| Author | Message | ||
| Edward J. Sommers (Sommersed)
Registered Member Username: Sommersed Post Number: 48 Registered: 10-2004 Posted From: 148.63.161.138 Rating: N/A |
For those with hard starting rigs, heres a nice helper https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009091823485203&item=28-1717 Ed | ||
| Jim Wallin (Powderseeker01)
Registered Member Username: Powderseeker01 Post Number: 35 Registered: 10-2008 Posted From: 208.68.48.77  Rating: N/A |
What a mean thing to do to your poor ole DD. I think that I'll stick with my pre-heater. | ||
| Greg Roberts (Eagle 20) (Gregeagle20)
Registered Member Username: Gregeagle20 Post Number: 271 Registered: 4-2002 Posted From: 66.18.167.76 Rating: N/A |
My NJ Transit Eagle Model 20 came with one of these gadgets and it is activated by the DDEC system. I have never used it, however and have always left an empty can installed. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 775 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.54.207 Rating: N/A |
The units they have for sale are too small for a V type Detroit anyway they are for small diesel engines good luck | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1706 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.71.102.68  Rating: N/A |
The older Kysor units had a temperature probe tucked under a bolt on the block. It would only squirt when the block was cold enough. The nice thing about this unit is that it provides the proper ration of starting fluid. Spraying by hand with the can is too easily overdone. Mine remains installed, with the wires disconnected, on reserve for that culminating winter equipment failure.... happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 950 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.202.165.190  Rating: N/A |
Under 32F it may be used , otherwise avoid it. As noted a block heater is MAJIC , and has no engine , ring , piston destroying downside. FF | ||
| Mel La Plante (Mel_4104)
Registered Member Username: Mel_4104 Post Number: 139 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 154.5.117.139 Rating: N/A |
do the math---a can of starting fluid= $7 which will quickly become over $8,000 when you. have too rebuild your engine. the starting fluid washes all the oil off the inside of the piston sleeve walls and the rings, now the piston is traveling up and down on dry walls which ruin the piston rings and score the walls of the sleeves. if you shoot in too little it will not start the motor, give it too much and you can break a piston or rings when that motor screams as the big bang you hear is in the motor, the ecko is the money you just wasted. in other words DO NOT use starting fluid. if the motor is so sick that you think you should use it , well it is going to be a lot sicker after you do and very expensive. the repair shop love guys that use starting fluid as they know that anyone bumb enough to use they can charge big bucks to fix it. around here if you come on the job with a can starting fluid they tell you to put it in your lunch bucket and take it to the next place you get a job as you are no longer working here, your FIRED. as FF stated motors love block heaters and they work like majic, all our equipment have block heaters and they get pluged in any time the temp. is 45 degrees or lower and warm up for at least 1/2 hr before starting, and the are not expensive or hard to instal.. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 459 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 70.60.107.113  Rating: N/A |
Thank you, Mel. My experience has only been with light-duty diesels and that's exactly the situation with them and starting fluid. Thanks for confirming that the same effects apply to large engines, too. I have never even considered using starting fluid in my bus -- and won't. I will have a way to run the block heater off the generator, though. | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 418 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62  Rating: N/A |
In the marine world I was always tought to use WD-40 as an alternate. Is htat still valid advice? | ||
| clint hunter (Truthhunter)
Registered Member Username: Truthhunter Post Number: 499 Registered: 1-2009 Posted From: 24.129.237.52  Rating: N/A |
I wounder how effective WD-40 is at real cold tempatures, where it loses volatitlity ? | ||
| John and Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
Registered Member Username: Bigrigger Post Number: 258 Registered: 9-2007 Posted From: 24.183.22.6  Rating: N/A |
I don't want to play the devil's advocate or step on any toes, but I have had GMC tractors with detroit engines straight from the factory with ether injection or ether egg starting assist. I guess I never saw it do any damage and used them for years, but I will agree it could be overdone with a can if you didn't know what you were doing. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1642 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157  Rating: N/A |
go for it John... full moons coming. Fred, what if you don't have access to electricity and temp dropped overnight to 30 degrees? As with most things; done properly, it works fine. Block heater is much better option though. Anyway, everyone knows that spray ether is actually for seating tire beads....come on moon....... | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1711 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.135.14 Rating: N/A |
30 degrees? Wow, mine starts with 40 wt in it at the freezing point. Need to be closer to 0 degrees than 30 degrees for starting trouble to be evident. Now, the old Perkins on the farm tractor, there's a line drawn in the sand from around 28 degrees. 10 to 15 minutes on the block heater, or no start. As usual, extremes let you know the real story. Ruling out insufficient battery power or cabling problems, the ability to cold start looks to be as good as a compression test in determining what you have left? happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 55 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 206.251.5.175 Rating: N/A |
Big R had those on all trucks,and after a certain date part of PM you tested the either start system. Weighed the can,tested spray,(disconnected the line at the manifold)by the way the the nozzleis in the center of the manifold, sprays 2 ways. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 956 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.202.165.190 Rating: N/A |
At +30F and below the ether is an ALTERNATE fuel, and works fine. But remember the Hound drivers only got one or two caps to use , not a can full. With 8D's rather than tiny truck batts at 30 the unit can be started by simple technique , no ether or block heater. Crank for 15-20 seconds , wait 45 seconds , repeat this process and they will usually go on the 3rd or 4th try. If it wont , the compression is way low and block heater or ether is only choice. On the 3rd try it WILL smoke on start up from the fuel in the cylinders (about a min to clear). FF | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 778 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.54.207 Rating: N/A |
Guys, the starting fluid of today contains only about 25% ether where back in the day it was 100% it is not going to hurt a engine when used right | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1649 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157 Rating: N/A |
If the engine has advanced timing, it won't start as easily at colder temps without "an assist". Only 25%? No wonder kids today don't inhale it. They now include upper cylinder lube in it from most brands. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 958 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 76.202.165.190 Rating: N/A |
" the starting fluid of today contains only about 25% ether where back in the day it was 100% " Kind of like those 1lb bags of coffee that weigh 12 oz? FF |