| Author | Message | ||
| Wayne Ellenburg (Wlnburg)
Registered Member Username: Wlnburg Post Number: 26 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 12.201.101.247  Rating: N/A |
I am hoping some of you "experts" can help a newby. It has finally cooled down enough to really get started on my 05 Eagle. My question is where do I start. I have been gathering info and know what I want to do, but don't have any idea about what sequence is the best. I know I will get several different ideas but would like to hear from you. Should I get the basement finished, paint, do the inside or start several areas or all at once? Your input will greatly appreciated. You can see where I am starting at http://home.mchsi.com/~ellenburg/ Your input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Ednj (Ednj)
Registered Member Username: Ednj Post Number: 206 Registered: 3-2003 Posted From: 67.85.237.82  Rating: N/A |
Put horizontal fairing strips in then take it to be spray foamed and trimmed, Then plywood the whole inside. | ||
| Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
Registered Member Username: Vivianellie Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 70.49.112.50 Rating: N/A |
Wayne – From what I’ve experienced, no matter what you decide to ‘do first,’ you’ll end up doing a bunch of things at once. Many of these things will be a direct result of what you ‘started first’. Like, say, you decide to do something practical – maybe a simple brake job? It’ll take a couple days, you figure. So you pull the first wheel and inadvertently strip some studs… or you notice a weather-checked brake line (or both). And then you see everything inside, and behind, the wheel well is rusty and yucky. So you fix all that and then you think, well heck, I’m not gonna cover up such a lovely job with this rusty old wheel. So you pull the tire and strip, grind, and sandblast that old wheel down to bare metal, treat it with anti-rust stuff, prime it and paint it and, probably – ‘cause you’re so into it by now – apply some clear coat as well. Or maybe, to save time, you just scout up some Alcoa Aluminums…? Either way, you realize you can’t do just ONE side, you gotta do the other. And then you realize you can’t do just one END, you gotta do BOTH ends. Keep things symmetrical, you know? Kinda like the old joke about draining the swamp. Hey, Wayne, by the time those new brakes go in, they’ll be worn out from the waiting. And it’s always the same, even for a simple lube job. A max 2-hour job, right? That’s what I thought too… and that was only three days ago. Grease fittings closed tighter than a nun’s you-know-what, old solidified grease in the joints, mismatched nipples requiring different sized nozzles – and all coated over with years of oil and road dust and rust (just surface, thank God). Too much muck for even the heat gun to penetrate… just caught the old grease afire. So, after two days of coaxing and cursing, finally decided to block the whole bus way up high and attack the entire undercarriage with a commercial steam pressure washer. At least now I can see where the fittings are (and see if they’re taking the grease). Of course, I’ll have to wait until tomorrow and everything dries out. And naturally, since it’s sitting up there nice and high and all spic and span, I’ll probably be unable to resist giving it a coat (or two) of industrial paint… yeah, like anyone’s gonna notice. So what I’m saying is this: Don’t worry about where you start first… it absolutely won’t matter. All that aside – and except for when I’m crying -I wouldn’t miss the experience for the world. I’d normally say ‘you’ll feel the same’ but I checked your website and saw you’ve got TWO of these beasts (which makes me wonder if you're a masochist or something?) Great Adventures to you, Nellie Wilson | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 384 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100  Rating: N/A |
Hi Wayne, Normally I would say to get it to the point so you can use it, even if it's not finished. But you have two of these birds, so that idea is out. I would take the time to do what is important to you first. Like Enj said, insulate the inside. I would go a step further and install some conduit for wire runs. This means you will have to have all of your electrical requirements and terminal locations figured out, then spay foam and trim it out. If you drop the ceiling you can have your runs there along with your heat/AC ducts. Do you have a floor plan figured out yet? You rellay need to do that first, so you will know where to put the conduit runs and any stub outs. Keep the 12v seperate from the 110v. Use proper sized wire when you make your runs. Nellie brought up some good points, whatever you do figure on, double the time you "Thought" it will take. Take lots and lots of pictures as you go. You will need them to refer to and also to show others who are contemplating on doing the same. Good Luck and Be Safe in all you do, Paul (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 581 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.35.55 Rating: N/A |
Wayne, you can get good ideas for floor plans from the guys on the Eagle board they will post photos for you,plus you can see a Eagle being hatched (frame only) just ask http://www.eaglesinternational.net good luck (Message edited by luvrbus on November 16, 2008) | ||
| Glenn Williams (Glenn)
Registered Member Username: Glenn Post Number: 174 Registered: 6-2006 Posted From: 216.163.57.189  Rating: N/A |
One thing not mentioned was how critical toilet placement is to floor layout. You need to have the toilet right over the black water tank, (some do put a small angle to the toilet plumbing where necessary, but most are a straight drop) so that ties your interior design to your baggage bay design. Don't rush with the design. Put tape on the floors, maybe use cardboard to mock up walls. Walk through this with your significant other (if applicable) and ask for their input. It's amazing what they think of that you didn't!  | ||
| George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6 Post Number: 616 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 207.231.75.253 Rating: N/A |
Wayne, Spray foam is the answer for silence and waterproofing as well as insulating qualities. HOWEVER, you don't want to do it until AFTER you have run all of your electrical conduit, installed the switch and outlet boxes, run the video and phone cables, your water and gas piping and venting, and all of your windows and skylights, etc. Start your construction in the rear, and work forward, as then you won't be carrying tools and materials over a finished floor. Good luck, George | ||
| Ian Giffin (Admin)
Board Administrator Username: Admin Post Number: 1128 Registered: 7-1997 Posted From: 24.239.13.27  Rating: N/A |
Hi Wayne, Dunno if you have, but give a thorough read through the rest of this bulletin board, specifically the Articles of Interest. We've been accused, happily, of catering to the novice conversion enthusiast so I'm sure you'll find some interesting ideas on where to star right here. Ian www.busnut.com | ||
| Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member Username: Zubzub Post Number: 29 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 64.229.54.251 Rating: N/A |
make a thorough floor plan, elevations, wiring and plumbing layout. this is the same as building/renovating a home/condo. Fail to Plan, Plan to Fail. | ||
| James Robinson (Jjrbus)
Registered Member Username: Jjrbus Post Number: 171 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 99.206.24.181 Rating: N/A |
Arm yourself with a digital camera, ruler/tape measure and notebook. Go look at other conversions and ask questions. At all times aim to keep your conversion usable even if it is tin can camping. The continued use of bus keeps it interesting and gives you new ideas. | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 873 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.54.29.215  Rating: N/A |
I think the correct URL for the Eagle website is www.eaglesinternational.com (no s on the end of international. Jack | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 583 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.35.55 Rating: N/A |
Thats funny Jack you are not doing any better at it than I am lol maybe one of the Eagles guys will get it right for us but I do like your site link | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 385 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
Eagles International There you go Clifford and Jack. I think I finally figured out how to post this stuff on I@n's site. Wheew (Message edited by dreamscape on November 16, 2008) | ||
| Ednj (Ednj)
Registered Member Username: Ednj Post Number: 208 Registered: 3-2003 Posted From: 67.85.237.82 Rating: N/A |
Wayne, Spray foam is the answer for silence and waterproofing as well as insulating qualities. HOWEVER, you don't want to do it until AFTER you have run all of your electrical conduit, installed the switch and outlet boxes, run the video and phone cables, your water and gas piping and venting, and all of your windows and skylights, etc. Put horizontal fairing strips in then take it to be spray foamed and trimmed, Then plywood the whole inside. Windows and skylights are a good thought; everything else could be done after words without burying any wires, piping or boxes. Don’t want to overwhelm with all that thinking at once. Wayne, Go to the top of the page and use the search feature to search the archives. | ||
| George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6 Post Number: 617 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 207.231.75.253 Rating: N/A |
Ed, Have I missed something here? "...everything else could be done [afterwards]without burying any wires piping or boxes. Don't want to overwhelm with all that thinking at once." I will be the first to admit that planning the utilities in a bus is far more complex than planning a house. Obviously, you don't have to plan for low voltage, inverters, house batteries, generators, and their exhaust and venting, holding tanks, propane, fresh water pump, shore power connections, etc. in a house. Space isn't such an issue, and wall space for wires and pipes is at least 3 1/2 inches. You don't have to put your toilet over a bay in a house either. My question is where is he going to run his wires and pipes after he has applied 3 or so inches of foam, fairing (furring?) strips and plywood to the outside walls of his bus? Is he then going to run his wires and pipes on the inside of the plywood, and fur out into his precious space and build another wall? Not burying wires sounds like Wiremold to me...? A nasty question for which I am sorry, but why is it easier to plan the plumbing and wiring AFTER the bus is insulated? ? George | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 380 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.50.69 Rating: N/A |
George...I dont think it is at all a "nasty" question...I'm with you. IF he has the room to do it prior to insulation. In my case I did not, but certainly would have given the choice. And a big AMEN to nearly everything else that has been said...and by all means, as stated, keep it useable and enjoy it as you can. One never knows when that is no longer possible. The Lord has a way of intervening from time to time.  . Best wishes. RCB '64 Crown Supercoach (HWC) | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 542 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 69.19.14.21 Rating: N/A |
Although its a bit more work , I prefer to run all pipes and wiring around the insulated shell, not buried in the walls . Custom Coach had a simple trough that the wires dropped into , behind a valance , that allowed unlimited updating with no effort. Most plumbing items , HW heaters , ect need replacement eventually , so by putting in the plumbing after much is built , the ability to service anything is assured. Esp if you have an accidental hard freeze and need to replumb a big bunch. Works for me, FF | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1236 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.110.9  Rating: N/A |
Forget all that advice until you do a thorough inspection of the under framing for body rot also the wall framing needs inspected. If you've already done this, great. Too many people start a conversion only to find out they have serious rust issues that can be cost and time prohibitive to deal with. Otherwise, get the smaller issues that will make it drivable safely. If the engine is tired, you can still use it while you do the conversion process; just be aware of the costs associated with main vehicle component rebuilding.Taking it for a ride once in a while during the conversion is a great motivator.Sometimes going to a big RV dealer or show and touring the various models can be helpful. Also laying out a floorplan and moving the items around helps. One very good thing to do is to get a lot of large cardboard boxes and cut them up and make full scale mockups of bath,toilet, ref, bed/s, couches, chairs, dinette, partitions, doors, etc. Takes some time but is fantastic to work out the plan and see what it will really be like to move around in the planned conversion. You can usually get component dimensions on the manufacturer's websites. If you have a family or spouse/ sig. other, you may be able to get them more enthused helping with this aspect. You may be able to get large boxes from Lowes or HD or any appliance dealer. Guys on here are very helpful with don'ts and why's or whynots. | ||
| niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500 Post Number: 882 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 71.180.124.221 Rating: N/A |
Wayne - right now I'd be making a list and checking it twice - that is a list of materials you will need to complete your bus - then shortly thereafter I'd head out to the Elkhart area and start shopping for supplies - they will probably never be any cheaper than they will be next year and fuel is low enough to make the trip very profitable - I estimate that you can pay 10 cents on the dollar or less for a lot of big ticket items - if you save enough $$$$$ you will be able to finish your bus even in a bad economy - no doubt building materials will drop considerably and deals will coming on them as building supply co's go out of business - JMHO | ||
| Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
Registered Member Username: Vivianellie Post Number: 23 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 70.49.114.174  Rating: N/A |
Hey, Wayne - Where the heck is Elkhart? If it's anywhere south of here (Vermont) I'm pulling the pick and heading... Nellie Wilson | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 395 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 75.93.55.100 Rating: N/A |
Elkhart Indiana, probably the best place in the world to fill our buses with great stuff and at really good prices. I haven't been there but there are several places that specialize in RV items from companies closing doors or just plain overstock. I really want to go there some day and pack a trailer full and have fun! Bontrager Surplus is one that comes to mind. Head south Nellie and stay warm! | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 878 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 71.54.29.215 Rating: N/A |
Nellie, Elkhart, Indiana area (including exteme south Michigan) is the Bus Converters Mecca. Bontragers near White Pigeon, Michigan; RV Surplus & Salvage, in Elkhart; Grabers near Constatine and several other places have everything you didn't know you just have to have for your "baby". If you get all the way South to Florida, come to Bussin' 09 December 29-January 1, 2009. Should be about 100 coaches here. Jack | ||
| Keith Wood (Ft6)
Registered Member Username: Ft6 Post Number: 57 Registered: 8-2008 Posted From: 174.144.230.88 Rating: N/A |
Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer choice. If you put the wiring in the walls, you can't add to the electrical system without tearing stuff up. If you do the walls first, you have to run exposed conduit. I'm running exposed conduit, because I'm pretty sure that I'll want to add stuff in a couple of years. |