Author |
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Roger Baughman (Roger)
Registered Member Username: Roger
Post Number: 119 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 69.232.70.176
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 12:27 pm: | |
I tryed the archives but could find no good info on this. I want to install a seperate a/c system for a driver and passenger seat specific cool air. Starting with a belt driven alternator off the 8v71 to two 12 volt batteries to a 12 volt inverter. I currantly have a new 24 volt alternator. My question is, can I use this 24 volt alternator to charge the batteries and also use the 12 volt inverter? I am assuming that I will need somesort of a reduction device to reduce the 24 volts to 12. I just don't know if this can be done or should I just get a auto type 12 volt alternator? |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 920 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.18
Rating: Votes: 1 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 1:18 pm: | |
Roger, My advice is to sell the 12-volt inverter and get a 24-volt model, rather than try to trade the 24-volt alternator out or do any voltage conversions. The reasons are numerous:
- The DC cables from the alternator to the batteries and from the batteries to the inverter will be much smaller (cheaper and easier to wrestle into place, and less weight in the bus) for 24 volts than 12.
- High-power alternators are heftier and more expensive in 12-volt than 24. (24 volt can make more power in the same frame.)
- 24-volt inverters are available in higher power ratings than 12-volt models, and you'll need plenty to start and run air conditioners.
- Converting between DC voltages, especially for a high-power application, will cost you 10-20% of your power budget, and require yet another expensive and bulky device.
I would expect you would not pay much more for a refurbished 24-volt inverter than you would get on, say, eBay for your 12-volt model. I also strongly suggest you take this opportunity to upgrade to a true sine wave model (if you have not already) to run air conditioners. HTH, -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb
Post Number: 375 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 74.244.14.221
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 4:42 pm: | |
Just to think outside the box a little. For the expense involved in doing this electrically I would think you could do an automotive style belt driven compressor AC system for the front for a lot less. The maintenance facility I have the bus serviced at sells complete systems installed or will sell you all the parts to install yourself for around a $1000. Supposed to be large enough to cool the front third of the coach. |
Chuck Newman (Chuck_newman)
Registered Member Username: Chuck_newman
Post Number: 377 Registered: 1-2005 Posted From: 75.15.95.46
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 8:38 pm: | |
Sean, Since you're on the subject, what AWG welding cable would you recommend for batteries-to-4kw inverter (MS4024), at a length of 14 feet? 4024 max rated input battery current 204 ADC. The manual is not specific on sizing vs length. Thanks. |
Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean
Post Number: 921 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.41
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, July 05, 2009 - 9:39 pm: | |
Chuck, I like 4/0 for the 4024, however, 2/0 will give you an acceptable voltage drop of 2.1% at 200 amps for your 14' run, at 50°C. (4/0 will yield a 1.3% drop at that length.) I also prefer DLO to welding cable. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com |
Roger Baughman (Roger)
Registered Member Username: Roger
Post Number: 120 Registered: 11-2006 Posted From: 69.232.70.176
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, July 06, 2009 - 2:05 am: | |
Thanks to all for your info and advice, Roger |