| Author | Message | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 1 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.192.170 Rating: |
I need illustrated instructions on how to change the oil, oil and air filter on an MCI mc9. Thank you. | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 735 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.53.153.91  Rating: N/A |
Leonard, Welcome aboard to the wonderful world of BUSNUTS. Hope you have many post to share with us. I am assuming you are a newbie to this world? So again welcome. Now to the business at hand; changing oil on a coach is like any other except a lot more of oil is involved. If you have Da Book[manuel] it will have the way to do it,if you don't try to get one and it will save you a lot of time in figuring out stuff. They are available from other BusNuts or the classifieds here on BNO. I only use straight 40 wt oil in the DD's Napa has filters also or some heavy truck parts place. Need any help always feel free to ask on the board. Again welcome aboard. Gomer | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong Post Number: 1664 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 67.182.48.162  Rating: |
Leonard - Ah, even the shop manual is a little sparse when it comes to the illustrations you're asking for! However, changing the oil on an MCI is just like changing the oil on any other vehicle, except it's a lot bigger! And, just like your car, you need to gather everything together first, BEFORE you start: Oil (seven gallons of STRAIGHT 40wt, CF-2, 1% or less sulfated ash content - DO NOT USE MULTI-WEIGHT OIL IN A DETROIT TWO-STROKE), oil filter, air filter cartridge, run-up blocks, wheel chocks, catch pan sufficient to capture seven GALLONS of oil (and a place to dispose of it), oil filter wrench, funnel, rags, kitty litter, and other necessary common hand tools. Before starting, take the coach on a 5 - 10 mile run to thoroughly warm up the oil. Upon your return, run the coach up on the blocks and secure it with the parking brake and wheel chocks. Place the catch pan under the coach, carefully remove the drain plug (highly recommend using either a box-end wrench or a socket, rather than channel-locks or a crescent wrench), and let the flow begin. Opening up the oil filler neck helps, btw. While the oil's draining, remove the old filter, making sure the old gasket comes off, too. Fill the new filter with clean oil, and be sure to put some clean oil on the filter's gasket before reinstalling. Hand tight plus 1/4 turn, IIRC, is the rule of thumb. The air filter cartridge is sort of a bear to remove, mostly because it's awkward. It's accessible thru the street-side door behind the tag axle. Take the cover off the canister, R&R the element, and carefully reinstall the cover. Once the oil stops draining (should take about 30 minutes or so), you can re-install the drain plug. Add the first six gallons of oil, then start the engine and check for leaks - especially around the oil filter. If no leaks, you're good. If leaks, trace them down and correct the problem. After the leak check, pull everything out from under the coach, start it back up, allow the air pressure to build to normal cut-out, and pull the coach down off the run-up blocks (don't forget to remove the wheel chocks!), parking it on a level surface (even if you have to go around the block to do so), and shutting it off again. While the new oil is draining back into the oil pan (about 20 - 30 min), clean up your work area, putting the tools away, disposing of the old oil, using the kitty litter on any spills, etc. Once done, check the oil level in the coach. Note that the proper "full" mark on the dipstick should be 1" below the oil pan / engine block interface - lots of things can happen to dipsticks after the coach leaves the factory, so check yours to make sure it's accurate. This can be done by running the stick alongside the tube and checking it's markings - an extra pair of hands is helpful here, btw. Add whatever is needed (usually about 3/4 gallon), and you are done! Now watch the oil level. Lots of these engines will blow out a certain amount initially after an oil change, then run for miles with the level showing partially low. Your coach may do the same thing, you've just got to monitor the consumption - let it drop till it finds it's "sweet spot", if you will. Sorry for the lack of illustrations and/or photos, but I think you can visualize what to do based on my description. Just don't be afraid of it, have the correct parts on hand before you start, and consider it a learning experience! FWIW & HTH. . .  | ||
| Paul Lawry (Dreamscape)
Registered Member Username: Dreamscape Post Number: 612 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 64.40.209.21  Rating: N/A |
Great description RJ. If you get an oil catch can say from Napa it may not hold the total amount. I think the one I have holds 5 gallons. Be ready to put the plug back in before it gets full or you will have fun pulling it out. Have two empty 5 gallon containers to dump the old oil in. It aint like changing the oil in grandma's car! LOL One more thing like RJ says, lots of rags and kitty litter! Paul | ||
| Dennis WAtson (Trucktramp)
Registered Member Username: Trucktramp Post Number: 3 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 76.235.186.143 Rating: N/A |
If you don't have a catch pan large enough, you can cut the bottom of a 55 gallon drum off at about the bottom rib (8-12 inches from the bottom) and use that. It has worked for me and many others. It is possible that it is big enough to catch all of your coolant if needed too. | ||
| ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)
Registered Member Username: Shadowman Post Number: 212 Registered: 11-2003 Posted From: 70.210.251.91 Rating: N/A |
I agree that that was a great description. If you want to take a few shortcuts you can buy a Fumoto drain valve and use way less rags, no kitty litter, any size drain pan that you want, and no wrench. Makes for a much cleaner oil change,.....unless of course the new oil filter happens to slip out of your hands as you are putting it back on. :>( I also use a large sheet of cardboard to catch spills under the bus, but then i am doing this on gravel instead of concrete. | ||
| Ednj (Ednj)
Registered Member Username: Ednj Post Number: 267 Registered: 3-2003 Posted From: 68.197.93.69  Rating: N/A |
He may have and oil pan on the air filter. Thats about 2 gallons of the same oil ( I used 30 wt there) so its a little heavy. | ||
| Tom Christman (Tchristman)
Registered Member Username: Tchristman Post Number: 160 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 66.218.33.156 Rating: |
Very important point-to fill the big oil filter up with fresh oil before re-installing. It takes too long for the oil to fill with all that time without oil for the engine. Good Luck, TomC | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 2 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.196.131 Rating: N/A |
Thank you all for your assistance. I am new to bus ownership and to this site. I've located an MC-9 Maintenance manual which is very informative. The 6v92 uses 7.5 gallons of oil. The recommended oil is 40W. Who has the best prices for oil? Do you purchase in bulk? I'm using Exxon XD-3 ash rate .80. Thanks. | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 508 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 69.143.41.152  Rating: N/A |
Leonard, the "API rating" on the oil should be "CF-2"; otherwise, your specs look good (I'm not familiar with that oil so I can't comment directly but that's a nice, low ash rate). And, as stated, "straight weight" oil only. What's the API on XD-3 (that sounds like a Canada marketing designaition, is it?) | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 7 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 149.173.6.51 Rating: N/A |
Hi all, How often should the oil be changed on one of these DD two-strokes? Does anyone run Synthetic (Amsoil) in these? If not, why not? Jim | ||
| Dale Waller (Happycampersrus)
Registered Member Username: Happycampersrus Post Number: 354 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 166.235.176.246 Rating: N/A |
http://www.exxon.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLEXExxonXD-3Monogrades.asp Appears to be a great oil for the 2 stroke | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 3 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.197.226 Rating: N/A |
Bruce Check Dale's post. | ||
| David Guglielmetti (Daveg)
Registered Member Username: Daveg Post Number: 129 Registered: 2-2009 Posted From: 71.138.26.128  Rating: |
No one runs synthetic because you can't afford to with all the oil leaks and such. RJ nice detail job. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1761 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.71.103.252  Rating: N/A |
Local DD dealer here sells the Exxon XD-3 for 2 stroke use. Jim, if I recall correctly, any busnut that tried using synthetic didn't continue, as the oil consumption gets quite thirsty, due to it more readily finding ways to escape, versus the straight weight oils. And/or busnuts are cheap, and can't stand the cost of the stuff? One way or another, the use of synthetic oil in a Detroit 2 stroke is unconventional. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1043 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 66.82.9.61  Rating: N/A |
One way or another, the use of synthetic oil in a Detroit 2 stroke is unconventional. NAAHH,, Synthetic is still used by some of the shiftless crowd auto trannys . And a quart or two in a 4 speed stick DOES capture the advantage of synthetic , higher sheer ability. Not that I ever "grind" a shift when rowing the Sportscar thru traffic , but its cheap insurance . Also seems to help the shifting in the cold AM till the tranny warms up a bit. FF | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1762 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 76.68.120.212 Rating: N/A |
Yes, as Fast Fred points out, synthetic in the transmission and differential are quite acceptable choices. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1816 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157  Rating: N/A |
If you are going to keep the coach for a while, might as well go for a drum of oil and be done with it for a while. Remember, you'll need to carry at least two to three gallons with you for top off if needed. Shop around for a drum price. Some bulk distributors will fill your own drum at a savings. | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 4 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.192.100 Rating: |
Gentlemen: Could we please move back to my original post? Thanks. I need illustrated instructions on how to change the oil, oil and air filter on an MCI mc9. Thank you. | ||
| RJ Long (Rjlong)
Registered Member Username: Rjlong Post Number: 1665 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 67.182.48.162 Rating: N/A |
Leonard - May I ask a "dumb" question? Why do you need illustrated instructions? | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 476 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62  Rating: N/A |
I'm going to go out on a limb and say short of someone going out and photographing their next oil change for you illustrated instrucitons don't exist. Maybe you should either take it to a maintenance facility or hire a mechanic to come out for your first change and ask if you can watch. | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 5 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.193.185 Rating: N/A |
Hello RJ It's not a dumb question and thanks again for your assistance. I'm not familiar with the location of parts such as drain plug, air filter etc. The owners manual shows the location of some parts put not others. As a new bus owner, I need a Chliton or Haynes type of illustration. | ||
| Leonard (Tizer4)
Registered Member Username: Tizer4 Post Number: 6 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 4.227.193.185 Rating: N/A |
Thank you, Tim. | ||
| Dale Waller (Happycampersrus)
Registered Member Username: Happycampersrus Post Number: 355 Registered: 7-2005 Posted From: 4.88.12.64 Rating: |
Might I also suggest you get the manuals for your coach and engine. They contain so much info on these buses and are illustrated pretty well. Here is a good sorce for what you will need. http://www.coachinfo.com/Manuals/Coach/MCI/MCI9.html | ||
| ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)
Registered Member Username: Shadowman Post Number: 215 Registered: 11-2003 Posted From: 70.212.254.174 Rating: N/A |
Might see if you can find another busnut in your area willing to come over and walk you through the procedure. Hands on, or ojt, as some refer to it, is the fastest/best way to learn. :>) | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 91 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.209.194.44 Rating: N/A |
The oil filter is on the left(drivers side) of the engine, hanging straight down. You have the same filter on the auto trans, straight forward about 3 to 4ft. When you get your oil filter, best to get the metal band wrench that you uses a 1/2in ratchet or bar. As for the air filter, do you have a small round clear/black plastic drvice on the intake tube to the turbo, it monitors the vaccum the air filter, as it gets dirty(clogs). Oh I carry spare oil an fuel filters. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 813 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.95.26 Rating: |
guys, I can see where he needs help on 6v92 with the oil coolers for the Allison and engine most of the filters are not mounted on the engine but in a remote location. good luck |
