| Author | Message | ||
| Douglas Tappan (Dougthebonifiedbusnut)
Registered Member Username: Dougthebonifiedbusnut Post Number: 103 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.69.223.64  Rating: N/A |
I am moving along nicely with the bathroom and am ready to glue the fiberglass panels to the plywood walls. I need suggestions as to the best adhesive to use. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 758 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.54.207 Rating: N/A |
Doug, I used fiberglass resin the advice was given to me from a boat builder good luck | ||
| larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc Post Number: 273 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 64.12.116.203 Rating: N/A |
Doug, you sure have an awsome looking Crown. Nice to hear you are comming along so well. Keep up the good work, I'm sure you are an inspiration to Crown owners everywhere. Years after alot of our other brand buses are scrapped, I'm sure the old Crown will still be going over the mountain. When you die, you can will me the Crown and I will give it a spot inside the shop for eternity for you!!! | ||
| Tom Christman (Tchristman)
Registered Member Username: Tchristman Post Number: 113 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 66.218.33.156 Rating: N/A |
I used Dupont 90 spray adhesive that is a contact cement. The only downside is that you have to get it right the first time. A couple of practice runs is a good idea with a friend helping. I used Kemlite in my bathroom ceiling, walls and shower stall. That was 15 years ago and is still holding tight. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 939 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.202.165.190  Rating: N/A |
Epoxy is probably the best , esp if you need some time to position the parts. The epoxy will also work well at sealing any surface or edge that may get wet at times. RUBBER gloves are a requirement , as an allergy to the hardener is built into most folks. You must sand or wash the fiberglass as a wax is used too harden the surface as its being made. Titebond 3 also is good for wood to many things , but PL style is needed for really different style surfaces , aluminum to formica . FF (Message edited by FAST FRED on September 06, 2009) | ||
| don goldsmith (Bottomacher)
Registered Member Username: Bottomacher Post Number: 262 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 74.232.43.155 Rating: N/A |
If you mean FRP panels, why not use the FRP cement that is made for it? | ||
| William Garamella (Nh_wanderer)
Registered Member Username: Nh_wanderer Post Number: 20 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 24.62.162.30  Rating: N/A |
Why not this product? Liquid Nails - TUB SURROUND & SHOWER WALLS ADHESIVE (LOW-VOC) (LN-715) http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=62 I suspect there are super heavy duty structural epoxies etc, that are stronger, but might those be overkill? How much strength do you really need for this? NH Bill | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 979 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.81.151  Rating: N/A |
The urethane/polyurethane construction adhesives will stick anything to anything, and stay stuck. It dries slow enough to move things until it's where you want it.. I use Loctite Universal "TAC" adhesive. It's a urethane based product. It comes in a caulk gun type tube, and has been good for any repairs requiring glue. You're doin' great! Stick to it. | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 1156 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.57.227.193  Rating: N/A |
I use a urethane based constuction adhesive, It holds very well but remains a little more pliable than VOC based construction adhesives such as Liquid Nails Jack | ||
| clint hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 465 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.237.52  Rating: N/A |
which may be in part to the claim of a "potential longer" life at rated strengths, under ideal conditions and less "potential slow chemical or electrolytic reactions at the join surfaces. -VOC based adhesives tend to be easier to clean up if not yet set-up. No comment on the level of toxins emitted over the life span, as that depends on each formula and how it is used for every type & compound. ...bus can be made to last forever, perhaps; is the job your commiting going to last its design life of the component/system your working on ??? | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 906 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.211.36.122 Rating: N/A |
PL is a good choice. Also Sikaflex. They both have a variety of products. Used both for many years...along with others, of course. They're my choice. FWIW RCB | ||
| Douglas Tappan (Dougthebonifiedbusnut)
Registered Member Username: Dougthebonifiedbusnut Post Number: 104 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 75.69.223.64 Rating: N/A |
Thakks All, I think I'll go with the Liquid Nails stuff like William suggested.Thank you Larry for your kind and inspireing words.As all of you know it's a labor of love, and I do love my bus. |