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Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Username: Garylee

Post Number: 199
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 64.12.116.203

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Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 10:44 pm:   

some time ago someone posted on one of the bb'ds about a radiator misting system already in a kit form from Napa I think I remember. anyhow, I cannot find the post and if any of you know of it please post it in this thread for me so I can have a part number etc. and take a look at it. I Know some of you believe this is not necessary but it is my choice at this stage of my conversion I do want to do Just in case I may ever need it.

Thanks ahead of time for your help in finding this information for me. I lose my patience at searching archieve's and heck, I can't even remeber what bb'd I read it on.

Thanks again,
Gary
Mark Renner (Boomer)
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Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 11:22 pm:   

Hayden has what you are looking for. Go to www.haydenauto.com Click on "radiator mist system". Called the Rapid Cool Radiator Mist System. You will probably have to order from a distributor, like CarQuest
Ednj (Ednj)
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Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 11:53 pm:   

http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Products-Radiator%20Mist%20System/Content.aspx

http://www.examiner.com/x-4824-Tampa-Sports-Car-Examiner~y2009m3d10-Cheap-intercooler-spra y-kit

http://intercoolermister.com/sprayer.asp

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/aftermarketparts/Intercoolers/Intercooler_Spray_Kits


Gary,
It will be nice to see your bus at the Delaware Rally.
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2009 - 11:59 pm:   

And remember the water usage (capacity??)....in some circumstances, could be significant...

FWIW

RCB
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 7:50 am:   

And remember the water usage (capacity??)....in some circumstances, could be significant...


Also remember this is only a Patch , not in anyway a cure for maint.

It might pay to overhaul the radiator , clean the cooling system , or do whatever is required to get the cooling system Back in shape.

If the overheating is caused by an engine transplant ,new defuler injectors , or a higher turbo pressure , a better cooling systen might make a better long term investment.

After 35+ years of service , why a mister now?

A seperiate water supply with only distilled water might let you go longer before removing mineral buildup from the outside of the radiator.

FF
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Post Number: 200
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Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 6:53 pm:   

Fred,
I Have taken my radiator completely apart, cleaned every core out and got maybe a 10 inch round by 2 inch high pile of dried calcium & other junk out of it in the process. I have straightened every fin that was bent or damaged over years and plan to paint it but not sure of what type of paint to lightly coat it with that is used to still allow the cooling of the radiator core.

The real reason to put in the mister is an after thought I have had for the years I have been working on our bus. It is just an added precaution I may have to never use but I have the opportunity to install it now and will. I have no idea the shape my entire bus is in as it has been driven only from where I purchased it to my home and it has been sitting on blocks every since. So I do not have any experience as you may have or any other veteran bus owners has but I am taking in advisment what others has done and it all makes a lot of sence to me if I ever get to finish this project.

I have already built a 30 gallon storage tank that I plan to plumb into the mister system if needed for emergency cooling, again, if needed. The mister system will be use on hill climbs this ole girl may struggle with etc. only. I do not have plans at this time to have the system activated all the time, only when she starts to heat up and huff and puff for a little cooler system such a band aid is used to cover welding burn on your arm.

With all do respect Fred, I will complete my conversion using ideas from others more versed in this hobby than I & use any ideas I can that I invent and have done with many ideas that may or may not help our eagle bus life span. Who knows, I may never need the mister system but I always have 30 extra gallons of distilled water on board for me or anyone else on the road that may have an overheating problem needing help.

Thanks for the concern Fred, I assure you, I am taking my time and do a lot of thinking of my conversion process and future maintenance of our bus.
Thanks again,

Ed,
We will not be able to attend the Delaware Rally in August as we have a big trip planned just weeks from that period and the $$ will be a little tight. We will try to plan to stop on our way up though on this trip and keep you informed of when we will be coming so maybe any one wanting to get together within driving distance of Bruce's place all can. We sure miss you guys and hope this can happen.

Oh Ed, thanks for the links for the Mister Systems also. Your a pal.

Safe Traveling everyone,
Gary

(Message edited by garylee on July 19, 2009)
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 7:52 pm:   

-don't forget to flush & clean the engine cooling jacket as it will likely have years of insulating crude , much like those dirty old radiators.
Of course all bus engines do come equipped with a emergency system for overheating the compromised cooling system, it is located between your foot & the fuel pedal; with a back up system called downshifting to increase engine rpm during maximum power demand on those long slow hill ascents. All free for the thinking for others that don't have a mister system added on.
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 8:56 pm:   

A misting system is cheap insurance for those occasional times that your engine is running hotter than desired on an unusually hot day or extremely long climb. If you need it most of the time, then you have problems that should be addressed with cooling system repairs or upgrades., or reduced injector size as Fred says.
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2009 - 9:26 pm:   

Clint...I am amazed...and pleasantly surprised at your wisdom and valued approach...Thanx for it.

Gsry. from this point of view, FF offers only good practical advice. Whether or not one chooses to take it in that vein is another subject altogether. Never have known him to have much of an axe to grind, though I must admit (perhaps not a good choice of words) that from time to time some tend to think him an egotist. Not so IMHO.

Life's experiences give one many things to talk about. Seems to me, all that is presented on this board is "valuable"....take it ....or leave it...as one will. Meantime, it is "information" that we can "sort out"... to our benefit or liability.....helpful...someone's experience or garbage.... from one's own personal point of view. Choices we have been freely given, not necessarily requiring retribution,cynicism or inuendo. Beginning with me, we are not all perfect. Spelling, grammar and proper English usage included.

I know you appreciated his input....just tell him (or anyone) so....right or wrong, in your own mind.

Technical advice is another subject altogether....right is right...wrong is wrong. Sorting out the difference is often "the problem".

Off the "box" ...for now....what a great board Ian...and participants. :-)

Thanx MUCH

RCB
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:08 am:   

some of you people are lucky you have met FF which i have not as he hangs out on the east coast and i am on the west coast. it is very good to have a person like him here on the board as he knows the differance between NC and NF when it comes to nuts and bolts, he all ways seems to give a very good answer as he sees it how ever like he says - it is your bus do it your way, now to the mister system- they are very easy to make and you do not need a big water tank as they require very little water.they are cheap to make, just a pieece of 3/4pvc pipe the width of the rad 3 or 4 of the little nozels that you can get at home depot or irrig. store, a end cap and a threaded fitting for the other end and some 1/4 plastic line. you can hook up to your existing water line and just wire in a switch that you can use to turn on water pump when misting is required. just place a shut off valve in the 1/4 mister line so you do not loose water whe using the water for other things. used only if required will require very little water and the amount of deposite is very small. now as to my spelling or some elses- to bad, put a NF nut on a NF bolt now i am mad.
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:14 am:   

RCB
I have the highest respect for FF and have for the past 6 years as he was one of the first busnuts I kept track of when I bought our bus. I still have copies of many of his posts on bb'ds in my records of comments of conversion process to use as a guide. Please don't think I am being critical in anyway of suggestions FF or anyone offers me in particular, I certainly do not have any intention to disrespect anyone more experienced than I at our hobby. Sometimes some suggestions or ideas work better for someone than they do for everyone. I always try to pass on to others through this bb'd communication any idea that works good for me for those to also try or consider, not that they have to though.

There are many busnuts intput I evaluate before making any decisions on my conversion, from Fred Hobe, Jack Conrad, Florida Pete, Jim Shephard, great Eagle Information from Eagle owners at www.eaglesinternational.com & FF just to name a few I look up to. These guys can and will give you the straight skinny on things, as you said, the final decision has to be the converters himself to make.

RJ, Thanks for your input as well as FF.

Cliff,
Thanks so much for reminding me to flush my entire system, I have to figure out how to do that and remove any old 7 year old debree etc. that may be laying in my system after sitting all that time on blocks. I have removed the surge tank and hoses but flushing out the system will be a little challenge to prevent a mess if I can. I'll figure it out when that time comes. I spend a lot of time thinking of stuff like this but a new set of eyes can help you remember to do something you overlook, thanks again.
Gary

(Message edited by garylee on July 20, 2009)
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:38 am:   

There is a product we use for a variety of things that might be of some interest for "flushing". Where we live, the water is very hard; leaves lots of calcium buildup.

Dal-tile and any professional tile supply probably has Sulfamic Acid....it replaces Phosphoric Acid these days, for whatever reason. Not expensive and should do a good job. We use it on shower,lavatory and tub fixtures, as well as many other applications. HD, Lowes, etc do not carry it.

I have used it for radiators, but am considering it when I flush in the fall.

FWIW

RCB
Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 8:03 pm:   

Detroit sells a two part flush agent exactly for our engines.

An acid and a neutralizer.

Advice on the ground is to stir up the powder using hot water. Get a big barrel, over twice the size of your cooling system, so as to mix the drain off together to neutralize the whole mess.

Lots of flushing with water, and you are cleaned out.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
AL (Proudeagle10)
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Posted on Monday, July 20, 2009 - 10:18 pm:   

Dave Miller owner of "Texas Coustom Coach" in Pipe Creek Tx. put a 16 blade fan on his Eagle 10. That thing has so much suction, that you can stand 6 feet from the Rad. drop a paper, and it will suck it up. I talked to Dave, not to long ago, he said, he did have overheating problems. But not since he installed the 16 blade fan. I'm thinking of going that route on my Eagle 10. Dave Miller PH# 830-510-4224

AL
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 4:44 am:   

as long as the bigger fan does not over strain the parts connected to it, might be a consideration with this modification
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 10:37 am:   

several good ideas & information coming out of this post after all. Thanks to all.
Gary
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 10:48 am:   

Bus Warrior,
I am wondering what to do to contain the waste from rinseing out the entire system, the old contaminated coolant etc. & the Acid and Neutralizer. I just do not want to dump it in my yard, my neighbors are real understanding to my hobby and the noise and mess at times etc. I sure do not want to offend them and have bad feelings. I am not sure of my feelings if someone else did that next door to me. I wouldn't mind so much if he was a bus nut!!

Getting plastic barrels to contain the waste from flushing out my coolant system sounds smart. Then what to do with maybe handling and transporting 100 or more gallons of coolant / acid rinse?

I am open to ideas from those that have done this, I do not live in a desert area that my actions would not offend anyone.

Thanks again,
Gary
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 1:06 am:   

nor do you want the liability of a enviromental clean up- consult the local big rad shops for advice on what they do with there waist.
RJ Long (Rjlong)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 3:33 am:   

". . . for advice on what they do with there waist."

My guess, like most other folk, they start watching their diets and begin working out at the gym!

LOL!!


Sorry, Clint, couldn't resist. . . :-)
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 6:43 am:   

Where we live, the water is very hard; leaves lots of calcium buildup.

No matter where you live antifreez and DISTILLED WATER is what should be in your cooling system.

Tap is Crap , penny wise and BIG BUCKS foolish!

FF

(Message edited by FAST FRED on July 22, 2009)
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 10:08 am:   

Thanks again Fred,
I plan to use nothing but distilled water & recommended coolant for our 8V71 two stroke engines. I will also as I stated in this post have a tank with 30 gallons of distilled water on board at all times if I need it or someone else broken down etc. I had a huge pile of calcium after rodding out my radiator, I have no idea how the coolant was even circulating to be honest. I hope after all this preparation I do not really need it. Oh, My storage tank for the distilled water is coated inside with 3 coats of rustbullet for added protection from rusting etc. The distilled water tank was designed to fit between the bogie wheel area,& is under the tank I fabricated for my Black / gray water tank. This freed up much room in my baggage compt. and utilized the storage area between the bogie wheels.
Gary
Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 11:15 am:   

with a 30 gallon tank if you use it just when needed you will have enough water to make a return trip across the country and still have enough to wash the car when you get home. just get the mister mozels with small out put and drill and thread them into the pvc pipe. mount the pipe across the top of the rad and hook up your water line which needs only to be 1/4 in hose then use a snall cheap water pump then the hose into a gallon jug of distiled water. locate these as close to the rad as you can for a trial test. now run a wire to the driver seat and put a switch in line to power the punp. now take the bus for a test drive or even just sit in the yard and do a test to see how long it takes to use the gallon of water. start with only 2 nozell to start and add more if needed to cool the rad. just rember it is not good to have a DD sit idling to watm the motor so a road trip is best. just have someone watch the water jug to check when it gets empty. now you will realize a 30 gal. is way too big. 30 gal x 10=300 pounds plus tank weight is a lot to carry when you only need it near the top of a steep hill where all this extra weight is not needed, my bubby only carries a couple gal. to go from Port Angles WA to Tucson AZ and always has a gl. when he gets there and uses the same amount going home. if you want call me if you want more info. mel 4104 phone #1 250 248 2766
Gary LaBombard (Garylee)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 12:31 pm:   

Thanks Mel for the misting tip. I will see if my wife can keep up running on the side of the bus with me to keep track of the amount of water used. Only kidding, just for a laugh. My intent to have the tank that size was to take up that extra room that only a special fabricated tank would fit into. Also, having this amount of water will assure I can use it in the radiator also if needed when on the road and as I have stated to assist others if needed when they run low on water etc. or what ever the need is. If I do not need that amount I will let it deplete to a less volume to conserve the weight factor you mention.

I can't wait to get to do my test drive, just to drive it even!! I ought to video take my first trip, I am sure it will be like watching the movie "RV". LOL
Thanks again Mel for the contact number also. I will start with two nozzels as you have suggested.
Gary
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 9:10 am:   

just remember that you are MISTING the radiator, not spraying it. It should be like the misting that some grocery stores use on the fresh veggies. At this rate,you get the greatest benefit from evaporative cooling of the water on the fins as it draws out the heat; this isn't the proper technical wording, but you get what I mean, and actually use a fairly small amount of water.
ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)
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Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 9:29 am:   

The most effective system will be one that produces a foglike effect out in front of your radiators. It will cool the air without any actual water droplets ending up on your radiator fins. The jets will atomize the water rather than producing a spray like they use in grocery stores.
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 9:44 am:   

Gary,I don't get into mister debate but Eagles if the system is maintained they don't have a cooling problem.
Living here in the desert I have 16 blade fan with a 2 speed fan clutch (Horton) when I need more cooling I just turn the fan on high (very seldom).
Fwiw the ones on the trucks I was told by a DD Dealer they were to cool the air on the air to air charger on the turbo engines

good luck

good luck

(Message edited by luvrbus on July 25, 2009)
Jack Campbell (Blue_goose)
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Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2009 - 10:41 am:   

I have used misters for about 10 years. Had to put one on when the 8v92 went in the bus. Didn't have to use it a lot, but it did keep from having to slow down on the hills. I use the water from our main water tank that always has the pump on for pressure. The most cost was a 12volt brass water solenoid. All of the mister parts came from Lowes at very little cost. Small plastic line to valve and then the mister. It uses so little water that you will never miss it. Sometimes I have forgotten to turn it off and found it when we stop. Like others have said is (it is a mister)
Jack
Tom Christman (Tchristman)
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Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 11:45 pm:   

I have increased my radiator to a 6 row serpentine core radiator (largest available) and it will still overheat at temps over 90 degrees. With the turbo and air to air intercooler, there is just too much heat for the radiator (unless I added another radiator). I added 15 misters from Home Depot plumbed through my water system (just have to remember to leave the water pump on) with an electric solenoid valve with a switch on the dash to operate it. Even so, on this recent trip, I still had to stop at times climbing 8% grades in 100 degree weather to let it cool. With the misters, it only took about 5 minutes each time to cool from 200 to 180 and then proceed. Without the misters, more like 15 minutes to cool. And yes, I have to hit the radiator with CLR at the end of the heat season to melt off the calcium build up, but it is relatively easy to do. Good Luck, TomC
Clint Hunter (Truthhunter)
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Posted on Thursday, July 30, 2009 - 9:26 pm:   

...again with my favorite multi-purpose cleaner; simple green is the most effect de-calcifier I have found, effectiveness wise, dollar wise and health wise.
..Did a lot of comparison on a lot of applications in the last 30 years, since my first sample of simple green.
.kind of wish I had picked up those share offers on the stuff way back then !
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Saturday, August 01, 2009 - 7:23 pm:   

How much calcium build up you get is going to be dependent on how hard your water is. You could probably use softened water in your tanks if you have it and fill from home.
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Saturday, August 01, 2009 - 11:02 pm:   

I am convinced...after 12 years of "living with it" that water that has been softened chemically, as in a house system, exacerbates any calcium build up problem...attest our faucets, swamp cooler pads, etc, etc, etc.

Could be wrong, I suppose, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it...:-)

We have learned to use distilled water whereever it might make a difference...Irons, steamers, vehicle radiators,etc. Replaced too many fixtures the first few years; here in Third World...southern NM, the water is hard as nails.

FWIW

RCB

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