Author |
Message |
Robert Munrow (Bob_munrow)
Registered Member Username: Bob_munrow
Post Number: 5 Registered: 2-2005 Posted From: 71.186.100.211
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 10:01 am: | |
I had my Alternator/Generator rebuilt because I didn't feel it was putting out. It worked just super and then I was driving and all of a sudden my volt meter dropped off and the no charge light came on. I, naturally went back to the rebuilder. He checked the alternater bypassing the regulator and it charged wide open.We noticed that there was a wire busted at the regulater. Great that is the problem. I took the coach home and repaired the connection. It charged for abut ten seconds, excessivly, and then went back to the same no charge condition. Would that sound like the regulater? I am taking it off to take it to the rebuilder, but is there some kind of a breaker or something in the system that would shut it down tempoarily |
marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer
Post Number: 451 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.55.197.237
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 10:32 am: | |
we need to know what kind of coach you have first and then we can get some answers from the seasoned veterans. LOL gomer |
Robert Munrow (Bob_munrow)
Registered Member Username: Bob_munrow
Post Number: 6 Registered: 2-2005 Posted From: 71.186.100.211
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 12:38 pm: | |
Sorry about that. It is an Eagle Model 10 1981 model year. I'm trying to figure it out and I think there must be a solenoid or something powered by the ignition switch and allowing current to flow to the regulator. The regulator has a 10 guage wire running to it and there is no way that that large of a wire is powered at the switch, too much amperage. According to tracing wires, it looks like it might be in the back electrical panel. I realized that the drivers blower stopped operating about the same time and it didn't use to come on till after I had air pressure. I think it is all tied togrther. I thought about running a 12 volt positive directly to the pos. post on the regulator to test it, but not sure if I should. I think with the ignition switch on there should be battery volts on the pos post on regulator. thanks Bob |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Registered Member Username: Daved
Post Number: 239 Registered: 12-2003 Posted From: 142.46.199.30
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 4:26 pm: | |
Buses typically have an interlock so they don't begin to charge and don't provide heat until they have built up air pressure. Perhaps the problem is with this interlock. FWIW DaveD |
Robert Munrow (Bob_munrow)
Registered Member Username: Bob_munrow
Post Number: 7 Registered: 2-2005 Posted From: 71.186.100.211
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 9:04 pm: | |
Dave: Do you have any idea where I would look for this interlock and how I would diagnose it. It really sounds like that is my problem. It must be an air powered solenoid or something. Thanks for any ideas you can give Bob |
Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape
Post Number: 481 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 64.40.209.3
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 10:10 pm: | |
Robert, Do you have an electrical schematic for your Eagle? If not I would recommend you to get one. I have an 01 and would not leave home without it. The voltage regulator on mine is adjustable, it may be set too high. You might get more answers on your Eagle problem by joining our group, www.eaglesinternational.net I suggest this because there are some Eagle folk that would be more familiar with your Model 10. Stop by and check us out. ~Paul~ |
David Dulmage (Daved)
Registered Member Username: Daved
Post Number: 240 Registered: 12-2003 Posted From: 142.46.199.30
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 8:32 am: | |
Robert, I have an MCI, but I'll check my manuals and see what I can find out. DaveD |
Alan Baker (Alan_baker)
Registered Member Username: Alan_baker
Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 72.214.92.222
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 8:45 am: | |
In the front ele panel, usually in the center you will find a rheostat. Maybe as thick as a pencile. It has an adjustable slider on it. Either slide the adjustment all the way to the top or jump it out. I think this will solve your problem. Why it comes from the front is a mystery. What it does is send 12 volts to the altinator to energize it. All alts need a shot of 12v to remind them what they are supposed to do. Worked for me Alan |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 815 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 10:52 am: | |
Bob, Your second post starts to explain your problem. All of these type of alternator/regulator combinations need switched battery voltage applied to the regulator to work. This is because the regulator needs to know: 1. What the system voltage is, so it can put out the right amount of field current. 2. Needs power to provide field current, and 3. The regulator doesn't know whether the engine is running or not, so if it had power to it continuously, it would turn on full field current trying to get charging voltage out of a shut off engine, and run the batteries down overnight. So, the positive terminal of the regulator is connected to power THROUGH THE MASTER SWITCH SOMEHOW, so it only has power when the master switch is on. Then the regulator must be properly grounded so it can determine what the system voltage actually is, and adjust the alternator field current accordingly. Field current will be less than 10 amps, period. As mentioned above, many buses have an interlock to prevent charging until air pressure is sufficient to properly tension the belts, on air tensioned belt drives. You'll need a voltmeter or a test light to diagnose your problem. With the master on, eng dead, you must have almost 12 Volts, or a bright test light, between the positive or bat terminal of the reg, and the ground terminal. (I think your bus is 12 V?) The blower may be interlocked to not operate with no charge. If you can, drive the bus to the rebuilder, and let him diagnose the entire system. I am of the opinion that you had a good alternator repaired, so get a manual, to stop chasing your tail! A wire burned off the reg sounds like too much current, which could indicate a ground in the field wire between the reg and the alt. This could be, or have been, hard on the reg, or a fuse/breaker supplying reference voltage. George (Message edited by george_mc6 on May 06, 2009) |
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus
Post Number: 695 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.31.224.206
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 5:12 pm: | |
Bob, check the wire in the back panel it has a relay.There is no interlock on a Eagle,turn your switch on if there is no power to regulator there is a wire broke and most of the time it is in the rear panel good luck |
Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape
Post Number: 498 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 64.40.215.214
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, May 21, 2009 - 6:42 am: | |
Have you found your problem yet? |