| Author | Message | ||
| Buddy Tennison (Buddyten)
Registered Member Username: Buddyten Post Number: 76 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 207.68.237.63 Rating: N/A |
Hey Guys The fan bearing is going out on my Eagle. How hard is this to replace for a DIY? I know the radiator has to come out (obviously , DUH). How much coolant will come out (need to know how big a container I will need to drain it in). Are there any special tricks or tips that will make it go easier. Is this a pillow block type bearing or one pressed in to a pulley, fan, etc? Will I need any type of bearing puller, etc? Just want to have everything ready and available when I get in there. Also, while that far along, I want to go ahead and put in a new air compressor. With the rad, etc out of the way, will it be accessible or will I still need to go in from the access door to do it? Look forward to all those wonderful tips that I know will be forthcoming. | ||
| Buddy Tennison (Buddyten)
Registered Member Username: Buddyten Post Number: 77 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 207.68.237.63 Rating: N/A |
Also forgot to ask. How much antifreeze is recommended to put back. I want to go with new antifreeze and water, and need to know how much and what type, brand, etc is best. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 662 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.92.133 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, you can reach everything from the radiator side with it removed.There will about 10 or 12 gals of coolant to deal with.They do have pillar bock bearing and are standard from any bearing supply.If you have a fan clutch check it close that is were the problem is most of the time.You will still have to reach the compressor from the top inside your coach. good luck | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 663 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.92.133 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, I found the best buy on antifreeze to be at a Frightliner dealer their Alliance brand meets DD requirements or you can go with the extended life for about 20 bucks a gal you will need around 10 to 12 gals for a 50/50 mix depending on your radiators size.I buy water from a vending machine done by the RO process when you are finshed check your system with test strip balance it out with chemicals from Napa and you are good to go (Message edited by luvrbus on March 09, 2009) | ||
| Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
Registered Member Username: Mel_4104 Post Number: 114 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 64.180.196.209 Rating: N/A |
the best way to refill the system is use the a,f, from your detroit deisel dealer as is made for DD engines and use only distilled water from your local store that sell it, DO NOT use tap water and i would not use water from a vending machine as i have seen their filter systems and they do not remove the junk that eats the rad and the block and other parts that it comes in contact with. this also applies to your cars and pickups. use real good type of A.F.distilled water as above as tape water and the water from vending machine just love AL rads and heater cores plus the AL block and water pumps. it only takes 2 years to eat out an AL rad as one of my kids found out trying to save money. the new rad cost nearly $500 but them do it your way as it is your vec or bus. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 664 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.92.133 Rating: N/A |
Mel Freightliner is a DD dealer both are owned by the same company and he can use tap water all he has to do is get the balance right and is not that hard to do.show me one place in a DD manual where it states use distilled water it does say do not use ditch water ps you have to balance the p/h on distilled water also good luck | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 665 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.92.133 Rating: N/A |
Buddy, any low silicate antireeze with a Ethylene Glycol base will work for you. I just made reference to Freightliner because they have a good price.FWIW a water filter from Napa for a 100 bucks is a good investment for keeping your system in balance.I just could never see using distilled water then adding minerals back to balance a system but everyone does it their way good luck | ||
| David Dulmage (Daved)
Registered Member Username: Daved Post Number: 235 Registered: 12-2003 Posted From: 142.46.199.30  Rating: N/A |
Anti-freeze, intended for diesel engines, meeting DD requirements and distilled or de-ionized water, both available from an auto supply store are the way to go. DD doesn't recommend adding additional corrosion inhibitors to approved type antifreeze/water mixes. Complete DD requirements can be found at http://www.detroitdiesel.com/Public/brochures/7SE298.pdf. DaveD | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 666 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.92.133 Rating: N/A |
keep on reading David you will find out they are talking about the pre- charged extend life anti freeze DD sell for over 20 bucks a gal red in color but they sell the green I just bought 2 cases. I have the DD bible that came with my 92 series and I follow it very close. The 2 strokes do not have the major cavation problem like with the 60 series good luck (Message edited by luvrbus on March 09, 2009) | ||
| Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 65 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.235.190  Rating: N/A |
alternative sources to distilled water are clean rain water (collected from a clean roof and not downwind from a major pollution source/acid rain) and the condensate from your air conditioner (again not contaminated by the surfaces it contacts while condensing on) . Testing everything for at the least ph will better ensure maximum life,(balance against the cost of doing it the wrong way). | ||
| Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 66 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.235.190 Rating: N/A |
and to answer at least one of your questions 50% mix gives the best heat transfer results and is considered the normal ratio of mix | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 720 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.9.16 Rating: N/A |
"alternative sources to distilled water are clean rain water (collected from a clean roof and not downwind from a major pollution source/acid rain)" This water MUST be filtered as all rain has "condensation nuclei" (AKA dirt) that lets the water droplet form. Most Mfg require 35% Antifreez as a minimum , more is for lower temp operation protection.. Antifreez only has 5/8 the heat transfer ability of plain old water so in hot weather less is more. But some engines need the SCA in diesel (not car) antifreez to stop the cylinders from cavitating small holes. IF the cylinder is in a full liner , cheap car antifreez or plain water with a rust inhibitor , water pump lube is fine.Bare cylinders require genuine diesel antifreez . FF | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1361 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.110.9  Rating: N/A |
Nalcool or equivalent will aid in heat transfer. If you have access to one of those blue plastic 55 gal drums and a sawzall, they can be cut down to clear underbody and make a great coolant catch basin. | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 416 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.55.228.218  Rating: N/A |
Chessie? How did we get on the subject of anti-freeze? I thought we had a bad bearing on a fan in an eagle LOL gomer | ||
| Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 76 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.235.190 Rating: N/A |
Thanks for the addendum to my coolant mix comments FF. I was thinking of higher pressurized cooling systems (10to15 psi system) when I said 50/50 mix , referring to boil over protection which is well above the critical temperature that our jimmies can tolerate and therefore the rule of thumb may be less relevant to this application. Concentrations higher are not recommended as the fluid heat transfer rate will be reduced to unacceptable levels. Not referring to thermal transfer properties of the transfer medium , but the entire system potential. Water does in fact have better heat transfer potential that ethylene glycol as long as it isn't starting to "boil" on the hottest surfaces. Yes the idea is to filter rain water or A/C condensate as it is never clean when it falls through dirty air. I let it sit to settle the larger particles out and then run it through old drinking water filters. Details are generally prudent to success. Marv. I preferred onion rings to cheesies until I read the label and realized what I was eating, now I stick to crow ??? or uhm I mean , Buddies second question (2nd posting from top)was inquiring about coolant, if I understood correctly! | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1515 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.122.222  Rating: N/A |
It would be prudent for snowbird busnuts to have the proper antifreeze mix in the coach at all times to protect the coach from "at home" winter conditions. You cannot plan for whatever reason the coach unexpectedly spends the winter at home, or must head home, in distracted conditions, or that the one who makes these adjustments is suddenly out of the picture. Or, we just plain forget. Cheap protection for the system! happy coaching! buswarrior |