, existing to the back, cap the old fronts and you're done. Confirm valving upstream of the tanks does not interfere with newly anticipated performance, equal air to both tanks building air, confirm air integrity both sides in turn by draining the other side, confirm function of pressure protection valve to block air to the accessories under loss of air and off you go? happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Mark Renner (Boomer)
Registered Member Username: Boomer Post Number: 112 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 12.180.53.193  Rating: N/A |
I put MGM 3036's on mine. Don't know if they will fit on an 01 though. Every little bit of performance helps. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 291 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 72.12.39.78  Rating: N/A |
Thanks, Paul. I tried to find these on the Bendix website with no luck. These work fine now. | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 369 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
BW, Thanks for the additional work! Mark, I have plenty of room but I think I would need to beef up the bracket for adding the additional force. I could do the work, just don't have the time. I'll think I will stay with the 3030. Good idea though. Thanks guys | ||
| Ian Giffin (Admin)
Board Administrator Username: Admin Post Number: 1119 Registered: 7-1997 Posted From: 24.239.12.139  Rating: N/A |
Hi Paul, Since when should this site work the same as any others? LOL!! Go to the Topics page via the link at the top of this page. Then go to the bottom of the Topics page and click the Help/Instructions link. On the Help/Instructions page, click the Formatting link. On the resulting page, click Other Formatting and you will see the Hyperlinks instruction set. Copy and paste "/newurl{URL, text description}" into your message and replace "URL" with the link to the page you're referring to, then replace "text description" with the words you want to describe the link. Leave the comma in place. (Please note that the first character in the quotes should be a "\" not a "/" as I have used. I have had to use the "/" or else the link would have been active and not shown properly. I've intentionally used the wrong syntax for illustrative purposes). It's a way easier than it looks... and significantly easier than converting to a dual circuit braking system!! HTH Ian www.busnut.com | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 122 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
There is good reason why both rubber and plastic air line is used on the same chassis. Plastic is used ONLY where it can be run between 2 components where there will be no movement between the two. Rubber air lines need to be used where there IS movement between one component and the other. If you use plastic where it will be flexing with movement it is going to crack and that would be bad. Additionally I like to use 3/8 where ever possible for uniformity, sometimes you will find 1/2 inch. When using plastic the emergency lines should be red and the service lines should be green for primary and secondary, blue for suspension, auxiliary air black. Again use rubber between two components that have movement between them. I also have way better results with the thread sealer in a jar over the tape. Make TRIPPLE SURE you have that thing supported well. | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 370 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
First, Thanks I@n...But I think I will try something different from now on....Not use a link...HA Just kidding, I'll give it a try, that is if I remember to! Joe, Thanks for the information, I will keep your suggestions in mind. I don't use tape anyway, have always used compound as it works better and you don't have to worry about any threads from the tape fouling up a valve spool. | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 124 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Mark those 30/36's you have installed are the same that Prevo installs on the drive axle. The larger side of that chamber (36) is the parking brake side of it. Go figure. They are also pretty pricey in relation to a 30/30 that can be had for around 40 bucks. That 30/36 is going to set you back at least 115 dollars. What did you give for the ones you bought if you don't mind me asking. Prevo gets 155. When I get around to changing mine I am going with 30/30 but will be switching the tag to maxis too. Originally they were just simple brake diaphragms. the 30/30 and 30/36 are so close in size you really gotta look very close to see the difference. Clearance will not be a factor when substituting one for another. Every tractor trailer in the country is running 30/30's and if they are strong enough for 80000lb I think they will hold one of these campers. If you put maxis on the tag they need to be smaller 20/26 or something like that or you will get too muck braking action to that single tire tag and it will be locking up. | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 371 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
Joe, I read that the 30/36 is the longer 3" stroke, that's one reason I didn't go that route. I know it's only 1/2", but with the added 165# of force I thought you would need to beef up the bracket. Am I understanding this correctly? I am still going to go the 30/30 route. Bus Warrior, According to my manual it states that a dual air brake system is used. If either the front or rear brakes fail the other is still operational. Is that the same as the dual curcuit you mentioned? I do have an E-6 treadle valve in the system. (Message edited by dreamscape on November 01, 2008) (Message edited by dreamscape on November 01, 2008) | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 125 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Primary and secondary-front and rear. If you keep your brakes adjusted the travel on that push rod should only be 1 but not more than 2 inches. On mine it is a huge difference in braking when they travel 2 inches compared to 1 inch. I adjust them frequently, they are manual. The automatics are convenient for sure but if you want to keep the brakes at a very tight adjustment manualls are better. After running them up tight I only open them back1/4 turn. | ||
| Mark Renner (Boomer)
Registered Member Username: Boomer Post Number: 113 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 12.180.53.193 Rating: N/A |
Joe, I paid 114.81 but that was about three years ago. My coach weighs 40,000 and when I park on an incline I want it to stay put. A few dollars more yes, but a one time investment. I feel that, with the money that we all spend on creature comforts, appearance, etc. we should not hesitate to go all the way on brakes, tires, steering, etc. MGM part no. 3433051. | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 127 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Agreed Mark. When I go to 30/30's I will be putting maxis on the tag were they originally were not. Somewhere around the mid 90's Pervo switched to tag axle maxis, from the factory. It is an easy upgrade. Due to the normally infrequent use of these campers mileage is not a good interval for maxi replacement, age should be the deciding factor here. IMO 5 or 6 years. Air bags can safely go 10yr. It's a lot easier and less expensive to do this stuff in the drive verses on the shoulder of the road. Goes a long way towards peace of mind too. |