| Author | Message | ||
| Jason Simons (Bigblock01)
Registered Member Username: Bigblock01 Post Number: 20 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 209.177.247.193  Rating: N/A |
Can I run a car stereo and about 3 sterro amps off of the same voltage reduction system that works the headlights and other 12 volt stuff in the bus. I ha e run power drivers seat and cb off of it already looks as thought p/o had a power invertor to run video system hook up so I us that for the power I'm using now. Just wandering I don't want mess up the unit running headlights. | ||
| Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
Registered Member Username: Vivianellie Post Number: 122 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 70.49.113.122  Rating: N/A |
Jason - For starters, you haven't said what "voltage reduction system" your PO used? But from my limited experience, I suggest you not rely on anything the PO installed... unless it's obvious he (or she) knew what they were doing. I'd say leave what works alone and develop your own power scheme for what you want to add. Better yet (time and budget allowing) just start fresh. Example: One of my POs installed a resistor (similar to the 70s Chrysler) and another (or the same?) installed the highly vauneted Vanner Equalizer. Neither of which works and both of which were incorrecly wired. Lots of these POs knew just enough to get themselves (us) into trouble. (Luckily, I know zip so I trust people that do). Nellie Wilson | ||
| Jason Simons (Bigblock01)
Registered Member Username: Bigblock01 Post Number: 21 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 209.177.247.193 Rating: N/A |
I have a large 24 to 12 volt convertor in the battery box not sure what brand it is about about 18 to 20 inchs long and 8 to 10 inchs wide I'll have to look and see what make it is when I get home. I do know that it is a convertor system seems to be a good size one it take up almost all of the area above the batteries. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 348 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 69.250.38.183  Rating: N/A |
Jason, I'm as famous as Nellie for not knowing much about those electrictron thingies running around in the wiring, but isn't the only way to get a good handle on your question to get the numbers on the output of your converter and the load drawn by your total of the electric devices (with a suitable offset for "not 100% efficient", any start-up loads, and the general philosophy of not running anything electrical too close to the very max of it's ratings, etc.)? | ||
| larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc Post Number: 204 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 207.200.116.13 Rating: N/A |
If you are one of the people who strip the over the road blowers out the easy remedy would be to switch it to 12 volt. Buy another starter and change the alternator. End of issues. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 743 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.143 Rating: |
Larry, Changing a coach from 24-volt to 12-volt is not as simple as changing just the starter and alternator (if one even considers those tasks simple). You'd have to replace all the lights, most of the gauges, all the relays, and most of the wire, which will now be several gauges too small for the current on a 12-volt system. This is especially true for the big cables (batteries, starter, alternator, inverter or converter if any, etc., etc.), but it also applies to headlights (unless already 12-volt), stop and turn signals, and even marker lamps. You might get away with existing marker, tattle-tale, panel lamp, and stop-turn-tail wiring if you replace all the incandescents with LEDs, but that's a pretty spendy thing to do just to do away with 24 volts. On top of that, you'd need different wiper motors, defrost blowers, tattle-tale buzzers, windshield washer pump -- the list goes on and on. When you're all done, you'd have a 12-volt system, which, IMO, is inferior to a 24-volt system in most respects, and it would cost you a bundle to boot. Cheaper and easier just to put in a Vanner and be done with it. FWIW. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 638 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 69.19.14.44 Rating: N/A |
If you are going to be spending $$$ there are converters (Vanner) and equalizers. The converter is the way to do it. FF | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 744 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 68.18.13.27  Rating: N/A |
Isn't "Vanner" a well known equalizer? Most bus ops removed the Vanners from their buses, due to poor performance and service. A converter is a better choice, imnsho. | ||
| Jason Simons (Bigblock01)
Registered Member Username: Bigblock01 Post Number: 22 Registered: 6-2008 Posted From: 209.177.247.193 Rating: N/A |
Ok thanks to all. I'm not going to change bus to 12 volt. I still use road a/c and heat. Futher maore not into all that wireing. I still haven't been home to see what size convertor is on the bus but I am sure that is what is there now. |
