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Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 126
Registered: 1-2005
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Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 12:14 am:   

I have been draining the valve from my 1962 PD4106 air compressor discharge muffler valve regularly and get normal black watery discharge. Also, drain my auxiliary tank regularly. So far so good...Mystery part is that I recently (finally) located my wet and dry tanks. Manuals say to drain daily but since I had not located until recently I have not drained...DAILY??? how about not since I have had the coach-4 years. ANYHOW...I got under the bus today, opened the drain valve on the dry tank and pssst...CLEAN AIR...I was afraid of what I would find but was pleasantly (but suspiciously) suprised. The wet tank is plugged with no drain valve. Since I got clean drain from dry tank, I see no reason to fool with wet tank.
Can anyone explain, why my dry tank was clean? Perhaps I have an automatic draining device I do not know about?
I would appreciate any input on this. I wishfully think that somehow everything is ok and I do not have to worry about draining the wet or dry tank for some unknown reason.
ANY CLUES out there???
Thanks in advance
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
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Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 10:44 am:   

Jim,
By doing a good job of draining the muffler tank, you have greatly reduced the moisture continuing on into the system.

BUT, they are called wet and dry tanks for a reason! Most of the rest of the moisture will condense in the wet tank. Until it fills completely, almost no water will pass into the dry tank. Another thing to think about, liquids don't compress. So, any water in a tank reduces its air storage capacity.

Drain the air pressure everywhere, then remove the plug on the wet tank and replace it with a valve. Several styles are available, including cord-operated, where you pull a line run to the outside edge of the bus to operate the hard to reach valve.
Don't go under your air ride bus, or between the tires and the wheel wells until you have it blocked securely at the jacking points!
Good luck, and happy draining.
George
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 12:03 pm:   

Jim -

George is right on - you need to pull the plug on your wet tank and drain the gunk out. Be prepared - it can be very, very yucky!

Also, his suggestion for getting the remote release drain valves is a good one. You should be able to pick them up at any NAPA store, especially one that caters to the 18-wheeler crowd (or at an 18-wheeler parts store, for that matter.) You'll need to know the thread size for them to match.

Another thought is to install an air dryer unit similar to what later model GMs and others use. These automatically purge the wet tank when the governor kicks out at 110-120 psi.

And while you're playing with the plumbing, install some quick-disconnect air chucks so you can air the coach up using shop air or a portable compressor. I'll send you a couple of photos of my 4106's set-up when I get back to Fresno from MN on Tues.

FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 127
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Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2008 - 4:43 pm:   

HEY Thanks guys. I have a corded operated valve. Will drain wet tank and replace with cord valve. I had a sneaking suspicion it was called wet tank for a reason
Thanks again for the good info
L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
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Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 5:52 pm:   

RJ...

Could you send those pics to me as well? jrjones(at)twcny(dot)rr(dot)com Should be close enough for us 4104 folks, eh?? Thanks!!

On my 4104, I have an air chuck on my front dry tank (compartment under the driver's seat). I read somewhere in here about possible check valves, but mine airs up fine at the front tank...bags and brakes. Hope I'm not doing any damage.

Thanks guys....Jamo
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 128
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Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 7:46 pm:   

RJ. Yes, Like Jamo, I would be very interested in seeing pix of your air chuck set up
Larry & Lynne Dixon (Larry_d)
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Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 9:33 pm:   

RJ Why not post the pictures on here? I bet a whole bunch of us would like to see, one picture is worth a K of words.
Thanks 4905 Larry
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 10:37 pm:   

Jamo,

That is the Aux tank, the dry tank is underneath in front of the axle.

I use this to air up the whole system too, works well and don't see how it could possible cause any damage. It is much simpler than trying to connect to the wet tank. The dry tank is even harder to get to.

The easy way to connect to the air system is to install a female quick disconnect at the aux tank so you can use it to air up the tires or for air tools.

To air up the bus system via this female fitting I put two male quick disconnects back to back with a short nipple. You can leave this on the tank if you put a valve before the female fitting.

This allows you to either take air from the bus or add to it.

(Message edited by gusc on November 03, 2008)
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 129
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Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2008 - 9:10 pm:   

Gus...thanks for the confirmation. I have the exact setup you describe on my aux tank. I have been concerned about damage to check valves by airing up suspension using this tap through the auxiliary tank. It is handy for lots of things including tires and raising the bus without firing the engine.
thanks again for the reply
L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
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Post Number: 52
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Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 7:01 pm:   

Two males back to back with a short nipple. Jeez, I thought I'd strayed to another site! Oughta put a couple females in there just to keep them honest.

Actually, I already have those males & nipples to air up my Aux tank...and bags, and brakes. Works great. Glad I'm not doing any damage to inline check valves.

Thanks for the pics and info too, RJ....as well as all the good reading (& info) from the rest of you fine folks...

Jamo
L James Jones Jr (Jamo)
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Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 7:05 pm:   

Ooooops, meant to say thanks to you, Gus. You sent me the pics and info on the shocks from another thread.

Thanks you Gus...

Jamo
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 7:26 pm:   

I see no way you can ever damage a check valve on anything. Most are simple flappers or balls, they just close when pressure is reversed.

They are the simplest valves ever.

Jamo, you will enjoy those engine door struts. I thank myself for getting lucky every time I pull that handle.
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
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Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 8:03 pm:   

while you have the drain plug out of the bottom get a airesol can of brake kleen and a 10" piece of 1/4 air line or any thing that you can slip over the straw that comes with the can and spray inside of the air tank moving the pipe around to get all parts of the inside of the tank. use all the can full and do a good jop of getting the ends and the sides as it washs out it will be messy so be sure that you put something down to catch the out flow. this will clean out all that sludge and depending how bad it is you may have to use 2 cans full when finished spraying just leave the plug out for a couple hours to let the fumes dissapate and any left in the system will not hurt any thing. it evaporated real quick. when i spray a tank i spray all around in side and let it sit for a couple minutes the really wash it down as the first shot softens up the sludge and the last washs out every thing.
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 130
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Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 8:35 pm:   

MEL..Thanks for that cleaning info...I was wondering how to clean out
GUS. Thanks for the reassurance on check valves AND I sure would love to know about ENGINE DOOR STRUTS...I have been considering and not yet figured out specs on struts or best way to mount. I have a minor tear in rotator cuff in my right shoulder and sometimes I think I would rather be getting a root-canal over the pain I get holding that engine door open while I struggle to get the pin in with my left. Should I start new thread, perhaps? Thanks in advance
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 6:06 am:   

.I was wondering how to clean out

If you drive in freezing weather you will need to fill the alcohol jar .

It serves the purpose of cleaning the first tank too.

FF
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 3:03 pm:   

Jim....re mounting of door struts. Try Austinhardware.com. They sell them at a good price and will tell you exactly what you need and how to mount.
BTDT....FWIW. :-)

RCB
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 3:06 pm:   

FF....elaborate a bit on the Alcohol jar. I have not used one, but you've piqued my interest! :-) :-)
FWIW, all of my tanks are "wet" according to the above posts...each has a dump valve; 4 up front and two in the rear.
Thanx,
RCB

(Message edited by chuckllb on November 06, 2008)
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 8:41 pm:   

Jim,

Did I send you the lift strut photos and measurements? I thought I did but maybe not.

Let me know.
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Post Number: 131
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 8:52 pm:   

Gus. I do not think you sent me photos but you may have...would appreciate again. jim.rink@gmail.com
RC...just cleaned and filled alcohol bottle...thank you for the tip. I have used Austin...you are correct in that they have it all. I did not know that they could advise me on which to get. I ordered brackets from them for my bay doors..but that attempt failed. Bought the struts with guess work locally and eventually gave up on the idea.
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 11:58 pm:   

As requested, here are photos of my 4016's front and rear air chucks.

First photo is the front,


Front Air Chuck


Next is the rear:

Rear Air Chuck 1


Two more pics in the next post. . .
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 12:05 am:   

Two more pics for you to contemplate:

Second view of rear air chuck:

Rear Air Chuck 2



Finally, here is a close-up of the male/male adapter used to connect air hoses. Note that the shape of the end is different between the top and bottom ones. The top is more common, and seals better than the bottom, so make sure you get similar models so that they'll be compatible with the guy who comes to your rescue at oh dark thirty!

Adapters


FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 7:44 am:   

"I have been draining the valve from my 1962 PD4106 air compressor discharge muffler valve regularly and get normal black watery discharge."

I read about the muffler , but am not sure I have ever found it.

A photo?

FF
Jim Rink (Fakeguy)
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Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 11:50 am:   

Fred...will take pic of mine this weekend and post...or at least what I think it is
RJ..thanks for pix...if I am not confused, it appears second from bottom is off the discharge muffler drain line...correct? If so, that is a handy place to put one. My aux tank set up is very similar to yours. Thank you
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Friday, November 07, 2008 - 10:06 pm:   

Jim,

I don't think you can get air from the muffler drain line since it is before the check valve.

I tried this once and it didn't work.

You can fill from there though but it is much slower than at the aux tank. I just use the aux tank for everything because it is so easy to get to and is clean.

RJ,

I can't tell the location of your 32 and 3 photos? Is this your rear wet tank?
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 1:54 am:   

Fred -

Here's a pic of the discharge muffler for you. It's basically looking up at the top of the engine compartment over the transmission. The line on the left is coming directly off the air compressor. The copper line that the quick disconnect coupler is near is the main air line going forward. The discharge muffler's drain line is what my rear air chuck is plumbed into. (This muffler is also referred to as a "ping tank", as it softens the pulses generated by the compressor.)

Discharge Muffler


Gus -

The two pics you're referring to can probably be answered by the pic in this post. Sorry if they weren't clear before - resizing them to fit BNO's format caused me to crop them a bit too much.

Filling from the rear will work - you just won't get any air into the aux. tank until the system reaches about 65 psi and the pressure regulator valve opens, just like if the coach's compressor is running. That's why filling from the front's faster - it fills the aux tank first, then starts "backfilling", if you will.

FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 3:49 pm:   

Thanks , Yes I found/ drain that , and 3 others fwd on pull chains.

Gunky oil blasts out , but its a GREAT antitheft device , leave it open and the coach will never air up.

Good for recovering New Yorkers.

FF
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2008 - 9:44 pm:   

RJ,

My drain line is vertical straight down from my muffler. Yours appears to be horizontal?

I don't see how a horizontal drain line can be as effective as a vertical. A vertical one will drain even with no air pressure.
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Monday, November 10, 2008 - 10:44 am:   

Gus -

It is horizontal. . . sort of.

Right off the bottom of the ping tank is a 45 elbow and then the first valve. This valve is close enough to the body that the handle just barely clears the panel above it. The line itself at this point is about 1" from the panel. As the line moves forward to the bulkhead, it slopes downward, so by the time it actually turns towards the ground, it's about 3" from the upper panel. Roughly a 2" drop over 24" or so.

Not as effective, I'm sure, as a straight south shot like your '04's, but at least it would allow gunk to dribble out slowly if left open. Of course, with air pressure behind it, that's a moot point.

I like Fred's idea of using the ping tank drain as an effective anti-theft device, too! Combinded with setting the rear run switches to "off", clever!!

FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)
Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
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Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 5:25 am:   

It seems like air-related topics could almost be a separate board?

Anyway, the deeper I dig the more mysteries I find. Today I discovered my ‘Bendix-Westinghouse System Guard Air Dryer.’ In smaller print it says: ‘Heavy Vehicle System group.’

The unit, which seems in pretty good shape, bears a sticker with installation instructions (it’s already installed so who cares?) but nothing about maintenance.

Anybody know if it needs to be cleaned, bled, petted, kicked…?

Does it require new filters or oil or any kind of routine maintenance – or do I just talk to it occasionally and hope it doesn’t get mad?

Thanks for any feedback.

Nellie Wilson
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 8:11 am:   

Anybody know if it needs to be cleaned, bled, petted, kicked…?


Most demand at least annual service .

FF
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
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Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 8:31 am:   

FF,
I think the discharge muffler is nothing more than a cast iron contanier with no valves, filter media or anything else inside of it. Only maintenence is daily draining when using the bus. Jack
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2008 - 4:42 pm:   

Jack -

Fred was responding to Nellie's question related to her "Bendix-Westinghouse System Guard Air Dryer", not the simple ping tank/discharge muffler on the GMs.

Nellie -

Fred's right, annual service is considered preventative maintenance on these things. Here's a link to the AD-9 dryer's service instructions on Bendix's website:

http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay.asp?documentID=5091

FWIW & HTH. . .

:-)

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