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Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
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Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 214
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 10:17 am:   

Just a small update. I think I finally have some movement!! Maybe all that running around helped this summer. I took the tag wheel off, took the shock off and placed a jack between the shock mounts and started applying pressure. It was getting late and dark last night but I just had to try. To my surprise the tag started moving down. Not smoothy , but any stretch of the imagination but never the less it moved several inches. I placed the jack underneith to try to jack it back up but it did not move, only the bus itself started jacking up. That's when I called it a day. So I do believe (hope) I will have this problem resolved within the next few evenings.

Grant
clint hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 385
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.232.232


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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 10:48 am:   

don't forget to check the hard to inspect frame for cracks "after all the running around with a seized tag axle" as that could also be part of your movement, frame flex. Hope not , but that is what may happen when you don't know & follow your drivers manual , which was quoted the previous thread on this matter , roughly. (not aimed at the busshog, but more for archive scanners down the road, [insert {"smiley-face" }here]

>"eye does just love being wrong" so tell me I been wrong again here anyone !

<Don't forget the SAFE application of the old heat wrench , even crusty old (shredded bearing impregnated) grease has a melt point, and do have that fire extinguisher handy if using a propane torch or other open flame to get thngs flowing & flushed.

...keep on bus patch-up-ing...
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
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Username: Jackconrad

Post Number: 1148
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 70.6.17.93


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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 12:29 pm:   

Grant,
Although I have not done it, I have heard of people removing the grease zerk, intalling a fitting connected to a garden sprayer and pumping WD-40 or diesel fuel into the tag axle to flush it out. After freed up, fill with fresh grease.
On our MC-8, each side of the tag axle is separate, so grease from the drivers side cannot get to passenger side. In fact, no grease can get into the center section of the tag axle crossover tube. Jack
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
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Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 215
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 2:01 pm:   

Excellent advice! Thanks guys. I too have given quite a bit of thought of trying to get diesel fuel into it. I believe this would really help. In fact I have been thinking of trying to fill it with diesel and let it sit for the winter. Thanks for letting me know that it won't transfer over to the other side, this was a big negative for me, and you have know answered another question, thanks.
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
Registered Member
Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 216
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 2:03 pm:   

Oh by the way Clint, do you know where the frame is most likely to crack , rought?? re the tag axle?
Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
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Username: Ralph7

Post Number: 41
Registered: 3-2004
Posted From: 206.251.12.226

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Posted on Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - 10:04 pm:   

Center section is bolted to frame. Remember the bearing (bronze bushing) is a foot long. The outside clamp has split brass thrust bearings, and a large O-ring. IF you were to try to heat it you would need several rose bud tips an 4 hands. Do not heat and allow to cool quickly it will shrink. Do you have a parts book?
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
Registered Member
Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 217
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 1:06 pm:   

No I don't have a parts book,Jack had mentioned to me that this bushing is a foot long. I am going to try to move it back a forth without heat if I can. I had taken the outside clamp apart before we went on our summer trips to get new grease into it. I do believe it is the long bushing that is giving me grief. I borrowed a tool that should help pull it together. I hoping after moving it back and forth several times it will get easier and I will keep applying grease throughout the procdure.
Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
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Username: Jackconrad

Post Number: 1153
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 70.6.110.138


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Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 1:10 pm:   

Grant,
The tag axle is steel and if water gets in there is causes rust. The rust particles will sometimes bind between the axle and the bronze bushing. Jack
clint hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 390
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.232.219


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Posted on Thursday, August 20, 2009 - 3:49 pm:   

...more by the math buspig, not as much by experience

- in such a untypical loading, I would inspect the frame junction at the top of diagonal channel weld to the top/rear-side of the big down leg (has the control arm pivots welded to it,for the "frame end" of the control arms . This diagonal brace terminates on top of the engine "frame rail"

>getting the dirt flushed out first , then go in with one of those endoscope thingys (or borescope for the pro-grease monkeys).
Not sure if your nine went to full stainless (the 8 had plenty of rusty boiler plate to go along with the fatigue cracks at the weld. I ended up removing my fiberglass wheel wells to do the repairs... not just 4 rivets, but at least it is done...

I did flush out the down leg & coated it with corrosion inhibitor after all was restored, as should be done , but the keep word is after the welding, as you never know what kind of off gassing your making with these modern corrosion inhibitor...

> For my math, that is the most vulnerable, others such as BW may have more to add, as he has probably operated on many , many such fractures in his day.

> at the least a good bit of hammer banging and a good ear and finger tips in the right location ( not under the hammer target) will indicate if it is broken free from the top weld

... hope this make your bus happy, and does not leave you scratching your head on "in-route".
Grant Thiessen (Busshawg)
Registered Member
Username: Busshawg

Post Number: 218
Registered: 10-2007
Posted From: 206.45.93.160


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Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 10:15 am:   

Thanks once again guys, the frame does look to be in reasonable condition, some flaking but not soft.

Jack that makes alot of sense, as last night I moved it up and down at least 25 times, each time moving it down with a jack and pulling it back up with that tool I borrowed. It is moving easier but it is still on the tough side. Does not go down with the air bag yet. I noticed it was tougher near the extreme bottom and top. The grease is just barely starting to go completly around the clamp area. I ran out of grease so I will pick up another case today and keep going. It does make a snapping noise as it moves in stages, although not nearly as bad as when I first started. I am tending to change my opinion of where the problen lies , as I am placing one of my hands in several different places while I am moving it and it feels like the majority of the problem is in the back half of the clamp area, which is also where the grease hasn't really penetrated as of yet. I may just end up taking it apart and cleaning it.
clint hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 398
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.232.219


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Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 4:18 pm:   

snapping must be pinpointed before going back into service, in reality with a disassembly, a bushing worn through will do that, which means you may already have worn the steel parts and have a even bigger repair on your hands.

...safety first; affordability is a consequence not the prime directive under common buslaw...

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