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Peter River (Whitebus)
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Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 223
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 216.241.55.204


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 1:12 pm:   

I don't think my bus is as heavy as some here.

mine is not a unibody which some here appears to have, it has a frame.

I crawled under it yesterday, and took some photos.

http://brightstoneriver.com/bus/frontframe.jpg

I circled the two square open ended beams pointing down. those look like an ideal place to install a leveling jack.

I am looking for any recommendation on which to get, air/pneumatic, or even a manual one.
Peter River (Whitebus)
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Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 224
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 216.241.55.204


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 1:14 pm:   

you can also see the poor jacking I did with couple of wood pieces, which resulted in my door not opening.
Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
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Username: Zubzub

Post Number: 170
Registered: 5-2007
Posted From: 70.51.31.70


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 1:30 pm:   

I like air over draulaulic, not much more than the hydraulic and much nicer to work with. Got mine at HF has worked hard for me. Hard to tell for sure but hat looks like a good spot to jack but it is low, you will have to dig a hole for the bottle jack. Never get under a bus supported by bottle jack, they will fall off the jack whenever they feel like it and it is terrifying.
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 367
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 24.183.21.246


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 3:16 pm:   

Peter, are you talking about mounting hydraulic cylinders to the sides of the mounts you have circled? Anything you put on the bottom of those would be too low and would hit everything. You would need to be sure it was mounted at least as high as the existing frame pieces. I don't know how much you want to spend, but the medical bus I drove had a "bigfoot" electic over hydraulic leveling system. It worked well, but they are pricey. http://www.bigfootleveler.com/ Good luck to you.

John
Peter River (Whitebus)
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Username: Whitebus

Post Number: 225
Registered: 4-2009
Posted From: 216.241.55.204


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 4:55 pm:   

the bus is fully down, as you see.
when it's properly aired up, it's at least 6" higher.

I was thinking in terms of two bottle jacks inserted into the square beams pointing down, and secured either by welding or screws.

and can be deployed when it's parked.
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 1086
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 74.162.73.36


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 6:07 pm:   

Pete,

You're knocking yourself out trying to fix what ain't broke.

Re:
"you can also see the poor jacking I did with couple of wood pieces,
which resulted in my door not opening."


When I told you about my former bus getting it's door jammed after
I stripped the seats, etc and the air was out.... only happened on
uneven ground. And I could always open it with some careful prying.

Buses are parked for long periods and they loose air over time,
but don't end up with their doors so jammed that the bus needs
redesigning to fix the problem. In your case, using those blocks
may be the only problem with your bus door....

Just spend a few bux and hire a wrecker service that does
heavy equipment, let them jack or lift it for you. Get the
door open, get those blocks the hell out, and have a cold beer.

Tampering with, or modifying the frame on a 9 ton vehicle isn't in
your best interests.
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1121
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 173.202.6.139


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Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 7:39 pm:   

Look in the bus manual and it will tell you the proper jacking points.

Those long frames are easy to twist with jacks.

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