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Darrell Black, DVM (Darrelldvm)
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Username: Darrelldvm

Post Number: 49
Registered: 6-2005
Posted From: 209.78.171.84

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Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 10:05 am:   

For attaching components to the rear of the engine (air compressor, steering pump, generator, etc) what do you put on the gasket prior to assembly? I'm trying to stop those annoying leaks.
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Username: Luvrbus

Post Number: 773
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.33.54.207

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Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 12:35 pm:   

If using new DD gaskets nothing also stay away from silicone use a aviation Permatex if you use anything

good luck
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Username: Chessie4905

Post Number: 1638
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 71.58.71.157


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Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 1:35 pm:   

"I'm trying to stop those annoying leaks"...BWAHAHAHAHA- They don't run right unless they leak.
Tim (Timkar)
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Username: Timkar

Post Number: 130
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 216.232.207.43

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Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 10:17 pm:   

As Luvrbus says, Aviation permatex
Darrell Black, DVM (Darrelldvm)
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Username: Darrelldvm

Post Number: 50
Registered: 6-2005
Posted From: 209.78.171.84

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Posted on Saturday, September 19, 2009 - 11:38 pm:   

Napa doesnot have Aviation Peratex, where do I get it?
Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
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Username: Luvrbus

Post Number: 774
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 74.33.54.207

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Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 12:03 am:   

Darrell, Napa sells it their item # is 765-1210 $5.45 for a 4 oz bottle.

good luck
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Username: Chessie4905

Post Number: 1639
Registered: 10-2003
Posted From: 71.58.71.157


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Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 9:32 am:   

try to check surfaces of items being sealed for burrs, etc. sometimes sliding the face of a file over the surfaces can reveal these raised defects, which can cause a new gasket to keep seeping after replacing. Detroit 2 cycles, and especially high mileage ones have a great deal of crankcase pressure, causing added effort to keep ahead of leaks. There was an outfit that had a crankcase vapor mechanism that did a good job to alleviate this problem. I think it used to be called the "Walker Air Sep". Was used initially on boat DD engines with great success. Don't know if it is still available. Was around 400 dollars back in the 80's
clint hunter (Truthhunter)
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Username: Truthhunter

Post Number: 494
Registered: 1-2009
Posted From: 24.129.237.52


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Posted on Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 1:42 pm:   

& I would like to add, degrease both surfaces with brake cleaner before you smear "bear shit" (aviation sealer) on, before placing your new gasket. The idea is to remove any film that will allow wicking, fill in scratches that will seep & may lead to a eventual leak while allowing lubrication of the gasket on initial compression (unless the gasket maker say use nothing, like on many composite gaskets sets). Prep & even torq is the key, just as important as the correct gasket material for the application.

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