| Author | Message | ||
| Peter River (Whitebus)
Registered Member Username: Whitebus Post Number: 114 Registered: 4-2009 Posted From: 208.54.14.49  Rating: N/A |
how thick should the insulation be? I need to insulate the bedroom area very very well. I am thinking 4-6" of styrofoam and reflective bubble wraps, I want to be able to sleep without running a generator in the summer (relying instead on a fan with a ice-evaporator system) is that even possible? | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 863 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.216.70.120  Rating: N/A |
This months Fine Home building has a good primer on insulation, open cell, closed cell and spray in. How thick?, anything up to 4 inches seems to be useful. But on a coach with the huge glass area it may be easiest to simply install a 42,000BTU (rated) and buy fuel. Warm shades are less costly and far more effective than big buck double glass replacements as the double glass is not dual pane , sealed with Argon between the glass. Many wintering folks simply use clear window plastic shrunk on inside and outside to have cheap triple layers. Still not as good as home double glazed , but 100th the cost. (relying instead on a fan with a ice-evaporator system) is that even possible? Anything is possible , if your wallet is deep enough. Practical? different question. Perhaps in just the bunk room , would take huge eutetic setup to cool a coach for 8 hours.. FF | ||
| Ron Walker (Prevost82)
Registered Member Username: Prevost82 Post Number: 388 Registered: 11-2003 Posted From: 208.181.210.47  Rating: N/A |
I have 2 1/2" insulation in the walls (1 1/2" spray foam + 1" rigid insulation over spray foam)and R14 Roxul (3 1/2") + 1 1/2 rigid insulation in the ceiling. I have double glazed tinted RV windows and it's still an oven without AC turned on, on a hot day, but it takes a lot less AC to cool it down. I don't think you can put enough insulation in a bus, not to have to run AC ... unless you live above the artic circle. There's a lot of heat comes through the front window and there's not a lot you can do about that. | ||
| Peter River (Whitebus)
Registered Member Username: Whitebus Post Number: 115 Registered: 4-2009 Posted From: 204.62.111.51 Rating: N/A |
I am ok running the AC during the day, it's just when I am asleep, I can't stand the noise and vibration. the triple layer idea sounds interesting. I can at least put a layer on the inside, and make a double pane window. | ||
| Jerry Liebler (Jerry_liebler)
Registered Member Username: Jerry_liebler Post Number: 344 Registered: 3-2005 Posted From: 98.19.232.150 Rating: N/A |
Peter, It should be possible to run a modest sized air conditioner over night on battery power (I've done it). The quietest air conditioners are ductless minisplits and they are much more energy efficient than typical rv industry junk. Block off your bedroom & bathroom area with doors, insulate with 2" of R7 then with a 9000BTU/h minisplit installed in the bedroom you could run overnight on battery. The minisplit will use about 750 watts running so planning for 6 running hours is 4500 watt hours or 375 amp hours from a 12 volt battery so an 800 amp hour battery bank should work. While I don't have a ductless minisplit for my bedroom I do have a 9000BTU window AC in my rear cap, window units are a bit less efficient but I have run it overnight on my 800 AH battery bank & it kept us cool, without turning on the generator autostart, but the overnight temperature was only in the low 80's Regards Jerry 4107 1120 | ||
| ned sanders (Uncle_ned)
Registered Member Username: Uncle_ned Post Number: 61 Registered: 5-2005 Posted From: 74.162.15.177 Rating: N/A |
Jerry I remember frost on your window at BK'S in the summer. and if i remember right you were plugged into a 15 amp circuit. good inverter and battery bank Was a good trip uncle ned |