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Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Post Number: 117
Registered: 1-2009
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 12:33 pm:   

Hi All. I'm sorting out my air system (still) and was about to look at the govenor/unloading valve on the air compressor. Read Da Book first, then noticed the govenor looked different from the book, or I am not looking at it right. I beleive the govenor is bolted to the side of the compressor - there is no pic of the whole assembly I can find, but the drawings and such in the book are totally different than what I have. My part is is a simple single tube structure with two bolts holding it to the compressor, an air passage between them, and an air line that goes to the assembly on the firewall. It has a rubber cap on top, and a lock-nut and screw adjuster. Totally different then Da Book picture. Am I looking at the wrong thing, or are there different versions?
Jim
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
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Post Number: 196
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 12:35 pm:   

sounds like the govenor to me
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Post Number: 118
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 12:47 pm:   

Here is a pic of the unit sitting on the pic in the book - not the same, or I am looking at something else?
larry currier (Larryc)
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Post Number: 234
Registered: 2-2007
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 2:38 pm:   

Jim,

Yours is a D2 Bendix. The picture in the book looks a little different, but it could be a D2, what does it say it is? They are not expensive and there are rebuild kits available. The 280915 kit has high temp O rings and the 276121 kit has standard O rings.

(Message edited by larryc on June 22, 2009)
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 5:11 pm:   

Some of the old style governors are still in service on some of the 04's and older, however they have been superseded by the newer tubular style , which is simpler and cheaper to service.
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 931
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 208.54.200.12


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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 6:14 pm:   

My old type failed and I replaced it with the new type which looks about like the one in your photo. As I remember it cost less than $20 but that was a couple of years ago.

The original 4104 gov was on the firewall, not the compressor and is where mine is located. It was easier to hook up there than to move it to the comp.

There are actually two different looking gov shown in the book, neither of which looks remotely like the new ones.
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Post Number: 119
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 7:55 pm:   

Problem solved. I drove up to the DD Dealer and bought a Bendix D-2. All he had was a remanufactured one - $14.19 - so I bought it. The one I had is basically identical and I was thrown off by the drawing in the book which I guess is an older version.

Thanks for your help!
Jim
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Username: River_rat

Post Number: 120
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 9:45 pm:   

Kinda solved... I put the new regulator in, fired up the old 6-71, and have no air on my dash guage - zero. I checked the air in the main system at the fitting on the bulkhead with a tire pressure guage and it pegged at about 70 psi. Went forward to the aux tank, opened the drain pit-cock, and no air whatsoever. Seems like the compressor is working, and I am guessing the pressure regulating valve is not letting air from the main to aux systems. Sound right? Looks like a fun valve to get to!
Jim
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Username: River_rat

Post Number: 121
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Posted on Monday, June 22, 2009 - 10:51 pm:   

More looking revealed the pressure regulating valve is leaking through the vent hole so I suspect the diaphram is ruptured. The reason I did not have any air to the aux is that I had the bus up last week and set the ICC valve to lock the rear brakes, and I guess when it it set, there is no air to the aux system.

Any advice on where to get a new pressure regulating valve, or can I just remove the top cover/spring assy and replace te diaphram? It is fairly easy to get to through the access hole by the drivers seat.
Thanks once again! Who says Bussin' ain't fun!
Jim
larry currier (Larryc)
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Username: Larryc

Post Number: 235
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Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 1:36 pm:   

Jim,

The TR and PR inversion and pressure protection valves may pass air and still be OK.

The TR begins to exhaust at 65 lbs. The PR 2 non turbo valve comes in 4 ranges with nominal closing pressures of 60 to 85 lbs.

Check for a part number on a tag or maybe a picture of what your valve looks like.

I don't see a rebuild kit for either of those from Bendix, but that doesn't mean there isn't one.

Compressors are noisy when the run, is it pumping?
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Post Number: 932
Registered: 11-2005
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Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2009 - 8:32 pm:   

You're correct about the ICC valve, it is for emergency only and shuts off air to the aux system.

It works the opposite of a spring brake and is not for parking. It requires air press and will not hold once the press bleeds down.

The aux system should air up once the main two tanks and air suspension fill with air. If the suspension has been down for a while it takes quite a while to fill up so be patient. Mine takes up to 20 min, especially if the wet tank in the rear is empty - it is a large tank compared to the front dry tank and the aux tank.
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Post Number: 122
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Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 12:56 am:   

Larry, I pulled the top off the valve without removing it, and the diaphram was really bad - I could feel the leak 6" from the vent hole! I talked with Luke and he did not have a rebuild kit, but has a replacement valve. I'm hoping to find a kit so I don't have to pull the valve as I worry about cross treading an air line in that tight spot. I went to Napa and bought some rubber gasket and made one in the meantime and it stopped the leak and the bus airs up to about 80psi pretty quick - best yet! I found a leak under the dash on the pass side windshield motor so thats next. My air compressor seems to be fine and I read 110 psi in the main system yesterday within a couple minutes so I am pretty sure I have leaks in the aux system. With the diaphram bad, I was not getting much air into my aux system, hence the high main pressure. On the valve, is the new one much different from the old one? I am guessing mine is original as it matches the book perfectly. As I learn about the system, it seems to be that a severely ruputured diaphram in this valve could lead to a total loss of air in the main system, saved only by the rate it can be "leaked" through the vent hole. Is that true?

Gus, I used the ICC to lock the system when I jacked it as I don't have a hand brake. I am pretty sure I have DD3 rear's as once they lock, they stay locked until I remove the ICC valve - sure seems that way. I think the DD3 has some sort of locking collar that is set with air and does not release, but I have not been under the rear yet to see! I'm gettin' there, but there is just a lot to do as I'm trying to do it right. I just finished with a full A/C rewire and re-do of all my tanks and plumbing. Never ends! Can't wait for paint.
Jim
larry currier (Larryc)
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Post Number: 237
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Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 1:32 pm:   

Jim, I'm not sure what valve we are talking about, but it sounds like you repaired it anyway.

The wiper motors all leak if the on/off switch is not all the way off or centered in the off position, so be sure you really have a motor leak before you start that job.
Jim Gibson (River_rat)
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Post Number: 123
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Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 3:30 pm:   

Larry, you are right, my switch does not go all the way off, so there is a small hissing on the motor. I have not tried to pull the switch yet, maybe today, to see what its doing.
On the valve, I was talking about the pressure control valve, just below the drivers seat - the one that airs up the aux once the main is at 65 or so. While I did repair it, it was not a legit diaphram material so I need to either find the right stuff or replace the entire valve. shouldnt be bad either way, and my temp fix will probably last for years, but I worry about air loss! Funny how crawling around inside of one of these beasts makes you appreciate just how big they are - and mine is a baby!
Jim
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Post Number: 934
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Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 4:22 pm:   

Jim,

The 4104 did not come with the DD3 parking brake system so I doubt you have one. Do not trust that ICC valve until you know for sure just exactly what you have. The ICC valve is for emergency brake application only and will only hold as long as there is good air pressure!! The manual says not to use it for parking. Always block the wheels.

My 4104 is rigged with spring parking brakes but the ICC valve has to be pulled out before the aux system will air up?? I still don't understand how it is rigged but since it works fine I decided not to mess with it. I hate working in the "black hole".

The bad part is that the ICC valved locks the rear brakes if it is pushed in!! This is far too easy to do accidentally so I blocked it up with a screw so it can't happen. It appears to me that my ICC valved is rigger backwards.

I tried a couple of times to remove it from the system but gave up.

The wiper control valves and connections are infamous for leaking. The valves have strange connections that leak after being tightened a couple of times. I had to replace a few of mine.

The wiper control valve parks the wipers when turned clockwise against a spring past the "Off" position. Do this a couple of times and the leak may stop.

I plan to add a master shutoff valve to my wipers because they are so leak prone.
Dallas (Dal300)
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Username: Dal300

Post Number: 211
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 75.88.192.62

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Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 8:38 pm:   

Jim,
The original Diaphragm was probably leather. I rebuilt mine about 5 years ago and used a piece from a silicone baking sheet.
The stuff is tough and will last just about forever.
Good Luck!

Dallas
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 12:15 am:   

Dallas,

What is a silicone baking sheet?
Dallas (Dal300)
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Post Number: 212
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Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 9:39 am:   

Gus,
Silicone baking sheets are sold at grocery stores, home centers, Walmart, Dollar Store, etc and are actually rubber sheets made out of high temperature silicone that have great expansion and contraction abilities.
I paid about $5 each for some I bought at a Kroger in South Carolina.

http://www.allbakersracks.com/Progressive-International-BMAT-10-PRI1004.html
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2009 - 10:57 pm:   

Dallas,

Thanks, even at my age I learn something new almost every day!!

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