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Douglas Tappan (Dougthebonifiedbusnut)
Registered Member Username: Dougthebonifiedbusnut
Post Number: 96 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.69.223.64
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, June 07, 2009 - 9:10 pm: | |
I need to know if either Sean or George could explain to me why the use of extention cord materal should not be used inside conversion walls. I have some EC,s in my garage that are 10 years old, been run over , exposed to oil ,twisted bent and generally been abused.They are made of stranded wire used exclusively in all forms of automotive applications.Tin the ends ,how can you go wrong?Oh by the way, I'm using all new EC material. |
James Robinson (Jjrbus)
Registered Member Username: Jjrbus
Post Number: 188 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 70.10.140.251
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, June 07, 2009 - 9:50 pm: | |
Extension cords are not approved for use in an RV. Nobody will inspect your RV so you can use anything you want. Now if you have a fire, and the insurance company can prove it was caused by the extension cords, they will not pay you. Dont care about insurance, you will if the fire damages someones property. If faulty wireing causes injury to another person you will be held liable, with possible criminal charges and again the insurance company will not know you. These are of course worst case. However it costs very little more to do it right and not have to worry. |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 926 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 173.78.29.189
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, June 07, 2009 - 10:34 pm: | |
Not Sean or George - but one good reason is, EC's are designed and rated for temporary use - the jackets/insulation are not designed for use in confined spaces, but are to be used in open air - resistance loads can cause the EC to heat, melt the cord/insulation, and possibly start a fire - |
david anderson (Davidanderson)
Registered Member Username: Davidanderson
Post Number: 243 Registered: 2-2004 Posted From: 69.153.67.238
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:26 am: | |
They are not approved for confined space in a permanent installation. If you ever try to sell your coach a buyer would run, run, run. Do it right the 1st time, and you won't regret it. David |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 883 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 207.87.51.116
Rating: Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 2:43 am: | |
When you ask "why" extension cords are not to be used, I assume you are asking why the code (and the cord's manufacturer) prohibits this. The simple answer is that extension cords are made for temporary use, not covered by or enclosed in any other material. Consequently, the cords are designed so that any heating of the conductors is transmitted through the insulating materials into free air, where the heat is dissipated. By installing an extension cord within a wall, or even covering it with, say, a rug, you have changed the conditions away from those for which the cord was designed and rated. This can result in insulation melting, conductors shorting, paper fillers (yes, paper is found in some cords) to smolder or catch fire, and insulating materials to out-gas toxins. I will also point out that once you cut the ends off an extension cord, it is no longer an extension cord. Now it's just cord, and it's allowable uses are determined by the type and rating of the cord itself. Many heavy-duty or "contractor grade" extension cords are made from type SJ cord, which is known as "junior hard service" cord. You are certainly free to use this anywhere type SJ is permitted. Fixed wiring inside of walls, floors, and the like, even when enclosed in rated conduit, is not a permitted use of SJ cable. In fact, there are a limited number of types of cables and assemblies allowed for this use, such as types NM, AC, and MC cable, as well as a variety of thermoplastic wire enclosed in various conduits. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Kasse Weikel (More_s_than_as)
Registered Member Username: More_s_than_as
Post Number: 53 Registered: 4-2009 Posted From: 32.155.5.209
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 3:13 am: | |
I hope peter reads this, I don't know if he planned on leaving cords out or running under carpet and through walls - very good points here |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 865 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 9:33 am: | |
Doug, Everything said above is correct. Sean has the EXACT reason, which is "using the wire outside of its rating." In the wire capacity section, one rating, the highest, is given for an un-insulated conductor in open air. (As in the high voltage utility wires, each on their own insulator.) The wire has a slightly lower current rating when insulated. A still lower rating is given for a few wires in conduit, and a lower rating for several wires in the same conduit. Romex should not be run in conduit, because its rated to be run by itself, and can't give off its heat thru its insulation, and a conduit. Same thing for extension cords in walls, (with no air circulation.) How are you going to properly ground a 3-way switch with one extension cord? HTH, George |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85
Post Number: 305 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 76.124.92.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 3:42 pm: | |
Hi Doug, Just to add to the guy's above answers. This is why you should NOT use extention cord wire for your bus wiring... http://www.magnet.fsu.edu/usershub/safety/documents/extensioncord.pdf Disallowed Uses Of Extension Cords The following uses of extension cords are not permitted at the NHMFL: • Extension cords may not be used in place of permanent facility wiring. Cords shall not be attached to building surfaces or structural members. They shall not be permanently concealed in walls, ceilings, or under floors - including raised computer floors. • Do not run cords through moisture, tied to over-head pipes, across traveled roads, under carpets, or across areas of high foot traffic. • Extension cords may not be run through doors, ceilings, windows, holes in walls, or through hinged door openings in enclosures. This is to prevent “pinch” damage to the cord. If it is absolutely necessary to run an extension cord through a doorway or open window for short-term use, the cord must be protected from damage should the door or window slam shut; it must be removed immediately when no longer in use; and must not be a trip hazard. • Do not use extension cords that are frayed, cut, or damaged such that inner conductors show, or that have outer sheaths which have pulled loose from their molded plugs exposing the inner conductors. In particular, do not use a cord that has a bare conductor exposed. • Detachable multi-tap adapters may not be used on extension cords nor on receptacles. • Cords may not be repaired with electrical tape, nor may tape be used for other purposes on a cord. It may conceal damage. |
RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong
Post Number: 1572 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 98.192.173.82
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 3:48 pm: | |
George - Check your private email listed in your profile. I sent you a message the other day, hope it didn't end up in your spam folder. RJ |
Douglas Tappan (Dougthebonifiedbusnut)
Registered Member Username: Dougthebonifiedbusnut
Post Number: 97 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.69.223.64
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 8:57 pm: | |
Thanks guys, as usual great answers. I would't know how to calculate the heat factor but if I use 12 guage the longest run I will have is 14 ft.( dedicated circuit for the 120v refer) I dont thnk heat in the conducto will be a factor. I don't think I will have any 3 way swithes but if I did I would just use a seperate runner. |
Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039
Post Number: 371 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 69.77.157.8
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:52 pm: | |
Doug, it seems like you are not listening. IT IS ILLEGAL TO USE EXTENSION CORDS TO WIRE YOUR BUS CONVERSION, PERIOD. If you do & there is a fire, electrocution or any other disaster, not only will your insurance company not pay, you likely will be held CRIMINALLY liable for anything that happens. If they do not put you in jail, they will slap you with a judgement that will prevent you from having any money for probably the rest of your life. You are going to risk all of that for $50 to $100 worth of ROMEX? Gee, what are you going to do when it comes time to buy $2,000 of tires? |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 884 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: Votes: 3 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 1:05 am: | |
Doug, in one breath you say "I would't know how to calculate the heat factor," and in the next you say "I dont thnk heat in the conducto will be a factor." If you don't know how to calculate it, then you also don't know if it will or will not be a problem. Neither is that the entirety of the issue, because you also don't know what the insulation is made of for either the inner conductors or the jacket, and whether or not such material is safe to use enclosed in anything (usually, it is not). There are good reasons this is prohibited: lives have been lost this way. Is saving a few dollars over properly rated materials really worth risking your life or those of your loved ones? NM cable (sometimes known by the trade name Romex®) is cheap - nearly as cheap as SJ from extension cords in the same gauge. If stranding is a concern, smurf tube and THHN is not much more expensive, and gives you a lot more flexibility to boot. There's just no good reason to scrimp here. I'm betting you wouldn't use garden hose in place of fuel line, or for propane, so why do, essentially, exactly the same thing with electricity? -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva
Post Number: 253 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 24.164.20.23
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 9:04 am: | |
Doug, It's your bus and chances are extremely remote that it will ever be parked next to mine, so go for it. |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 796 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 70.212.159.102
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 9:56 am: | |
Doug...you survived Iraq (thanx for that) now, listen up....survive your hobby! ... Please? RCB |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 825 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.195.79.226
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 10:39 am: | |
"There are good reasons this is prohibited: lives have been lost this way. Is saving a few dollars over properly rated materials really worth risking your life or those of your loved ones?" I wonder if there is a study on lives lost from installing simple CHEAPO single strand copper wire in a moving vehicle? FF |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 92 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 10:49 am: | |
Hi Folks. I was just checking and I have very heavy, but not romex, in my bus for some 110. It's not extension cord per-se but it's not romex. It is stamped Oil resistant P-123 MESA, 10/4, Trpe SO. Is that consider extension cord? Jim |
Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva
Post Number: 254 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 24.164.20.23
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 12:33 pm: | |
Jim, Type SO is a flexible cord and as such is not permitted for permanent wiring. |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85
Post Number: 306 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 76.124.92.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 12:49 pm: | |
Hi Jim, Len is correct! So, SJ, are essentually the same. Extension Cord Safety Tips The next time you reach for an extension cord, remember this: just because a particular cord is long enough, it’s not necessarily the right one for the job. It can be easy to think that length is the only characteristic that sets one extension cord apart from another, but there’s much more to it than that! Power extension cords aren’t all the same: they’re manufactured to be used in different environments, and to carry varying amounts of electrical current. By basing your choice of extension cord on each task’s specific requirements, you can greatly reduce the risks of fire, electrical shock, and injury that come with improper use. So keep reading… below you’ll find a brief extension cord tutorial and helpful safety tips, courtesy of CableOrganizer.com! Indoor and Outdoor Classifications Extension cords are classified for either indoor or outdoor use. What’s the difference between the two? The insulation, or jacket, of an outdoor-rated extension cord is made of a tougher material, which is designed to withstand temperature changes, moisture, UV rays, and (sometimes) chemicals. While it’s fine to use an outdoor power cord indoors, never use an indoor-rated extension cord for an outside job… doing so could cause electric shock or create a fire hazard. Gauge, Distance, and Wattage Rating Any electrical cord, extension or otherwise, contains an inner metal conducting wire, which carries electrical current from one end to the other. The thickness of this conductor is referred to as its gauge. Gauge is indicated by a number; the lower the number, the thicker the wire is. A wire’s thickness directly affects the amount of current (or wattage) it can carry over a certain distance. The number of watts an extension cord can safely transmit (given its length and gauge) is known as a wattage rating. Before plugging an appliance or power tool into an extension cord, it’s extremely important to be sure that the power demand (or pull) of that device doesn’t exceed the cord’s wattage rating. On the same note, if you’ll be powering multiple devices from one extension cord, calculate their combined energy requirements and make sure that the total isn’t higher than the wattage rating for that cord. Never use an extension cord to supply more wattage than it’s rated for, since overheating and fire may occur. How to Determine a Device’s Power Requirements It isn’t difficult to figure out how much electricity is required to run different devices. For the most part, you won’t need to do more than consult the manufacturer’s instructions. Another good place to look for wattage specs? The tags that are often attached to a device’s power cord. And if all else fails, a quick call to the product’s manufacturer should clear up any questions. In some cases, you may find that wattage requirements are listed in amps and volts instead. For these situations, there’s a simple formula that can help you calculate electricity requirements: just multiply the number of amps by the number of volts… the resulting number equals that appliance’s wattage. Here’s an example: if a device uses 5 amps at 110 volts, that translates into 550W (5 x 110 = 550). A few things to know before you plug in: For your protection, power cord labels are printed with handy product specs that tell you the cord’s length, size (wire gauge), wattage, and proper usage environment (indoors or outdoors). So before you unwind that cord and hook it up to a power tool, read the label… checking only takes a few seconds, but it might just save you from injury or property damage! When shopping for extension cords, only purchase those that bear the UL symbol. The presence of the UL mark tells you that samples of that particular type of cord have been tested by Underwriters Laboratories and received consumer safety approval. Don’t use extension cords with cut or damaged insulation… exposed conducting wires can put you at risk for fire, burns and electrical shock. Do not cut, file, or otherwise alter an extension cord’s grounding pin or plug blades to make it easier to plug into an outlet! If the extension cord plug doesn’t fit into an older outlet, have an electrician replace the receptacle. Extended exposure to outdoor conditions can cause cords to deteriorate, so whether they’re rated for indoors or outdoors, store all extension cords inside when they’re not in use. Regardless of whether or not it’s being used, as long as a power extension cord is plugged into an outlet, it’s conducting electricity. To avoid potential safety hazards, always remember to unplug extension cords when they’re not in use! If your electrical extension cord can accommodate multiple plugs but not all outlets are being used, block unused openings with outlet covers to prevent injury to children and pets Please read the following links Nick- http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/OA064 http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/29CFR/1910/1910_305.htm |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 885 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 8:13 pm: | |
quote:I wonder if there is a study on lives lost from installing simple CHEAPO single strand copper wire in a moving vehicle?
To the best of my knowledge, no such problem has ever been reported to or by any testing agency or authority. Moreover, George Myers and myself have been asking on these boards for years for anyone who has ever experienced a wire failure with properly installed (by which I mean supported to code, terminated properly, and using matching, listed fittings) solid NM to please, please post it here (or email me). So far, not one taker. But please, Fred, stop implying that the code requires solid wire -- it does not. You are free to use any properly listed stranded wire or cable if solid wire concerns you. As I have written here many times, "smurf tube" (Flexible Electrical Non-Metallic Tubing) and THHN stranded wire are readily available at Home Depot and Lowes, among many others. In fact, the code actually requires stranded wire in certain locations, specifically where differential movement or vibration will be an issue. For example, the connection between the house wiring and the generator must be made with stranded wire. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 95 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 9:16 pm: | |
Thanks guys - I was afraid of that. I'll add rewire to my list! In reality is is plenty heavy and good stuff, but Jim Bob's comments about insurance liability hit home. Another thing to add to Nicks well written description on using extension cords. Last summer I had my trailer plugged into a 100 foot cord and someone turned on the air conditioner. ( I had it plugged in to charge my batteries only) The A/C started and ran, the cord and plug were cool, BUT about 50 feet of the cord were in about a 10" coil near the outlet, About a half hour later my daughter smelled something - and the cord was just starting to flame! There is an inductive coupling in a coil, and because of the number of tight turns when the cord was rolled up, it got super hot! I am guessing if the cord had not been coiled, it would have handled the power - don't coil cords when there is a heavy load! Also, don't plug an A/C into an extension cord, unsless it is damn big. Jim |
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905
Post Number: 1509 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.110.9
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2009 - 9:40 pm: | |
If you leave the heavy cords coiled, put your rechargeable drill inside the stack of coils to recharge it. BTW, some of the extension cord coverings start cracking after several years. Fred has mentioned several times in the past, info on marine grade stranded for motor homes. |
Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow
Post Number: 28 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 98.232.218.68
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 12:33 am: | |
Sort of like using garden hoses for your plumbing. |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 872 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 12:52 am: | |
Jim, Just a thought here. Probably not over a #14 extension cord? If so, it would only be rated for 15 Amps. A 13,500 roof air will draw about 13 Amps AT 120 Volts. The loss thru a hundred feet of #14 cord at 13 Amps will be several volts, which would up the amp draw a couple, which would then be over the cord's rating, without any load from the rest of the rig. Overload the cord, coil it up, AND put it in the sun... We can all see it now, but none of us would have thought about it then! G |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 828 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.195.79.226
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 6:55 am: | |
"Sort of like using garden hoses for your plumbing." Like PEX with a 30 year history of Failures and law suits? FF |
Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb
Post Number: 360 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 9:26 am: | |
Just to muddy the waters a little since we don't want to coil. What do you guys do with the excess shore power cord when you plug in? |
RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong
Post Number: 1576 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 98.192.173.82
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 10:47 am: | |
"What do you guys do with the excess shore power cord when you plug in?" Snake it back and forth on the ground close to the coach where someone won't trip over it. FWIW & HTH. . .
|
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 873 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 11:24 am: | |
Tim, Personally I don't have a problem with coiling excess cord. There are lots of reels, spring or power rewind, etc. Also lots of plastic hand-cranked reels, which would nullify an argument that a metal reel modified the inductive component. I'm not qualified to calculate that, so lets just look what goes on every day? First thing to think about is Nick's post above, because there is the answer! In Jim's scenario above, the cord was most likely run at over its rating, and on a hot summer day in the sun. This would make it difficult for the cord to get rid of the heat generated by the current flow. Inductance aside, several of the warm coils are laying on each other, which decreases their area to dissipate heat, and stops air flow over them. Personally, I don't feel that there would ever be a problem with a properly sized cord, used within its rating. Shore cords are 10/3 for 30 Amps, and 6/4 for 50 Amps... If you really get paranoid about it, lay it all out in a bunch of esses. S S S or W W W ? sorry, I don't think Fred knows the difference between PEX and CPVC, because PEX hasn't been around for anywhere near 30 years, and CPVC had problems, but I like the metaphor on garden hoses! G |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 914 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.93.66
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 1:00 pm: | |
Jim - Re: "Jim Bob's comments about insurance liability hit home. " Just to set the myths apart from the facts here..... As long as your insurance covers fire damage, and you did not intentionally cause the fire, your are covered. (coeds or no coeds) A short story: An old friend of ours had been in the process of building his own home from the ground up. His trailer sat aside of the house, and he ran extension cords from the trailer hookup, through his home's door, under rugs, etc... and to the various things he used daily. His space heater ran continuously, powered by that extension cord. I pointed out to him, that the extension cord was getting worn where it went under the screen door to the house. He added some duct tape to it, and called it a day. His sweat-built home burned to the ground on a cold Massachusetts morning. He called me while driving his truck out in Michigan, to tell me that his wife just told him. The guy cried as he tried to tell me about it. They lost everything they had. The trailer burned just as fast as the house, and his work truck was damaged as well. The fire department isolated the source of the fire to the faulty extension cord, and noted the way it had been improperly routed. His insurance company paid for the house to be rebuilt (he had been doing all the work himself; he is a carpenter/contractor by trade), and they also paid for temporary living quarters, his trailer, truck and all their belongings. His home has been professionally rebuilt while he observed.... He may not be able to claim the pride of having done it all by himself, but he's got everything restored as good as new. He didn't intend to have a fire; he didn't plan it. The mobile home we had bought a few years back had a hot water tank leak at the connections. It flooded the trailer, causing thousands in damage to the floors, walls, etc. The previous owner had improperly installed the water heater; the insurance company inspector noted that! They paid in full for all the damage, plus our motel bills while the clean-up crews were there. If you didn't intend to do the damage, your insurance covers you. When they outlaw stupidity, we'll all be in trouble. . |
Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb
Post Number: 361 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 1:07 pm: | |
Thanks George. I have never noticed an issue on any of my shore cords marine or RV but made me think enough to ask the question. I usually leave mine coiled and only pull what I need out of the bay. |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 915 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.93.66
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 1:07 pm: | |
George - Re: "I don't think Fred knows the difference between PEX and CPVC, because PEX hasn't been around for anywhere near 30 years" To set the record straight... The mobile home we had bought was made in 1989; it had PEX stamped on the damned stuff, and was indeed PEX material. The product wasn't faulty btw, it was just the PEX connectors. They cracked and spilt over time. The PEX recall paid for the replacements of those said fittings, and that PEX tubing still resides in most all of the pre-2000 era trailer/mobile home/manufactured home in the country. . |
Skip N (Skip)
Registered Member Username: Skip
Post Number: 53 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 161.7.91.90
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 1:24 pm: | |
A really side note. FWIW In all our electrical discussions we have had lately, the one thing that I can't remember being mentioned is ambient temperature. So really there is load, length and temp. Consider that a 50' extension cord rated at 15 amps and 70 deg sitting out in the sun at 110 deg f. The temp of the cord could be much more.... now add a 15 amp draw...... Alot of things I normally don't think about no smoke and life is good Skip |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 890 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 2:14 pm: | |
quote:The mobile home we had bought was made in 1989; it had PEX stamped on the damned stuff, and was indeed PEX material. The product wasn't faulty btw, it was just the PEX connectors. They cracked and spilt over time. The PEX recall paid for the replacements of those said fittings, and that PEX tubing still resides in most all of the pre-2000 era trailer/mobile home/manufactured home in the country.
Are you sure you aren't thinking of polybutylene? This was the gray-colored stuff that most manufacturers were using in the 80's and 90's (my 1995 Fleetwood had it) that was later the subject of numerous lawsuits and a recall. It was often sold under the trade name QEST (or QWEST or QUEST), which sounds similar enough to "PEX" to be confusing. The fittings, indeed, cracked over time and there were numerous leaks. It is no longer used, having been replaced, mostly, by PEX (which is polyethylene, not polybutylene, and is usually either translucent white in color, or blue or red to denote cold or hot water). I am not aware of any major RV manufacturer using PEX prior to about 2000 or so. Most used the gray polybutylene before then. There have been lawsuits involving PEX, too -- mostly around brass fittings used to connect PEX in residential applications, which tended to leak. I recommend using the plastic fittings made for PEX instead. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 874 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 2:47 pm: | |
I do love to stir things up once in a while!!! If I didn't respect John, I wouldn't do it either, BUT: the way I do math, 2009 minus 1989 = 20 years not 30. And as John also said, it was the connectors, which aren't PEX! The problem with CPVC was the connectors also. Years ago, my neighbor put up one of the "new" BIG satellite dishes, and about a month later, a storm came through and blew it apart. His insurance paid a professional to come out and install a new one. I'd rather do it right the first time than go thru the inconvenience of a fire, even if the ins. co would do it all for me again. Now that its all stirred up, I'm going to have a guacamole burger for lunch! PEX is also an innocent victim. If a PEX system is frozen, the brass or plastic connectors will split from the ice expansion, the PEX itself has a memory, and will return to its original size when it thaws. One PEX manufacturer says their pipe will withstand six freeze/thaw cycles. Skip, You are right, please look in my middle paragraph, about 4 posts up, where I mentioned heat & sunlight for the first time. A black cord in the sunshine on a hot day, with near full load, is going to be a LOT hotter than it would on a cool day in the shade! G |
Kevin Sweeney (Sweeney153)
Registered Member Username: Sweeney153
Post Number: 11 Registered: 1-2008 Posted From: 216.6.130.4
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 2:54 pm: | |
The problems I’ve heard of with PEX involve brass fittings made by Zurn. The problem involved the fittings not the pex. If I remember corectly the predecessor company U.S. Brass filed bankruptcy because of litigation related to its polybutylene systems. At least that’s what I remember and I’ve been wrong before and will be again. |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 928 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 173.78.29.189
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 3:34 pm: | |
John - If the mobile home you owned had PEX in it - It didn't come from the factory that way - All the recalls were for PB fittings manufactured by Shell and a few others - FWIW |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 102 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 5:32 pm: | |
Just to throw a bit more on the fire, so to speak. No question the cord to my trailer was pushed, but it was indoors, in an air conditioned room and so ambient was nor more than 75. Since it was just the coil that got super hot, and not the cord, I figured it was the coil. Incidently, the coil was small - maybe 8" in dia so there were a lot of turns. I have always coiled cords (not often now) but my coils are big, maybe 18" and seldom have more than 6 coils which are not tight and accurate. Bottom line, the core was at its max and should have never been there! Maybe it was just the lack of air flow to cool it?? Sean - you mantion cases where flex is necessary. I have that same cord - Oil resistant P-123 MESA, 10/4, Type SO - running from the genny to the power distribution box in the bus. Seem like that is good - it is temporary and only used when the genny is running, and requires flexibility as the genny moves. Does that sound like a good fit for the cord? Good info here! Jim |
Kevin Sweeney (Sweeney153)
Registered Member Username: Sweeney153
Post Number: 12 Registered: 1-2008 Posted From: 216.6.130.4
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 5:50 pm: | |
Sean Is there a stranded wire that meets code other then individual wires in conduit and do you have to use thhn or can you use tw Thanks |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 916 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.95.234
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 6:47 pm: | |
Ahhh... details, details... Our Double-wide came brand new from the manufacturer in 1989, and planted in Melbourne, Fl. We bought it about 6 years ago from the second owner of the manufactured home. The tubing was clearly stamped PEX on the spots I personally looked at. I had a plumber replace several of failed older "grey" fittings, and he also said that the PEX tubing itself was in fine shape, it was just the older fittings that were a problem. And.... he also said (this was back 5 or so years), that some of the newer models (I forgot the brand) of mobile homes still are using PEX, but with the newer fittings..... Lowes still sells PEX, as does Home Depot. http://www.lowes.com/ Me? Even with the price of coiled copper, I had preferred buying rolls of it to do the bus, rather than drink from plastic. (The tubing sold separate from the bus; percentage-wise, I did better with the copper) . |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 917 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.95.234
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 7:15 pm: | |
Oh yeah, regarding insurance, etc...? I posted that tid-bit simply to help dispel the myth, not to insinuate in any manner what-so-ever, that anyone oughta' toss any damned thing together cuz it's gonna' be "money in the bank" if/when it burns. No-one "makes out" in a fire (some minor petting, maybe)... The insurance doesn't cover everything, or replace things that are beyond valuation (like anything that had been alive). In my friend's case, he had put a tremendous amount of time and labor into the building of his home. He took tremendous pride in what he was accomplishing, and it all burnt to the ground. Even the foundation collapsed from the heat, as the remains burned inside it. His loss could never be recovered. He had felt it was his "last chance" to prove to those he cared about, that he was truly worth something; that he wasn't a total failure (long story). It was all gone due to the failure to follow some simple common-sense rules..... like: "do not use an extension cord in a concealed space". And don't use more power than the cord can endure. All those "codes" you read about here....? They're all actually based on plain ol' common sense. The formula to find the ideal recipe for voltage/amps/watts to decide the right product to use for the job, is its technical backbone, but it still falls to common sense. As Fast Freddie says: "Do it your way". Just follow some safe guidelines, and use your common sense. If a manufacturer tells you not to use their product in a specific manner..... for &*^%&$ out loud... Don't frikkin' do it. The end. HAR . |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 891 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.143
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 7:40 pm: | |
quote:I have that same cord - Oil resistant P-123 MESA, 10/4, Type SO - running from the genny to the power distribution box in the bus. ... it is temporary and only used when the genny is running, and requires flexibility as the genny moves. Does that sound like a good fit for the cord?
At the risk of prompting yet another "we don't need to follow no stinkin' codes" diatribe from the peanut gallery, I will tell you that NEC article 551.30, which governs generator installations in RVs, does not permit SO cord to be used for this purpose. Here's, in part, what it says:
quote:(E) Supply Conductors. The supply conductors from the engine generator to the first termination on the vehicle shall be of the stranded type and be installed in listed flexible conduit or listed liquidtight flexible conduit.
So you need to use flexible conduit with rated stranded conductors such as THHN, THNN, THWN, etc. to connect the generator to the coach. The one exception to this might be if you had a generator with an RV-type receptacle built in, and you connected to the generator using your existing shore power cord, which is permitted to be SO. The only other place flexible cord such as SO or SJ is permitted is to connect a slide room or similar arrangement to the main coach body.
quote:Is there a stranded wire that meets code other then individual wires in conduit and do you have to use thhn or can you use tw
Technically, any wiring method or cable assembly listed in articles 320, 322, 330-340, 342-362, 386, and 388 may be used. There is no wording in any of those sections that prohibits any cable assemblies, such as type NM or type AC, from being made with stranded conductors. Where the trouble begins is that there is no really no market for, say, 14-gauge stranded NM, so, to the best of my knowledge, no company makes such a product. I have seen stranded MC in small gauges, but I can't tell you where to find it. NM and other cables in AWG-8 and larger are typically stranded conductor. As my good friend Fast Fred (and others) will be quick to point out, UL-listed "boat cable," which bears a striking resemblance to NM, is made exclusively with stranded (and tinned) conductors, and it's use is required on boats built, for example, to ABYC standards (the NEC does not cover boats). And, technically, there is no reason why such cable could not be submitted to testing and certified as Type NM cable. The reality, however, is that such testing and certification costs real money, and, AFAIK, no manufacturer of boat cable has ever done it, nor would it make any sense for them to do so -- the market for stranded, tinned Type NM cable, costing 4-5 times more per foot than traditional solid-conductor NM, is incredibly small, and it's unlikely the manufacturer will ever recoup the cost of the required testing. This puts boat cable (unless also marked with a type listing under one of the above sections of the NEC) in the category of not lawful for use in an RV, per NEC 551.40:
quote:(B) Materials and Equipment. Electrical materials, devices, appliances, fittings, and other equipment installed in, intended for use in, or attached to the recreational vehicle shall be listed. All products shall be used only in the manner in which they have been tested and found suitable for the intended use.
We have debated the issue here endlessly as to whether or not boat cable is safe for use in an RV, and it might be pointed out that a handful of professional converters choose to use this material in contravention of code. I once wrote an entire article on this subject for Bus Conversions Magazine, wherein I detailed the possible legal and code ramifications. My conclusion in that article was that I am certainly not a testing agency, and therefore I am not going to be the one to tell you that using this material is safe. Honestly, I would very much like to see the manufacturers of this product obtain the proper listing so that it may be used within the code. However, I am not holding my breath. Certainly, the conventional RV manufacturers have little interest in it, because traditional NM is so much less expensive, and, frankly, there have never been any reported failures of traditional NM in a manufactured RV. So, unfortunately, that leaves stranded wire, such as type THHN, inside of listed conduit such as ENT ("smurf tube") as the lowest-cost option for anyone who really wants to avoid solid-conductor wire. To answer your specific question, type TW is permitted in one of the raceway or conduit types listed in the above-mentioned articles, so long as it is used in accordance with its listing terms and within the rated ampacity for the intended use. I simply mention THHN because it is the most commonly available stranded wire type for general use, found at Home Depot, Lowes, etc., and is reasonably priced. Hope this helps. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (Message edited by Sean on June 10, 2009) |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 918 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 98.70.64.162
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 8:16 pm: | |
Notes from the "peanut gallery": Re: "(E) Supply Conductors. The supply conductors from the engine generator to the first termination on the vehicle shall be of the stranded type and be installed in listed flexible conduit or listed liquidtight flexible conduit." OH eeeeegads! Both our commercially built motorhomes had the genset wired to both the electrical panel (and a receptacle with outside access), using romex (wow? what? wtf?). The shoreline was then either plugged into the rv's receptacle, or the power-pole, as needed. This was done in complete compliance with both NEC and RVIAA, no less! What in the world? How can that be? Can it be true? Perhaps some reader with a pre-2000 motorhome can go take a look for us? Maybe I'm just always buying non-compliant stuff, cuz I'm bein' from the "peanut gallery" and all..... (good grief, Sean. You -are- pretty damn funny at times!) (in that undescriptive, clumsy obnoxious way) (no insult intended) . |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 892 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.143
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 8:31 pm: | |
quote:Both our commercially built motorhomes had the genset wired to both the electrical panel (and a receptacle with outside access), using romex (wow? what? wtf?).
And the first house I lived in had only two-prong outlets, and no GFI's. It also had asbestos in the flooring. But you can't build (or even remodel) a house this way today. As I have said here many times, codes evolve over time, usually because we have learned some new information about how things fail. This particular code requirement first appeared in, I believe, the 2002 code. If you had an RV built prior to that, then, yes, it might well have been made with NM connecting the generator to the vehicle. Do I really need to say, over and over again, that just because we did things a certain way 30 years ago does not mean they were safe, or that we should continue to do things that way? Would you build a house with asbestos flooring? Would you buy a car with no seat belts? Codes change. When I answer a question about the code in this forum, I base my answer on today's code, not the 1999 code, or the 1981 code, or how Airstream built trailers in 1956. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 919 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 98.70.64.162
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 8:51 pm: | |
The point, Dear Headmaster.... Is that you have repeatedly said, (in more posts than I can count), that you do not want some non-compliant failure of humanity parking next to you in a campground; if they can't take the time to do it to code, then they shouldn't do it at all. So please tell me.... with a few million pre-2000 motorhomes on the road.... where the hell do you stay to avoid all the non-compliant freaks of humanity? My sympathy to you; it truly must be hell to be a perfectionist. But you're still a friend, Sean.... And I'll save you a seat in the peanut gallery should you end up with a mental breakdown... It happens, you know. |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 893 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 10:12 pm: | |
quote:Is that you have repeatedly said, (in more posts than I can count), that you do not want some non-compliant failure of humanity parking next to you in a campground;
John, I have only said that about a handful of particularly dangerous practices. And it's true -- I don't want to be parked next to a rig that is a fire waiting to happen, whether that's from poor wiring, improper LPG plumbing, or someone who smokes in bed. What I personally think is safe and prudent (legal or not) is not something I generally discuss on the board, because people coming here to learn how to do things right deserve the facts, not mere speculation (mine or anyone else's). Anyone who has met me in person surely does not think that I am a perfectionist or that I need to avoid (how did you put it?) "the non-compliant freaks of humanity." In fact, those I have assisted in the field might (I hope) be inclined to think that I have a great deal of sympathy for those who ended up, however it happened, with a less than safe (or compliant) installation. All that said, though, if you'd spent any time on my blog, you'd know that we generally eschew cheek-on-jowl campgrounds for more secluded and private environs, or at least the sorts of campgrounds with a bit more separation. We'd rather be in the far reaches of a Wal-Mart parking lot than 15' from another rig in a campground, no matter who is in that rig or what we might think of them. That's what comes of being clumsy and obnoxious, I suppose. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Muddog16 (Muddog16)
Registered Member Username: Muddog16
Post Number: 384 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 76.181.165.196
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 11:17 pm: | |
With Seans and several other members suggestions the correct answer is simple, failure to follow this excellant information would put your family at risk! Which brings us back to "natural selection" it works every time. Welcome to the world of statistics! |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 920 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 98.70.64.162
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 - 11:26 pm: | |
Sean - Many avid RVers must wonder why there is so much fuss over "strict code compliancy", when they've been using commercially built rigs that most definitely -do not- meet the stringent criteria that you attempt to promote. I'm certainly -not- trying to promote some willie-nillie notion that "no codes/rules make for a better built product". Following guidelines for safety's sake is always a good idea, but knowing what the guidelines mean is even more important. What you're saying, is that it's OK to buy and use an older RV, but if you're building a conversion, you better not build it the way the commercial guys have been building them. What happens if a bus converter builds it according to today's "code", and next week the "new code change" is published, and it undermines whatever the converter has just built? Is his rig suddenly any less safe? Should all the older, pre-2002 motorhomes be banned? If your rig's wiring was suddenly "not compliant" to a new code that undermines the code your rig had been built to, would you lose sleep? Would you spend as much as it takes to rebuild it to the new specifications? A few years ago, there were a few guys contributing here, that did work for the UL and contributed data for the NEC. They echoed what I had said loudly: the NEC has become politicized; it's become a money bucket. That's not to say that it's a total waste, but some codes should be looked at very closely; examined for their true value. And that, goes back to what I keep typing... it's all about common sense. If one uses the formulas George (and you) post to determine the power they need, and the size/type wire to use for that power, along with the basic guidelines for grounding and bonding, they'll be safe. Getting into the details about the specific grade of insulation, when Romex has been used for years, is really pushing the envelope. Fighting about "marine grade vs house grade", when it's a recreational vehicle we're building, is nearly absurd. My concrete home doesn't vibrate; a recreational vehicle will, just like a boat. Believe it or not Sean, we're all on the same page. It's just that some of us aren't quite as passionate about it. Some of us have lived through more changes than we care to think about, and find that some of those changes were not for the better..... they were for the money. Sleep well, we in the peanut gallery will watch over you. |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 929 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 173.78.29.189
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 12:19 am: | |
Wasn't the main reason we all have coaches is they're safer than commerical RV's? I didn't believe we were trying to BE like RV's - FWIW |
Cullen Newsom (Cullennewsom)
Registered Member Username: Cullennewsom
Post Number: 74 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 202.45.184.68
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 4:56 am: | |
re: Coiling cords. As far as inductance goes, tightly coiled (a few inches diameter) is worse (higher inductance) than a coil of large diameter. Also, I have experienced one failure of el-cheapo cord reels melting and shorting. It was an all plastic model (save for the spring). It had a very light load on it (battery trickle charger). -Cullen |
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred
Post Number: 832 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.195.235.69
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 7:25 am: | |
"Wasn't the main reason we all have coaches is they're safer than commerical RV's? I didn't believe we were trying to BE like RV's - FWIW" You mean were not supposed to use the cheapest commercial crap off the shelf at Home Depot ? GOLLY , what would the RVIA say?? FF |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 921 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.76.103
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 9:13 am: | |
Niles - Re: "Wasn't the main reason we all have coaches is they're safer than commerical RV's?" That statement is about as true as it gets, but a bit out of context. If the product used in commercial RV has met all NEC codes for twenty years, and someone on the NEC board decides it should be changed today..... doesn't it render all previous RVs unsafe to use. (the answer is: no) There is no penalty for re-selling an older RV and/or using it, and it certainly makes little sense to declare anyone using the older products as fools of society and a danger to the general public. Sure, we want to conform to all the latest specs, why not? But if a guy's got a few coils of Romex sitting in his barn, and a circuit to build in his conversion - if the wire is the correct size for the job, and that type has been used for the past 20 years for that type of application - why deprive the guy? The failures of the AC electrical system I found in both our motorhomes, were due to improper stapling of the Romex, and of the use of sheet rock screws to affix items to walls that had romex secured to the inside of the wall. (I often wondered why BX wouldn't have been better..?) The Romex leading from the genset or shoreline never had a problem, but using outlets and switches designed for a stationary home was usually found with screws that had backed out due to road/engine vibration problems. Automobile manufacturers take great care to pick a specific thread pitch for screws, nuts, and bolts to avoid the problem of vibration, does the NEC take that same problem into consideration? Following code should be the ideal way to go about things, but the assumption of the more passionate, that no rule, code or "law" should ever be questioned, is ludicrous to anyone with a brain. Following anything blindly is why some of us feel this fine Nation got to the disgusting place it's at. We all have brains. If a guy bought a bus to convert, and has the will to do it right, he certainly has enough smarts to know how to decide right from wrong -when he knows the basics of "right"-. A passionate NEC code idealist would be better served teaching the basics, and not dwelling on the "law". Giving people the benefit of doubt and an education, can work the wonders, that no "law" will ever accomplish. Aside from that? (I'm sorry... Have I been ranting?) |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 108 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 10:29 pm: | |
Sean, Thank you for my answer on the genny cord - I am going to replace it and have it be right! Personally, I really appreciate knowing the current pest practice. Jim |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 803 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.209.56.32
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 11:15 pm: | |
Curiosity...what is "pest practice"....? RCB |
Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow
Post Number: 30 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 98.232.218.68
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 4:04 am: | |
The point is, do whatever you want to because you know what? Its yours and thats all that counts! You own it, its yours. You do the thing that you feel apropriate for you and your mindset. After all, isnt that what its all about? If you feel comfortable with that, then do it. If that makes sence to you then do it. Its yours, do what you want. If it doesnt work, make it work. This is a free country. Do what you want. With all the rules and regulations everybody has a fit! |
Cullen Newsom (Cullennewsom)
Registered Member Username: Cullennewsom
Post Number: 83 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 202.45.186.160
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 5:36 am: | |
quote:This is a free country. Do what you want.
Where do you live? I want to go! |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 876 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 9:55 am: | |
Bill, Do you mean I don't have to vent my generator if I don't want to? Um, let's see, the furnace won't gas me and mine because I want to install it my way? And of course, the extension cord in the wall won't catch fire because I want to save money and wire nut everything together? G |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 110 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 10:25 am: | |
The codes and rules, as we all know, have evolved over the years to keep things safer. I don't belevie a do whatever you want is a good way, and if you are wanting a safe coach, at least try to do it right! I found a cheap, white 12 foot plastic extension cord running up from an outlet in a bay, through the floor, up a wall, and had a TV plugged into it. Someone did it there way, and I suppose it might have never been an issue, but common sense needs to be incorporated in wiring a coach! Jim |
Nick Badame Refrigeration Co. (Dnick85)
Registered Member Username: Dnick85
Post Number: 308 Registered: 2-2006 Posted From: 76.124.92.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 11:38 am: | |
You can wire your coach anyway you like. It's your coach! Just hang a sign in the window that says, "I wired my coach with extention Cords" This way, when the fire dept. arrives, they can choose weather or not to risk their lives for you....It's their lives too! They should also have a choice.. http://www.compliance.gov/forms-pubs/eresources/fastfacts_extensioncords.pdf http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/16.html http://www.defenselink.mil/news/newsarticle.aspx?id=43173 http://www.servicemagic.com/article.show.Is-Your-Electrical-Wiring-the-Fuse-for-a-Bomb-in- Your-Home.16784.html http://www.uh.edu/fire/extension_cords.html http://www.dhhs.state.nc.us/humanresources/esb/safety/internaldocs/pos80.htm |
Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow
Post Number: 31 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 98.232.218.68
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 8:32 pm: | |
I thought that would get you riled up. Just use some common sence on everything. Some people are born with it and some arent. I used asbestos to insulate mine! Just kiddin. |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 806 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.248.140
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 12, 2009 - 8:32 pm: | |
!!! RCB |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 924 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.94.121
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 12:07 pm: | |
Re: "Just use some common sence on everything. " Posters like George, Sean, Nick, and others, all provide us with a great amount of knowledge that we can then apply with our gift of good common sense. Some of them give us that knowledge without dramatic dialog, others are intent on trying to scare the beejesus out of individuals with "laws", "insurance woes" and "possible death" (shudder). I much prefer the high road, without the drama. There's millions of campers that have been doing things their way for years; the percentage of mishaps are miniscule. There's a certain amount of "common sense" that prevails among all beings, big, small, young and old, and it'd be nice to see that respected. People aren't brainless, they just need a basic education for their job at hand..... without the drama. By now, most of the important issues have likely been forgotten.. so... A. Buy a decent book for electrical work (several are listed on BNO's threads) B. Buy, and learn how to use basic electrical test equipment. C. Learn the basic formulas for electrical computations, or at least know how to use them. Oh, and: D. Buy a fire extinguisher for electrical fires. E. Obtain a life insurance policy that covers death by electrical fires. (D and E added for Sean, et al) </bad_humor> |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 879 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 2:02 pm: | |
See, even John comes around after a while! "People aren't brainless..."? A former neighbor took his saw chain in to be sharpened, and called me after he put it back on complaining that it didn't cut as well as it did before. Guesses everyone? G |
Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay
Post Number: 432 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 69.143.33.151
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 3:01 pm: | |
Were the chains that he was sawing harder than before? Or did he put it on backwards? |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 880 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 3:23 pm: | |
Yep-BACKWARDS! |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 925 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.83.34
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 6:25 pm: | |
Didja' tell him to stand on the other side of the log? |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 811 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.209.72.10
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 11:07 pm: | |
... RCB |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 881 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, June 14, 2009 - 1:53 am: | |
John, Gosh no, I didn't think of that! My only excuse is that it was all I could do to keep from laughing. Regards, G |
Brian Elfert (Belfert)
Registered Member Username: Belfert
Post Number: 80 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.72.107.232
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 12:43 pm: | |
I choose to use marine cable and wire in my conversion. Everything I have used is UL1015 listed. (I think that is the UL number.) A big concern in the past seemed to be that marine cable was not UL listed. |
Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva
Post Number: 259 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 24.164.20.23
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 3:46 pm: | |
I thought I was fairly knowledgeable about the NEC, but now I'm not so sure. I was always under the impression the the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) which publishes the NEC was somehow connected to Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) and that when the NEC referred to a listed device or product, they meant UL listed. Now, looking through the index of my old (1990) NEC, there is no mention of UL and the definition of "listed" is kind of vague. I have also found some products like my Todd Engineering transfer switch listed by ETL (Intertek) and not UL, though I'm sure it must be an approved device. Sean? George? |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 894 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.149
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 5:59 pm: | |
The NFPA does not do product testing, nor does it list products as suitable for particular use. That job is left to a number of independent testing laboratories, of which UL (Underwriters Laboratories) is probably the best known in the US. When the NEC says that a product is required to be "listed," it also usually follows that with a note that the product must be used in a way consistent with the listing. That concept is implicit in any case. Note that extension cords, for example, are also generally UL listed, but this does not mean they are safe or legal to use, say, inside walls. The Boat Cable that Brian refers to is listed by the UL (#1426) as type "BDFX," which is explicitly for use in boats. Type BDFX is not a recognized type within the NEC for RV wiring. In order for it to be usable in an NEC-compliant installation, it must also be listed as, say, type NM (non-metallic cable). There is no reason why boat cable could not be submitted and tested to the type NM spec, except that there is no market for it, so the manufacturers choose not to spend the money to do it (UL and other labs do not work for free). Below is an article I wrote on the matter several years ago for Bus Conversions Magazine (minus the photos). Note that it is lengthy and arcane, and was intended to stand alone -- we've already covered much of the background elsewhere in this thread.
quote: Recently, a participant on the Bus Conversions on-line Bulletin Board observed that respected engineers in the bus conversion community sometimes appear to offer contradictory advice on wiring methods. Specifically, he noted, one author recommended "Romex®" (a brand of what is generically known as non-metallic jacketed, or "Type NM" cable) and cautioned that "Boat Cable" was unacceptable, while a different author advised that Boat Cable was preferable and recommended against using Type NM. Furthermore, this individual had heard through other sources that using heavy-gauge extension cords would be better still (although I am certain that this advice came from neither of these authors). The poster of this observation summed it up well: "Now I am Really confused." I tend to stay out of these debates -- it's like debating religion, or maybe politics. However, this particular contradiction appears to be a source of much anguish among first-time converters, and more light can be shed on this issue. As is often the case with religious debates, I don't expect to convert anyone's long-held beliefs. But if you are genuinely confused about this, you're not alone. Before one can say definitively that one of these methods is better than the other (or that one is correct and the other incorrect), one needs to first understand that there are several discreet issues involved here -- codes, laws, liability, and safety -- that are over and above the simple issues of "will it work?" and "how reliable is it?". The issues are all inter-related, but they are different and separate. Problems ensue when we try to wrap them all together into one all-encompassing "right answer." I'm going to separate them out individually, while pointing out how they connect. 1. Code There is, indeed, a set of codes and standards which cover the design and construction of "motor homes," "motor coaches," "housecars" and whatever other terms may be used from state to state to describe motor vehicles used as living accommodations. Many of the standards are applicable to motor vehicles in general, such as Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108, which describes required safety equipment for all motor vehicles, and includes such items as clearance, marker, and ID lighting, safety belts, and the like. Not the subject of this article, of course, but some of us make changes to these things and need to be aware of and follow this standard. The first standard that is most relevant to this discussion is issued jointly by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) as ANSI A119.2 and the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) as NFPA 1192. Much of the work behind these standards was originated by the RV industry itself, in an era when self-policing was the norm (which is a whole separate discussion) and was developed in committee by the RV industry's own trade association, the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA). Consequently, many people still refer to this code as "the RVIA code." (RVIA requires its member companies to follow 1192 explicitly.) Nevertheless, NFPA and ANSI have done substantial additional work, and this document can now be considered a bona-fide safety code (notwithstanding claims you may have heard that it is some kind of self-serving industry propaganda). Whether or not there is a legal requirement to comply with 1192 is a separate discussion, see below. However, it is a good idea whether or not there is a pre-existing legal requirement (also see below). In any case, if one is going to follow this standard, then the National Electric Code (NEC), also produced by the NFPA, is included by reference. In other words, a motor coach does not comply with NFPA 1192 / ANSI A 119.2 unless it also complies with all provisions of the current NEC in force at the time of conversion. At this writing, the 2002 edition is the most current version of the NEC (they are revised every three years). Legally speaking, compliance with the NEC may be required even where compliance with 1192 is not -- again, see below. 2. Legal First, I am not an attorney, and I suggest you seek competent legal advice for your own situation. I have had some experience, though, on both civil matters (lawsuits) and code-compliance matters in several states in the course of my career managing fleets of vehicles and designing, building, and managing high-tech facilities. All of the matters relating to legality of both the vehicular and conversion aspects of our bus conversions are largely matters of state, not federal, law. Many people are confused or misled on this issue. Some of the confusion comes from the fact that vehicles used in interstate commerce are subject to federal regulation in preference to state regulation, a matter dictated by the US constitution. However, this is limited to commercial vehicles, by definition. While some readers may, in fact, be creating conversions for commercial use (for example, building an "entertainer" coach, such as the MaddenCruiser, to be operated by a certificated interstate carrier to transport passengers), most of us are not, and will title our coaches as "motorhomes," which are mostly subject to state, rather than federal, regulation. In practice, many motor vehicle laws are similar from state to state (further confusing people as to the responsible authority), because adherence to FMVSS 108 is enforced on the states by the federal government, in an interesting end-run around the constitution, through the threat of withholding federal highways funds. (Want an interstate in your state? Then adopt FMVSS 108.) The same is not true for conversion-related standards. Some states have, indeed, adopted NFPA 1192 as law. All 50 states have adopted the NEC as law. Note that the NFPA and ANSI are non-profit standards bodies, and have no force of law themselves, but when their codes become "adopted" by governmental bodies, then they become part of the law in those jurisdictions. Now, in practice, NFPA 1192 has been adopted as law in many states, but often only as pertains to "manufacturers" of recreational vehicles. Whether or not you, as a private individual converting a bus, are considered to be a "manufacturer" and thus subject to the law varies from state to state. If you have concerns about this, you should seek the advice of an attorney licensed to practice in your state (or the state in which you will register the vehicle). The NEC is another matter. In most, if not all, states, the NEC is enforceable against everyone, including private individuals. That's not to say enforcement is actually done -- a quick walk through almost anyone's privately owned and maintained home in almost any state will turn up at least two or three code violations. Most jurisdictions have code enforcement agencies nominally responsible for enforcement action with respect, at least, to fixed buildings. Almost no jurisdiction, though, has any formal mechanism or agency to enforce the code with respect to converted vehicles. Lamentable (in my opinion), but true. Sadly, the legal consequences of willfully violating the code are often only evident after a tragedy, which is a nice segue to... 3. Liability This is a thorny and often hotly contested issue. That's why the world is full of tort attorneys. States have wildly different standards, practices, and case law on this. It is flatly impossible to say universally what one's liability will be for either unsafe practices or for code violations. (Just remember, though, that here in the good old USA, anyone can sue anyone for anything.) Many jurisdictions will find criminal wrongdoing in cases where codes have been willfully violated and injury or death results. This is in addition to any civil liability that may attach. As for insurance matters, only your individual insurance company can tell you what its policy is on its liability for claims in the case where codes have been violated. I know that my own policy specifically excludes coverage for any act of mine in knowing and deliberate violation of the law. A sharp attorney could use that to exclude coverage, for example, for a fire caused by faulty wiring that was installed in violation of code. Remember that the NEC is law in all 50 states. 4. Safety What all these codes and laws come down to is: safety. Almost every provision of the NEC is a direct response to some number of deaths or serious injuries. (That being said, the code can not and does not foresee and address every conceivable circumstance and every possible problem.) In many cases, provisions of code are in place precisely because common sense, conventional wisdom, and peoples' well-intentioned "good practices" would result in something being done in a way that is dangerous but completely hidden and non-obvious to even an expert eye. The point I am making here about safety is: don't second-guess the codes. The reason for any particular code provision may not be obvious, and you may think you know a "better way," but there is probably a good reason behind it somewhere (and maybe even a few dozen graves). Now that we've covered the background, we can discuss the debate about NM versus Boat Cable. Type NM cable (often known by the brand name Romex®) is explicitly permitted by the NEC for use in RVs, and is safe to use for most applications. The conductors of most commercially sold NM cable (up to about 10 AWG) are solid. Many people abhor solid wire, for a variety of reasons -- its stiffness makes it hard to install in some places, nicks in the conductors can induce premature failure, and some contend that normal flexing while underway can result in stress failure of the conductors. Some of these reasons are why some authors recommend against it in their books and articles. "Boat Cable" is similar to NM cable in that it has a non-metallic jacket and is about the same form-factor. One principal difference is that the individual conductors are stranded, not solid. This makes the cable easier to install, and many argue that it is more reliable because of the flexing issue (although note that the NEC requires NM to be properly secured, and reported problems due to cable flex are very, very rare). The problem with most boat cable is that it is not "listed" for this use. The NEC requires all components of a wiring system to be "listed," meaning the manufacturer certifies the component as meeting specific standards, and that it is compatible with the other components in the system. In practice, the way manufacturers certify products as compliant is they submit them to independent testing laboratories such as Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) and request the product be certified to a particular standard. This is a very expensive process. Manufacturers of boat cable, as a matter of course, also submit their products to UL and others for testing to standards promulgated by the US Coast Guard and/or international maritime standards bodies. As a result, the cable receives a type of BDFX and is "listed" for that use. Note that merely finding "UL Listed" on the cable does not mean it is listed for uses within the NEC, unless the specific NEC type marking is also on the jacket. Most boat cable is listed under UL 1426 and is marked "Boat Cable" and, e.g. "BC-5W2", which has meaning in the marine industry but is not in the NEC. Coast Guard requirements are strict, marine environments are harsh, and the danger of fire at sea is orders of magnitude more life-threatening than land-based usage. In all probability, this cable, in most cases, would also meet NEC standards for certain types of cable assemblies (e.g. Type NM). BUT THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT SUBMITTED THE PRODUCT FOR THIS TEST! The fact that the product would most likely pass does not endow the product with the proper listing. And the simple reason why the product has not been tested is that there is a cost associated with testing that will not be recovered through sales -- boat cable is made for boats, where it is required. Type NM, which is cheaper by about two thirds, is made and listed for homes (and RVs), and boat cable manufacturers are not going to achieve any significant additional sales of their boat cable by asking UL to also test it to NEC standards. Some people have argued that, since testing to Coast Guard standards is, in many ways, more rigorous than testing to NEC standards for Type NM, that Boat Cable is therefore actually "better" than Type NM, and any legal challenge to its use in a bus could easily be won on that basis. The problem with this reasoning is that it presumes that the NEC is concerned only with the quality of the material in question. The code, however, is also concerned with the compatibility of the all the components in the wiring system. Part of the certification of a component such as a cable is the certification that it will work as intended with the fittings and devices for which it is designed. As an example, Type NM cable is permitted to be used with listed NM fittings, while Type AC cable is permitted to be used with listed type AC fittings. But if you run a type AC cable to a junction box, and then connect the cable to the box with a type NM fitting, you have violated the code, even though both are permitted types. This violation would be obvious to even the untrained eye -- AC cable does not fit properly in NM fittings. My point is that the quality of the cable is only one part of the approval process. If one chose to use Boat Cable instead, what fittings would be "approved"? Would one just use NM fittings, because they "look right"? How would one know, for example, that the coating on the outside of the boat cable has the right characteristics to be mechanically secured in a type NM fitting without slipping out? So is wiring with Boat Cable safe? Maybe. I'm not a testing laboratory, and I personally won't stand behind a statement that boat cable is safe to use in a house (including RVs). Is it to code? Absolutely not -- for the simple reason that the manufacturer has not listed the product for this use. Is it legal? Depends on where you are, where you did your conversion, and who cares enough to raise the issue. If you have concerns about solid conductors and prefer to use stranded cable, there are many alternatives that are stranded and also UL-listed to NEC standards. For example, type THHN stranded cable, when installed in a listed and approved conduit such as flexible metal conduit or liquid-tight flexible metal conduit, is an approved method. While more costly and labor intensive than installing integral-jacket cables such as Type NM (or metal-jacket cables such as Type AC or Type MC), you would get the benefits of stranded wire, plus the benefit of being able to remove, replace, or, in some cases, add wires long after your conversion is complete. Lastly, I need to address the issue of wiring with extension cords: These are not to code, illegal in most jurisdictions, and UNSAFE, whether in a boat, a coach, or inside the walls of a house. Here's why: Manufacturers of extension cords design and rate their cords for use uncovered, in free air. The design of the cord encompasses the gauge and ampacity of the copper conductors, but also the thermal and chemical properties of the insulation, sheathing, strain relief, and jacket. The cords are designed to carry their rated current only when the internally generated heat can be conducted through the insulation and into the environment. If the cord is covered in any way, either by being buried in a wall, or worse, directly inside of inflammable foam insulation, it is being asked to do something for which its insulation was not designed or tested: conduct heat into something other than free air. Many, many fires have started in extension cords that were improperly covered, costing hundreds of lives. The insulation on these cords ignites easily, burns hot, and produces highly toxic gas. Don't do it -- it's not worth your life, or that of a loved one. ----- About The Author: Sean Welsh holds a Master's Degree in Engineering from Stanford University. He recently retired from the telecommunications industry, where he held a variety of operational and engineering responsibilities. He is a regular technical contributor on the MAK [and BNO] BBS and lives on the road in his converted Neoplan with his wife and three pets.
FWIW. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 931 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.93.176
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 7:02 pm: | |
OH-Oooooh? Re: "Many, many fires have started in extension cords that were improperly covered, costing hundreds of lives." I was about to applaud, until I read that line. Somehow, the peanut gallery can not seem to locate the proper place that manages to substantiate those very, very grim statistics. That statement would be more believable had you simply typed: "Fires can start with extension cords that are improperly used." You're a good guy Sean; Smart and sane! A lil' too melodramatic perhaps.....?
|
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 895 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.149
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 7:28 pm: | |
From the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission:
quote:CPSC also estimates that about 3,300 residential fires originate in extension cords each year, killing 50 people and injuring about 270 others. The most frequent causes of such fires are short circuits, overloading, damage, and/or misuse of extension cords.
So, John, 50 people dead each year (on average) due to extension-cord fires -- and that's just residential use, not including commercial -- adds up to HUNDREDS over just a few years. And improperly used extension cords have been killing people for DECADES, not years. The statistics, in fact, are well into the thousands. You could find this out in less than two minutes of research. So, in reality, I was being understated, not "melodramatic." -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 932 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.93.176
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 7:52 pm: | |
Oh, yes.... the CPSC! CPSC web info (Motto: "Taking minds, one by one") You'll have to pardon me whilst I cringe, and perhaps vomit a little. I guess if they say it is, it is. But I would suggest enquiring minds Google: "Consumer Product Safety Commission" +validity just for the halibut. Thanks Mr. Sean. You are a good provider of information. |
marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer
Post Number: 533 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.53.155.14
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 8:04 pm: | |
Hey DUDES!!!! Da man has spoken and if you listen real close you will hear Da Fat Lady A-SANGIN. Lets us leave and go home now!! |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 896 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 72.171.0.149
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 8:40 pm: | |
John, similar statistics can be found from a variety of sources. I quoted the most relevant one. But if you are simply going to disbelieve any source I provide, I don't have a different answer for you. You said that you "can not seem to locate the proper place that manages to substantiate those very, very grim statistics" and yet, it seems, you've done no research whatsoever on the topic. So, of course, if you don't even look, you would "seem [not to be able] to locate [substantiated] grim statistics." No wonder you don't believe the code has any value -- you don't believe any of the underlying motivation. Of course few people have died from electrical fires -- we can't believe all those pesky agencies charged with investigating them or compiling statistics. After all, it's a conspiracy. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
niles steckbauer (Niles500)
Registered Member Username: Niles500
Post Number: 931 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 173.78.29.189
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 9:03 pm: | |
AhA! - Sean, here I too was a believer in the codes, but no need to follow them, now we can explain all the things that go wrong in life with one word - "conspiracy" - why not try my favorite response for people who refuse to accept reasonable, rational, factual explanations of science and nature - just say, "it's magic" - they'll sooner accept that answer - stop wearing yourself out - stick a fork in me, I'm done - LOL |
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb
Post Number: 818 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.209.50.231
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 11:24 pm: | |
Are WE having fun yet???? Hang in there Sean....we need you! RCB |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 113 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 1:48 am: | |
Sean - I agree - I love hearing the facts- keep them comming! Stanford - I'm impressed - no wonder you are so damn smart! (I mean that 100% as a compliment!) Thanks, Jim |
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501
Post Number: 479 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 2:30 pm: | |
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him THINK. Holding their head under may provide some personal satisfaction, but then you'd be all wet too . . . . |
John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9
Post Number: 933 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 98.70.65.111
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 7:03 pm: | |
Sean - I typed out a true story about a friend that lost his home due to the improper use of a stupid extension cord. Yes, it was a very true story. Anyone who doubts the safe, proper use of any device, only has to read the manufacturer's instructions and warnings. No-one (including me) is finding fault with your insistence of the proper use of an extension cord. In fact, I totally agree. But -I- find it condescending (at the least) to act like there's a bunch of children out here that have to be scared into compliance by warnings of impending doom, death, or legal recourse. Why is it, that it has to pointed out that "hundreds of deaths", or "campgrounds burned to the ground", has to be tossed in? It starts to sound like a TV ad that some playwright has conjured up! Really! Aside from what I feel is a condescending attitude, you're a nice, smart guy that means well. I just wish you'd have more faith in your peer's ability to use their own common sense, after they've been given the information they need to make that informed decision. It needn't be so dramatic. Cheers! |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 886 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 7:45 pm: | |
John, There's only one thing to say here, in addition to the inability to make a horse drink. If everyone here knew not to use extrension cords in walls as permanent wiring, we wouldn't have had this thread in the first place. There is a good bus for sale now with extension cord wiring. Somebody did it "his" way, and it ended up being an energy hog, all electric bus, that nobody will buy, even though it is pretty cheap for a newer bus with a 92 and an auto... I don't care if somebody does it "my" way or not, you're probably tired of me explaining things too. The advice I try to give explains how many BTU in a gallon of propane, and how many BTU in a Kilowatt Hour, etc. Then people can make up their own mind about how many batteries they need to boondock, etc, and whether or not to have a propane/electric refrigerator and gas/diesel water heater, etc. I'm deliberately not mentioning any more about the bus, because I don't want to goose a sale, and hopefully a prospective buyer will check it out first. This is only brought up because some people don't believe in asking for free advice from those of us who have BTDT first! G |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 898 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 9:01 pm: | |
quote:Why is it, that it has to pointed out that "hundreds of deaths", or "campgrounds burned to the ground", has to be tossed in?
Because it is a stark reality that many people are completely unaware of. I make such statements only in rebuttal to claims that these sorts of mistakes are somehow not serious. They are deadly serious.
quote:I just wish you'd have more faith in your peer's ability to use their own common sense, after they've been given the information they need to make that informed decision.
I'm sorry, John, but we don't live in a society where anyone gets to make these decisions for himself. We've been over this ground before -- you can't build your own nuclear reactor in the back yard, you can't create a 50,000-watt radio transmitter without a license, you can't build a house without a permit, and you can't simply decide for yourself what wiring materials are acceptable to use in an RV. Society's interests in this matter are legion, but to name three: 1. Even if you intend to be the only person ever to occupy your RV, it is inevitable that you will have guests or professionals on board. Some of those professionals might be firefighters or paramedics, and you may be unconscious and not able to stop them from entering. They are entitled to the safety of a properly constructed and compliant installation, and they expect it. 2. Again, even if you intend for yourself alone to be the last soul ever to occupy your RV -- ridiculous as this supposition is, let's say you intend to destroy it completely when you are finished with it -- circumstances conspire to transfer your RV to other parties, who were not privy to your plans or decision to do things against code. You might die unexpectedly and your estate might sell it, or you may have a legal judgment levied against you and the RV may be confiscated, or any number of other possibilities. (More realistically, intentions or otherwise, you will succumb to the temptation to sell it when you are done with it.) Now, again, an unsuspecting person has come to occupy something you built without regard to the code. 3. Problems with your RV that might arise due to your willful disregard for the law can impact persons and structures around you. For example an electrical fire might escape and spread to neighboring properties, or an improperly connected generator might back-feed the utility power and electrocute a maintenance worker. So emphatically, NO, I do not have "faith in [my] peer's ability to use their own common sense, after they've been given the information they need to make that informed decision." I've seen too many problems caused by well-intentioned and often very smart people who did not follow the rules. Also, I've heard from too many people on this board and elsewhere who've announced their intentions to do unsafe things, such as use extension cord material to wire their buses, to have unqualified faith in all my peers. I would rather be able to have the faith in my peers that they will understand why we have laws (and codes) in this great country of ours, and agree to follow those laws (and codes) for the safety of those around them, in addition to themselves. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
George M. Todd (George_mc6)
Registered Member Username: George_mc6
Post Number: 887 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 64.55.111.6
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 12:48 am: | |
We also have to define a peer closely! My peers will all have proper electric and diesel central heat and air in their buses. They will also have to go elsewhere for roof raises, cabinetry, and other items requiring finish carpentry skills, as I have none. I'm serious about the bus I mentioned too, IMNSHO, the owner is a legend in his own mind. He posted about how great his stuff was a year ago, along with pictures which showed built-in extension cords, and his generator. Problem was he couldn't get up on a cold morning, run his heaters and cook breakfast at the same on his generator! If the water heater thermostat turned on, he was really short. (I am talking about a 7KW generator in an all-electric bus.) Is he my exact peer? No, but his finish woodwork looks great. The difference between a pair of Vise Grip pliers and a Rottweiler, is that the Rottweiler lets go once in a while! G |
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501
Post Number: 480 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 9:06 am: | |
RE: "I just wish you'd have more faith in your peer's ability to use their own common sense, after they've been given the information they need to make that informed decision. " From my experience, the following traits: - common sense, - ability to accept information that is contrary to what one wants to believe, - ability to make an informed decision. Are each rare & the chances of finding all 3 in one person is rarer still. (However, I have noticed it is more readily found in busnuts. Just as I have seen some stuff at rallies that scare the crap out of me. How many times have you seen people using the space over their house batteries as storage & putting stuff directly on top of the batteries?) I've worked on houses after a professional licensed workers (electricians, contractors, plumbers, HVAC, etc.) had been there. You can bet I don't trust someone’s 'certificates' either! Sad fact is most don't want to spend more if they don't understand the difference. & many don't want to understand, especially if it is going to cost more. |
FloridaCliff (Floridacracker)
Registered Member Username: Floridacracker
Post Number: 406 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 67.8.98.138
Rating: Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 17, 2009 - 9:38 am: | |
re:I've worked on houses after a professional licensed workers (electricians, contractors, plumbers, HVAC, etc.) had been there. You can bet I don't trust someone’s 'certificates' either! Kyle, You hit the nail on the head. I have seen some interesting installs by layman and so called professionals. Its the execution of the job, the install, that matters to a higher degree than almost the material. A good Mechanic/Technician knows how to properly secure, fasten, torque, attach to keep it safe. I designed, drew the prints and completed all the construction on my house except the concrete and finishing the drywall. I spent plenty of time with building inspectors going over items in regards to the code. When they came to inspect the first time he told me he was sure I had completed the work and not hired it out. My first thought was it appeared to be done by an amatuer, but he assured me the quality exceeded anything I could pay for. Look at a dozen buses at the next rally you go to, especially the mechanicals in the bays....I promise you will be able to tell which one you would sleep in without ever seeing the interior. Were not building a tree fort here! This is a rolling house with real people sleeping inside and limited egress, safety is priority 1. Cliff |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 115 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 11:09 am: | |
Sean, You would be proud of me. I just pulled all of the SO cord and completely re-wired my entire bus. There were only 2 1/2 circuits on the SO cord, one for roof A/C, one for refer+ 1 outlet in the kitchen, and one for the bath and bedroom. No GFI's anywhere. I say 2 1/2 because one of the SO cords in the panel had the hot going to a 20A breaker, and neutral to another 20A breaker with the ground wire sharing neutral & ground! Someone did it their way - glad I decided to look. I put in 3 new kitchen outlets on a GFI and 15A breaker, a dedicated refer with GFI and 15A, a dedicated hot water 20A with GFI, a dedicated battery charger 20A with GFI, one more bath outlet with GFI, 3 LR outlets on 15A GFI, and a dedicated 15A microwave without GFI. The A/C is on a 30A with no GFI. My genny is an older Onan with 220 output so the box is split into 2 120's. I wired the A/C, Hot water, and Batt charger to one side, and left the smaller stuff on the other so when I get my Heart inverter/charger and another house bank, it will be easy to split the panel and have the inverter switch be easy and safe and not try to run those heavy items by accident. I do not have an automatic switch-over for the genny, and instead, plug the shore power into the correct supply, genny or outside service. I used Romex for the whole job and used proper hangers, clamps, etc and it looks great! Tested every circuit and it's perfect - I know I will sleep a bit (A LOT!)easier now! Thanks everyone for the advice, and for any of you who have not really looked hard at your wiring done by a PO, I highly reccomend it - mine looked sort-of OK, and if were not for this post on "extension cords", I might have put it off. It only took my son and I two long days and about $200 to do the job. Jim |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 902 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 70.58.64.85
Rating: Votes: 2 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 19, 2009 - 2:06 pm: | |
quote:... a dedicated refer with GFI and 15A, a dedicated hot water 20A with GFI, a dedicated battery charger 20A with GFI ...
Jim, Sounds great, but you should reconsider the GFI's on the dedicated appliance circuits. Code does not require a GFI on a dedicated circuit, such as for a refrigerator, even if the receptacle is in a space that would otherwise require it (such as near a sink). The reason for this is that you don't want "nuisance tripping" to shut your fridge off and ruin your food, and the dedicated nature of the receptacle means that there is not really a shock hazard, since personnel are not plugging things into the receptacle routinely -- only when installing or servicing the fridge. For this reason, I recommend against a GFI on the fridge, where you can be risking your food. Similar reasoning applies on the water heater and battery charger -- if those outlets are not routinely accessed, and are dedicated to the appliances, the chance of a nuisance trip giving you a cold shower or dead batteries is orders of magnitude higher than you getting a shock from the outlet. Of course, it should go without saying that all receptacles should be tested for proper wiring and grounding before putting them in service, and this is especially important for damp-location receptacles without GFI, such as water heaters and the like. Congrats, though, on discovering the problems and taking proactive action to address them. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
Registered Member Username: River_rat
Post Number: 116 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 75.95.96.192
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, June 20, 2009 - 12:32 am: | |
Thanks once again. I'll pull the GFI's on the refer and batt charger, but figured since a hot water had a heating element in water, that if there were ever a failure, it could possible cause a shock through the water system - although I guess it is kind of remote. Had not even thought about the refer going off from the GFI, but certainly makes sense. All of my outlets are GFI and I tested every one - 100% pass with no crossed wires! My 17 year old son did most and it was a great learning experience for him - he loved it! Maybe another engineer in the works. Thanks again. Jim |
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