| Author | Message | ||
| Merlin Bennett (Mobennett) (205.188.209.11)
Rating: N/A |
Hi Guys I am considering using a the manual leveling system as outlined on this BB and would be interested in your opinions, pro or con. I have searched the archives and understand there are a few conversions with this system on them. Would be particularly interested in hearing from you folks. I have a '78 RTS, which has independent front suspension, and wish to bypass the auto leveling system completely to simplify and reduce air leaks. | ||
| jmaxwell (66.42.92.15) Rating: N/A |
IMHO I would fix the leaks and add a manual over-ride system, keeping the auto system. The manual system is great for leveling up when parked but it is nothing but a big guess for the road, whereas, properly set, the auto system constantly adjusts for conditions and load. | ||
| Jim Stacy (12.87.108.79)
Rating: N/A |
Leveling valves are the main source of suspension leaks. Very few will go more than a week without leaning, most won't make it overnight. A pain in the butt when camping. My all manual system sits indefinitely (several months) without a twitch. After 52,000 trouble free miles (including Alaska), I wouldn't change a thing. A conversion doesn't have 40 people getting on and off hourly. Your weight doesn't change. Auto leveling is great for a passenger coach; a pain for a conversion. I use a 4 valve system I bought from Gary Nickerson at Coach Services. Works great, but I rarely touch it. Fourty five pounds all around gives factory ride height. No attitude change noticeable with tankage changes and if you are not too picky, most parking spots don't need re-leveling either. Texas for 4 months, yes, but overnight probably not. If you aren't falling out of bed, the frig will probably work OK. Auto valves just aren't needed in a conversion. BTW on an 11,000 mile Alaska trip this Summer, we had no problems. I couldn't say the same for a 6 month old $500,000 Country Coach traveling with us. It had failures on a daily basis with its' auto-everything 10,000 circuit systems. What a pain. It's a good thing my 49 year old 4104 was trouble free since I was busy almost daily working on the Country Coach. Simpler is better. Jim Stacy | ||
| NFBC (216.128.137.242) Rating: N/A |
you sead it all. Fred North Florida Bus Conversion | ||
| Bus Jock (198.81.16.168)
Rating: N/A |
Merlin, I can agree 100% with Jim Stacy. Our experience is similar, in 3 years full time and 70,000 miles it has worked perfectly. We would not change from our manual leveling system. Jock Fugitt | ||
| Jayjay (65.134.220.205) Rating: N/A |
I can't imagine going back to the auto system on my 4905! Be sure and tighten all of the "old" fittings as you install the new tubing. I put a "tee" in the line feeding the new manifold for the air valves, and put a 1/2hp 110vac air compressor on mine. Operates off a 24vdc relay so I don't have to run 110v up under my dash. Now I don't have to start the engine if I want to fine tune the level of the coach. This happens about once a month. ALSO... the other benefit is that if you want to work under the bus, you can "pump-it-up" with the air bags, put your safety blocks beneath it, and slide under with lot's of room to work. (While you're under there spray the bags with a healthy dose of Armor-All.)Pull the blocks, let the air out, and you're done!. Wait 'til you have to sit for two hours along side the road for a traffic accident, with the coach at about a 15 deg. list to starbord. Push the right side buttons, and voila' you're level. Makes cooking a breeze, since the omlett doen't slide to the far edge of the skillett. Cheers...JJ | ||
| R.C. Bishop (128.123.62.235)
Rating: N/A |
Jayjay, et al...could you define exactly how you went about the manual system leaving the auto....or, please direct me to the thread that explained it in the past...I've hunted, but don't find (comprehend?) much  Thanx, RCB | ||
| FAST FRED (65.58.186.165) Rating: N/A |
I haven't done it yet but HAVE figured how to have the best of both worlds. The orig leveling system is excellent , after the leveling valves are replaced , not hard or expensive. The 40 year old valves will leak down , but once replaced are fine. Then instead of using the orig link between the coach and the operating arm ( about the size of a hunk of coathanger) use a Heavy duty locking push pull cable. These come in strong sizes and will surely take the load (a few pounds). AS an experiment I will do the front first, so I can get some degree of leveling, but it should work on all 3 valves easily. The rears will be adjusted in the rear , so if we go over really high camber dirt road the bride can just go back & give us another 3 or 4 inches of clearence. The ride will be exactally stock , the loading ability will not be compromised , and the ability to return to factory spec will be almost instant. The push pull cables I need are about $80 (3/8 core) for 10 ft. So I'm still looking for a better source. Lots easier than 12 electric solenoids and a mile of wiring, plus plumbing. FAST FRED | ||
| John Rigby (63.185.81.253)
Rating: N/A |
Jim Stacey Could I trouble you for your phone # as I am going to install Gary,s system on my 4104,and would like some input from you. John e-mail tamara4104@cs.com | ||
| Jayjay (65.134.221.252) Rating: N/A |
Okay here goes... all af the equipment is installed around the driver's area, and all tubing is 1/4" DOT with appropriate fittings from a truck shop. (you can find fittings at Lowe's/ Home Depot also) I put a "tee" in the output from the Pressure Protection Valve (in the driver's storage area) this is near the front air tank. This line goes to a small 5 port manifold purchased from Northern Tools($9.95?) from the manifold I ran a tube to the inlet of 4 truck airseat valves ($16.95 ea.) from each valve I ran a tube to each pair of airbags at each wheel. Study the diagram for the front (4905) since they have a strange layout. I installed a 1/2HP 110v air compressor, regulated at 100psi above my genset. This is controlled by a 24vdc relay (keeps the 110vac out of the dashboard)a switch on the driver's sideboard turns it on when I'm hooked to shore power. The output from the compressor "tee's" in to the tube from the Pressure Protection Valve to the manifold. Makes no difference if I'm using the bus air or shore air, all I have to do is "push-in" on a valve to raise that corner, or "pull-out" to let it down. The seat valves are spring loaded to "center-off" and are easy to use. Any truck shop or most auto parts places can get them for you. It takes a long day to run the tubing (color code or number them) and hook up the base system. Another for the small 110vac compressor. HTH Cheers...JJ | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.62.200)
Rating: N/A |
Thanx, Jayjay. Very informative and clear. I don't have a GM, but can do a thing similar, I think. RCB | ||
| Doug Dickinson (Dougd470) (65.161.188.11)
Rating: N/A |
Idea for those that know (and I don't, so please don't laugh). My idea (not original - I saw it somewhere) is to use air pressure regulators instead of valves. This would give an indication of the relative height (based on how much pressure) and will also keep things stable in the event of a small leakdown over time (OK, a long time if everything is tight). The regulators are cheap and have guages to let me know the pressure (I don't think a bag should be at 120lbs of pressure). To build in a check for leak down, put a small valve in line and close it to see if it leaks down over time. Just my thoughts. Whatcha think? |