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John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 353
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 24.183.21.246


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Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 9:10 pm:   

Just got back from our first long distance run with the 4107. Wisconsin to Florida and back. A few minor problems, but nothing we couldn't handle. The only thing is when we got to Florida, the trans (spicer 4 speed) was close to the low mark on the dipstick. I added a half gallon of straight 30 W and drove it home. The last few miles (the only shifting I did for several hours) it seemed stiff and hard to shift. The oil is again at the low mark. I can't see it leaking out anywhere (although there is a lot of leaking going on in the engine compartment and it is after all a detroit). The hard shifting at the end may have been me as I drove the 1500 miles pretty much straight thru and it was snowing and below freezing when we got home. So I am going to bring it up to level and we have to take it with the band for a gig near Minnesota this Friday. Just wondered if anyone had any idea about the oil loss. Thanks for any input. I plan to put a blog of the trip on BNO Facebook along with a couple pictures when I get a chance.

John
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1100
Registered: 11-2005
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Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 9:49 pm:   

John

The 4104 Spicer calls for 50W oil and I presume the 4107 is about the same trans.

Mine leaks quite a bit too and one day I will replace the seals.
larry currier (Larryc)
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Username: Larryc

Post Number: 311
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Posted From: 64.40.62.26

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Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 10:45 pm:   

Just an after thought... Most spicer units will pressurize and throw oil if the vent on the top of the tranny plugs.

90W gear is frequently used in old Spicers, try not to mix...

Some years ago mineral oil was also used. Mix mineral with motor or gear oil and it turns into sludge.
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 354
Registered: 9-2007
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Posted on Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:49 pm:   

I will have to do a little experimenting. The P/O said it was easier to shift with lighter oil, so I know he changed it to 10 weight. The book just calls for the same oil that is in the engine, either 30 or 40 depending on operationg tempeture. Mineral oil may be another though Larry, I may research that some more. Since I am adding 30 or 40 as I need, it should help ameliorate the effects of the 10 wght he had in there?
Thanks John
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1095
Registered: 10-2006
Posted From: 66.82.9.14


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Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 6:20 am:   

The book just calls for the same oil that is in the engine, either 30 or 40.

I use a quart or two of synthetic,and 30 wt, it is better at sheer strength and 10% or so doesn't seen to cause weeping.

Still shifts stiffer with very low decay time when AM cold and normal when warm.

FF
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1104
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Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 5:42 pm:   

Mineral oil means oil with no additives so be sure you understand that. Otherwise, it is just like any other oil.

It is commonly used as a break in oil for aircraft engines.
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 355
Registered: 9-2007
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Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2010 - 9:42 pm:   

Thanks Gus, I didn't know about that. Doesn't sound like it would hurt anything although I am not sure what the advantage would be.
John

ps It was about +9 F today when I added a half gallon of 30W. The stuff poured like molasses and took forever to get through the funnel.

(Message edited by bigrigger on February 24, 2010)
Luke Bonagura (Lukeatuscoach)
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Username: Lukeatuscoach

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Posted From: 72.82.211.237

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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 10:27 am:   

Hi John & Folks:

If your coach is still equipped, as built by GM, then you have a "Wet Clutch" set up. The lubrication and cooling of the 3 "thin" clutch discs & plate is dependent upon the oil you use in the transmission. I would therefore suggest that you stick with 30w oil during your cold winter weather. You can use 40w during the hot summer weather.

When you have time you might want to pressure wash your engine compatment, then take the coach for a short ride and check to see if you can see any external transmission leaks. If you do not see any external leaks, it is possible that your double-lipped rear main seal may be leaking the transmission oil back into the engine. If this is ocurring, you will be either not using much engine oil, or the engine oil level could grow to over the full mark.

I hope this HELPS!!!

Happy & SAFE!!! Bussin' to All.

LUKE at US COACH
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 356
Registered: 9-2007
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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 3:45 pm:   

Thanks for the good info Luke. You are always so helpful when it comes to this stuff. I have no way of knowing whether the engine oil use is less than it would be otherwise, but I guess as long as I keep them both topped off at least nothing will suffer from lack of lubrication.

John
Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
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Username: Zubzub

Post Number: 158
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 70.51.31.70


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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 4:06 pm:   

I have been told to let the tranny find it's mark, if the oil level stays the same at near the low level, maybe let it sit there, run the bus a few hundred miles and see if it's in the same spot, if so it may just be throwing off excess oil.
Jack Tucci (Tuccitown)
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Username: Tuccitown

Post Number: 28
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 70.90.177.26

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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 5:51 pm:   

Mine leaked from the starter gasket, being a wet clutch this need to be sealed. Had the starter rebuilt and replaced the gasket and and transmission stopped losing oil.

Might be worth checking as the oil appeared to be coming from the engine.

Jack
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1107
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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 6:14 pm:   

John,

I think the reason for mineral oil was that back in the early '50s when my bus was built the oils didn't have many additives and mineral oils were common. I don't think detergent motor oil even existed then.

I have a few GMC antique big trucks and they call for the same mineral oil in the trans.

I'm using a bunch of aircraft break-in oil I bought by mistake, when that is gone I plan to use engine oil because the price for aircraft oil is even more outrageous than CF-2.

I don't think it really matters except that some newer additives may somehow affect alloy bushings/bearings. I'm sure Luke will know about this.

This same discussion recently came up concerning the use of extreme pressure (GL5) vs non XP (GL4) differential oil.
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 357
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 24.183.21.246


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Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 6:38 pm:   

Thanks Pat, Jack and Gus. All good info that I didn't know. The only experience I had with a detroit was in a GMC I bought new and got rid of before it really developed serious problems (the second time). I have never had any experience with these V-drives and wet clutch system, so it's all a learning curve. Appreciate everyone's input.

John

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