| Author | Message | ||
| Karl VanShellenbeck (Kvan)
Registered Member Username: Kvan Post Number: 24 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 66.68.82.97  Rating: N/A |
It has been brought to my attention that not all detroit diesels coat their tow vehicles in oil when on the road. I am going to get in there and clean up the area but are there known problem areas to look for on these engines. I am relatively sure that my bus is equipped with some sort of tanks that catch oil vapors from the engine. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 777 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.194.80.204 Rating: N/A |
The problem with oil leaks is that unless a specific failed part (bad seal) can be identified and replaced , the leaks are wide spread. The problem comes from decades of both indifferent mechanics , just putting the bus back on the road, and the crapy seal goop DD used to sell . Many shops that used better sealants have non highway oiling DD's that stay dry. On an old coach probably yanking the engine , taking apart as much as you dare , and using good workmanship and materials for the reseal will be far more sucessfull than yet another Puke can. FF | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 160 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
The flanges for that big gear driven oil cooled 24 volt 250 amp alt and the air compressor where they attatch to the gear case. The back plate for the alternator. An o-ring on the power steering pump. The adaptor plate (3 bolts) for the oil filter. There are aeroquip fittings coming out of the top of the bell housing for the external spin on trans filter, we had a major leak here. I have found that even on high idle it loads up. If it were to high idle at 1200 instead of 950 it would be better. I have pourposly drained our catch cans after warm up but prior to departure and when done the canisters will have no more than a trace for 1000s of miles. Scratch the warm up time release the brakes and warm it up going down the road. Ours was terrible and now it is fine. There were probably a few I missed and I will post when I remember them. You will have to pull the engine access panels at the rear floor to really do it right. If ir is really dirty to start use kerosene and a stiff brissle brush to get the most of the heavy grime off. Scrub it down good to start fire it up and you will see the problems | ||
| Karl VanShellenbeck (Kvan)
Registered Member Username: Kvan Post Number: 25 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 66.68.82.97 Rating: N/A |
I took some photos last night. The easy to see ones are to large to post so I edited to smaller ones. I believe that the areas described seem to be my problem also. Overall the engine is not bad but it probably does not take much to make a mess.           In the next to last photo I see a pipe that does not attach to anything. Any ideas what it is? Thanks | ||
| David Guglielmetti (Daveg)
Registered Member Username: Daveg Post Number: 57 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 64.163.110.102  Rating: N/A |
Boy, I haven't been around the 8v's for a few years, but that doesn't look too bad! | ||
| Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 190 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.235.190  Rating: N/A |
dirty old Detroit... If your really feed up with it messing the floor & decide to throw it away , I would be happy to haul it away. Now seriously if you decide to live with it & make allowances for the old gaskets, seals and joints that are not easily repaired, you might consider packing a bag of kitty litter and just clean up your mess before you leave. Put some litter in a shallow box and slide it under the leak spots, makes clean up a simple. | ||
| Karl VanShellenbeck (Kvan)
Registered Member Username: Kvan Post Number: 28 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 66.68.82.97 Rating: N/A |
Truthhunter, I am hoping to fix the leaks. I have been using the oil dry in the camp grounds for a while but having to wipe down my toad before I get into it is a pain. Thanks | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 912 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 206.40.238.103  Rating: N/A |
I chased leaks in my 671 the first year I had it and after plugging a bunch of small ones finally decided that most of the oil was from the front and rear seals, maybe even the front trans seal. It is far too much hassle to change those seals so I just live with it. Corrosion prevention I call it! | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 785 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.214.45.118 Rating: N/A |
"Corrosion prevention I call it!' Till it gets to 150 Miles Per Gallon of oil leaked. Different folks gave different tolerance for $55.00 5 gal pails of lube oil. FF | ||
| Kevin Black (Kblackav8or)
Registered Member Username: Kblackav8or Post Number: 126 Registered: 8-2005 Posted From: 24.152.162.226 Rating: N/A |
That really looks pretty minor, especially for a 2 stroke detroit with a fair amount of miles. I would just go around and make sure all the bolts are snug and clean it up good to see if you can localize the leak. Unless it is easy to fix, the effort and cost isn't worth it for what your photos show. Make sure your breather system is sound and that you are using the correct oil. | ||
| Debbie and Joe Cannarozzi (Joe_camper)
Registered Member Username: Joe_camper Post Number: 167 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 71.239.202.82 Rating: N/A |
Karl when we first got our bus the 8-V 92 put so much oil on our toad I used to have to clean it with gasoline. I only replaced 1 gasket the back-plate for the alternator all the others were stopped by tightening things up. Now there is no oil film at all on the toad. You are on the right track. Whoever that was using leaks for anti-corosion what do you put down |