Bus Shop Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Edit Profile

BNO BBS - BNO's Bulletin Board System » THE ARCHIVES » Year 2002 » September 2002 » Bus Shop « Previous Next »

Author Message
MC - Iv (24.83.235.106)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 4:33 am:   

I have recently finished pouring concrete for the foundation walls for my bus shop (50'x28'). This will give me a dry place to work on the conversion of my MC-9.
I plan to finish the walls and roof and then pour the concrete floor last. I would like to put in a pit and I was wondering what size would be practical? Should it run full length or just half way?
Anyone have any thoughts on the interior in general?
Iv.
Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 4:01 pm:   

Why not go down to the local truck repair garage and see what they have? My best guess would be to have the pit run full length of the garage with room to walk around it on both ends.

Having said that however, this may create foundation concerns since you have already poured the wall foundations. You might have to limit the length of the pit because the compaction limits of your soil.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but the pit size/length should have been determined BEFORE you poured the wall foundations. Also understand the pit concrete will have to very reinforced to handle the axle weight of a coach (truck?) Good luck.
Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 7:51 pm:   

I want to apologize for the above answer I just gave. It was inappropriate and I am sorry. Sometimes my mouth (fingerboard) engages before my mind is in gear.

Obviously you already figured out all this stuff before breaking ground on your dedicated coach conversion building. Perhaps the pit should be as long as the coach? Thanks.
Chas (63.14.144.50)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 8:03 pm:   

Since you asked.....
If I were running a full service shop where time is money I would put in a full length pit.
How much time do you think you'll spend under there?
It wouldn't be too hard to turn the bus around if you needed to work on the other end.
Also more usable shop space when bus is out with a half pit. FWIW.
Luke Bonagura (Lukeatuscoach) (12.90.6.113)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 8:11 pm:   

Hi Chas:
In our shop, the pits are longer than a 40 foot coach with built in steps at each end.
Why???
In case of an emergency, our guys can get out on either end or in the event of a disaster, rescue personnel can get in from either end.
But, remember, I am talking about a commercial operation, although problems can occur anywhere and at any time.
Just some additional thought on the matter.
LUKE at US COACH
Peter (Sdibaja) (64.165.8.243)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 8:29 pm:   

I plan to build a bus garage some day soon. I will go for a 45 or 50 foot pit, and it will have a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" ledge along both sides... that will take 4x planks so it will be fully covered when not in use, and driveable for a car or lighter truck... that is how us farm boys always built them.

Like Luke says, long enough to exit on either end... not just safety, convenience and sometimes you just can not fire it up and turn it around.

Also, it needs to be 5 1/2 feet deep, more if you are tall, so you can walk and not leave skin on the bottom of the bus. Then use a sturdy short platform when you need to get up into things. A shelf on the wall is great

Just my view from down below...
Peter
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (64.114.233.167)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 10:23 pm:   

Iv, you might think about drainage issues, such as rainwater or snowmelt going into the pit or away from it.

Also, the Jiffy lubes that I have seen make good use of a webbed pit cover to reduce the chance of someone taking a bad fall into the pit while no vehicle is over it. It's rigged up so they just slide it out of the way when they need to.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
MC - Iv (24.83.235.106)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 11:09 pm:   

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and ideas. I did consider the option of a pit when I designed my foundation and hopefully prepared it accordingly. Luckily, the soil is VERY hard packed clay and will give an excellent base but also very hard to dig. I also thought of the safety issue and the ability to get out in an emergency. I like the idea of a full length pit so maybe I'll start thinking in that direction.
Thanks, Iv.
Larry Goodhew (Lgoodhew) (148.78.247.10)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2002 - 1:41 pm:   

When I built my shop last year in preparation for getting a bus, I put a crawler pit in the floor. I think it was someone on this list who gave me the idea, sorry don't remember who it was.

I lay down on my crawler and put my arms up to a comfortable working height. Then I measured the distance from the floor. Subtracted an average under-vehicle height and that left me with the depth of my pit. For me that was 19 inches. I made a ledge that was 1 1/8" deep and cut a couple of sheets of 1 1/8" plywood for a cover. Wouldn't hold up a car but keeps me and the kids out of it! It only took me about 3 hours to dig and form it (the ground is not hard to dig were I am at). It was also very inexpensive to build as there was a minimal amount of extra concrete and not a lot of strengthening that had to be done for a wall only 15 inches tall!

I made it 16 feet long but I think I will cut the floor and add 8 more feet so I can get halfway under a bus.

This may not work for everyone but it has been wonderful for me. I have used it several times working on cars and my old RV and it was great.

In fact I just used it two weeks ago to change the engine in my car. (hint: Replace the radiator cap after checking fluid levels! I doubt I will forget that again!) For this exercise the pit that was shorter than my shop was helpful as I could push the car onto the non-pit area and use the engine hoist to get the engine in and out.

An inexpensive way to skin the cat.

Larry
Buswarrior (Buswarrior) (64.229.212.251)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, September 21, 2002 - 9:36 pm:   

Hello all.

Something to remember with a pit: combustion fumes have a habit of collecting down in there.

And you will find your propane all down in the pit if you have a leak in the garage, since propane is heavier than air.

Best to rough in some duct work right to the bottom before you do the cement pour so you can add a fan that won't ignite propane.

Also, it is convenient to make facility for a drain and sump pit. It really is easier to clean out the pit and garage occassionally using the hose. Your shop-vac will thank you!


Building codes are pretty nasty about pits.

I'm not condoning this behaviour, but....

I've heard of some who have the pit walls and floor poured first, cure, and then cover the pit with plywood, pour the floor over top. Garage floor is nice a flat during building inspection, then saw through the thin layer to expose the pit.

Your morals and value system are between you and who you believe is in charge of your destiny.

I would just suggest installing a fan in the pit so you don't blow up or poison yourself, and thus, have more time to get right with your God for sins comitted during and affiliated with the bus conversion process!

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess) (65.130.18.194)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Saturday, September 21, 2002 - 11:44 pm:   

I wondered when I saw the suggestion of a creeper pit, why not just get some oak blocks and jack up the bus to work on it.

My bus can be safely jacked up at four points with all the wheels off the floor.

An air-hydraulic jack can be had for about $150. Buy it locally. Some bargain ones quit on first use. Most are Chinese, and look alike but are not all the same. We have a new tool store here in Lakeland that has good Chinese tools and he stands behind them.

Oak blocks can be cut from sections of tree trunk from trees removed.
We need compression strength so even a lighting struck tree will do. They also make jack stands that will support a bus and I have a pair, but I still do not trust them.

I can see the desire to stand up and work, but how often will it be necessary. I think if I ever get around to building a bus shop I will just go for a higher roof.
Henry R. Bergman, Jr. (Henryofcj) (63.224.197.10)

Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!)

Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 5:12 pm:   

Actually the notion of employing sneaky means to get what you want without the need of official permits and stuff feels very good to me.

On a somewhat related note, are you going to tile the concrete with the traditional black and white square flooring? That would look very cool.

Add Your Message Here
Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration