| Author | Message | ||
| Andrew Bowey (All2go)
Registered Member Username: All2go Post Number: 19 Registered: 12-2006 Posted From: 70.214.166.249 Rating: N/A |
Oh well I guess I had it good with only air conditioning problems. Now the Run Switch Relay (engine run control relay) in the drivers electrical panel just "clicks" with multiple clicks (sort of a grind or rattle) when I try to start the bus. I replaced the relay and the new one does the same thing. The bus had started fine seconds earlier. Although there was a 3 or 4 second delay between pushing the switch and hearing the starter engage. I shut down to put it in 1st (spicer tranny) and it did this immediately upon trying to restart. When this relay is energized it sends 24 v to the starter magnetic switch, neutral overrule switch, starter switch, engine control switch and engine stop solenoid valve as well as numerous other things like low oil relay, stop lamp etc etc. I have no idea where these are or how to check them. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be causing this relay to make the "grinding" sound, and I assume, send no power to the starter, or is it a bad starter? (Message edited by all2go on July 03, 2009) | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 373 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 74.244.14.221  Rating: N/A |
I would bet on low voltage or bad ground. Not necesarily low battery but a bad connection somewhere. | ||
| Andrew Bowey (All2go)
Registered Member Username: All2go Post Number: 20 Registered: 12-2006 Posted From: 74.190.52.218 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Tim, I will start checking. | ||
| macgyver (91flyer)
Registered Member Username: 91flyer Post Number: 445 Registered: 11-2004 Posted From: 74.193.225.243  Rating: N/A |
OOOO! XD Try energizing the positive BUS bar in the back engine panel and using the rear start switch. If it pops off, then you have the same problem I had... The cross-feed between the two breaker panels broke (or, in your case, not completely but enough)... Use a heavy gauge wire, run it between the positive post on your alternator up to the BUS bar. But make sure you energize the BAR itself, and not something after the breakers (just in case)... If your panel is the same as mine, it'll be almost dead center in the panel where the breakers are, and the bar looks like most of the breakers are connected together on one side... THAT is what you'll want to energize. If she pops off, then you'll be stuck making that fix more permanent by wiring it in and sealing it off until you can run a new tie-line from the front panel to the rear panel... I haven't done that yet, but it's in the plans for when I am doing the rebuild of my coach after the fire... Love to know your results... -Mac | ||
| Andrew Bowey (All2go)
Registered Member Username: All2go Post Number: 21 Registered: 12-2006 Posted From: 70.221.186.124 Rating: |
Thanks all, it was a corroded bad ground. Sometimes we have to be told the obvious before we smack our forehead with our palm and shout "Duh". It cranks on the first turn now, how sweet is that sound! | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 374 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 74.244.14.221 Rating: N/A |
No worries Andrew....sometimes it's easier to come up with ideas when you don't have the emotional involvement of your own coach. |
