| Author |
Message |
Keith Kroeker (Keith) (65.33.33.8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 3:22 pm: | |
Hi Everyone,
I've got a question reference venting both the black and gray tanks... Do you vent the tank under the bus (pipe from top of tank w/elbow) or do you run a vent pipe from each system through the roof like a house? Sorry if its a stupid question just unsure how to plan it and waiting for the plumbing manual to arrive :-). |
FAST FRED (209.26.115.18)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 3:30 pm: | |
I just vented the tank with 2" mostly straight up vent thru the roof.
Cheapo cap from RV place , if a branch gets it , it's only $2.00 , push on.
The run from the sinks garbage disposal and the run from the bath sink are very short 2 or 3 ft.
No smell.
FAST FRED |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 4:12 pm: | |
Keith, Here's how I did mine.
http://www.heartmagic.com/00ventstuff.jpg
The color photo is what I use above my roof- just a piece of 1-1/2" ABS sawn off at an angle, sealed with a rubber ring from a sewer coupling and some silicone. It's a neat trick I came up with- when underway it acts like a venturi of sorts, and pulls a slight vacuum on all the tanks. Not enough to pull water out of traps but definitely enough that when your wife flushes the pottie while on the freeway, ya'all don't get blasted with stench from air coming up the wrong way in the system!!!
I didn't vent the shower, and have had zero problems with that. The bathroom sink drains into the grey tank's vent line, and the two tank vent lines join slightly above the sink so contents can never get from one tank to the other. For the kitchen which is on the other side of the bus, instead of venting the sink I used one of those neat little against-the-code vacuum-breaker vent-valves that RV places have. You simply plumb the sink like normal, but instead of piercing thru the roof you install this little device about 2' higher than the sink, in the wall or behind the stove etc where it can breathe if necessary. Neat because it keeps the trap from being sucked dry with no holes needed thru the roof.
Cheers
Gary |
Keith Kroeker (Keith) (65.33.33.8)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 4:26 pm: | |
Thanks guys... any other diagrams, pics, etc are welcomed.
Keith flx-busnut@dellmail.com |
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 5:10 pm: | |
Oooohhhh... just a suggestion Keith... don't EVER post your email address like that on this board or anywhere else, unless you LOVE reams of spam. I posted mine here just once by mistake, and the result was, um, horribly spectacular... Spam harvesting robots routinely crawl boards like this and collect anything that looks like an email address, and report it to the spammers. I'll bet that you immediately begin receiving that crap, and it will get nothing but worse as your addy gets shared around the databases. Your only defense is to change addresses like I had to...
For the future, at least change the "@" to an "at" or something to try to foil them, if you absolutely must post it....
oops...
Gary |
DaveD (216.208.158.142)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 5:16 pm: | |
I have two vents through the roof, one for the black water and one for the grey water tank. I also have a vacuum vent valve for the galley sink. This is because this run to the grey water tank is farily long. I haven't had any problems with it and I am also running a dishwashher in the drain line.
Both through the roof vents are sealed with tight fitting grommets through the roof and each of them have a flanged cap assembly which attaches to the roof. I haven't had any problems with odours entering the coach.
DaveD |
David Anderson (66.90.194.129)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 8:42 pm: | |
I think code requires all vents to terminate higher than the highest trap. If a vent line turns down to exit the bottom of the coach, then the requirement is not met. The highest trap would be a sink in the coach. Since you don't want a hole in the side of the wall of the bus to look at, you'd probably position it in the roof.
I ran two on mine because I have plumbing drains on both sides of the coach.
David Anderson |
SLO (24.205.245.178)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 9:38 pm: | |
My take on plumbing vents is this.........It has nothing to do with black or gray water....Venting has to do with isolating poisonous methane gas from the living area. Regardless of tanks or being hooked up to sewer, vents should be designed so that water draining cannot suck water out of P traps. The water in P traps not only prevents possible odors entering your unit, but worse yet, gases that are odorless, but very dangerous. The most common mistake is using a vent line to drain water.
Using the under counter vents, or "Island Vents" is ok, as long as that little stainless steel spring returns the flapper to the closed position. If it fails, you will find out the hard way when your sink line clogs, and the water exceeds the height of the under counter vent.
I am currently running my DWV pipes, and from the kitchen sink, do no have a straight shot up for venting. So I am running a "T" at the wall location (where the P trap enters the wall below the sink)and instead of going straight up, I made a left turn, ran the pipe at a slope just as if it was draining water, 5 feet to a wall that takes me to the roof. This leaves the P trap isolated, and once water finishes leaving the sink, the p trap remains full, because any suction created by water running downstream is then followed by air from the vent.
As David A suggested, you could actually vent through a wall as long as it is higher than P traps, but if it happens to be near a window, you're back to square one with odor and gas problems.....
Hope that helped.
SLO |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.160.192.251)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 8:01 am: | |
There is a detailed code relative to RV tank venting. It's ANSI A119.2 available from National Fire Protection Assn. Worthwhile purchase since it also covers propane and life safety codes.
Jim |
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (64.114.233.180)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2002 - 7:38 pm: | |
While you are looking at this, you might see if it is legal to combine drains before they hit the trap. If it is, then a person might get down to one or two traps, depending on what equipment his coach has.
We bought ours with a single grey water trap and vent for the sinks and shower. It makes it a real whiz for winterinzing, because the trap has its own drain.
The other bonus is no under sink traps and more room in the cabinets. Fewer leaks, too.
Let us know what you find out.
Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher |
DaveD (206.47.206.62)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 22, 2002 - 12:34 pm: | |
I don't have my copy of the applicable standards in front of me, but if I recall correctly, a p-trap is required for each fixture.
DaveD |
Jim Ashworth (Jimnh) (172.160.102.85)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 22, 2002 - 10:41 pm: | |
ANSI A119.2 section 4-7.6.1:Each fixture shall be separately trapped...
Lots more good info in the code book.
Jim |