| Author | Message | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 179 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
any ideas on why i have no 12v in my coach? no inside lights or pumps no tv no nothing... all wires are connected and working all connections clean.all fuses inside the coach are good. | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 1098 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.78.96  Rating: N/A |
Lil' vague... What still has 12vdc power? What still works? | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 180 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
nothing........ well the lift works but only from the inside not from the outside switches. | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 958 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.39.13.50 Rating: N/A |
Actually Tom, your first statement is not correct! If all the wires and fuses were good, you would have power..........! Didn't you post a week or so ago that you changed out Trojans to different batteries? We are to assume that the Trojans were 6 Volt, and the new batts are 12 Volt? So, the Trojans were wired with one Pos to the coach hot, and the Neg to the next batt's Pos, with that Neg to the coach ground? Now you are "side by side" (parallel) with both Pos terms connected to the hot, and both Negs grounded? We all know John is vague, but you need to tell us if the chassis electrical works or not, and how you "know" all of your house wiring IS working. The we need to know if you have a voltmeter, and how to use it, and we'll tell you where to put the probes to find the problem. We'll also need to know how/if the coach charges the house batteries from the engine alternator. G | ||
| marvin pack (Gomer)
Registered Member Username: Gomer Post Number: 845 Registered: 3-2007 Posted From: 71.53.153.91  Rating: N/A |
Just wondering if the coach has had a master disconnect switch installed in it and maybe it was turned off?? Just a thought!! The batteries should be wired in series as George stated and you get 12 volts to the chassis,since you have 6 volt batteries. Check er out. Gomer | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 961 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.39.13.50 Rating: N/A |
? | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 1099 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.78.96 Rating: N/A |
Tom - Lemme try this again... It's a 12vdc coach. You said nothing works on 12vdc right now inside the coach. Does the coach start and run? Do the headlights work? Is it only the interior 12vdc that's out, or is the entire bus DOA? It's difficult for anyone here (even the Mensa crew) to offer assistance when we don't know the exact symptoms! (or as I said: "lil' vague") | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 181 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
i have a volt meter and i know how to use it all outside lights run fine inverter is a hart 1800 watt no disconnect switch all fuses fine all batts ++++ ---- all wires off batt's are juiced up. off the shure power isolator i get on one post 12.5v and the other which goes back to the engine i get 10.8 volts.... starts and runs fine. geni will run for a few seconds and then quit. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1025 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.40  Rating: N/A |
OK, so if I follow you last post, your chassis electrical system (starter, instruments, exterior lights, etc.) is working fine, but your house electrical system is not. So the logical questions are: 1. How, if at all, are the two systems connected. You mentioned an isolator, which would have at least three connections, but you only told us about two. 2. What method is used to charge the house batteries? Inverter? Converter? Battery charger? 3. What connects the house loads to the house batteries? Fuse panel? Circuit breakers? 4. Was there a time when everything worked, and, if so, what changes have been made since then? 5. Do you have even a rough diagram of how it's all hooked up? Anything would help, at this point. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 1100 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.78.89 Rating: N/A |
Hi Tom... Re: "off the shure power isolator i get on one post 12.5v and the other which goes back to the engine i get 10.8 volts.... " That device that gives you 12vdc when connected to shore power is called a converter, not an isolator. It converts 120vac to 12vdc. I guess the big question is... is there 12vdc into the coach without being connected to shore power, and you're just losing 12vdc when you are connected to shore power? Or is there no 12vdc to run anything in the coach, regardless of a shore power connection or not? Since the bus starts and runs, it almost seems like the problem is confined to whatever is being used to feed 12vdc for the coach equipment. That converter might be at fault, since there's a relay inside it that can hang up, and cause a loss of 12vdc when connected to 120vac shoreline.... and continue to stay hung up, losing 12vdc from any other source. You did say that you see 12vdc on one post? You can try testing for 12vdc to ground at different spots inside the coach, with the idea that perhaps you've just lost a ground from the converter, or from the main 12vdc supply, to the distribution panel. If that converter is an RV type, I would check the relay first, since they are the most frequent failures. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 183 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
OK my last post was in the middle of the night sorry.even on shore power no power[12v] in coach. isolator has 3 post's 10.8 v on one 12.5 on the others batts are charged by inverter and solar the inverter seems to be doing it's job but i am thinking the 12v should not have anything to do with the inverter?? the house load has a 120/12v panel under the stove that may be suspect.i have to figure how to get it out to check it without removing the stove. and yes it worked in November/December but was intermittent,i thought it was from the bad batts but i guess not. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 184 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
OK, fixed..... i was looking for a larger wire,maybe a 3-4 or 5 but the wire is a 14 maybe a 12 stranded. on the box it was corroded. but that is not where the problem lay.when i changed out the house batteries i checked all of the wires continuity the red house wire which looks way too small checked out to a ground wire, so i hooked it to ground instead of hot...... no power.... it also was loose on what i thought to be the ground block.my next question is how can such a small wire run everything in the coach? | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 1101 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.78.89 Rating: N/A |
Tom - I'm still assuming that the device "under the stove" is a standard RV power converter/inverter/distribution device. Both 120vac and 12vdc are run into these things, making switching from one source of power to another fairly automatic. I really hate assume that, but the way you're describing things, it sure seems like it....? If so.... Often the ground lead to the converter goes to a relay that actually does the switching of the higher current. By using a relay (or solenoid), the carrying capacity of the wire and remote switches involved can be lighter gauge; the relay is where the higher current will be transferred. It's like the starter on your car... The key switch is light duty, when contacts are made, it completes the ground circuit to the solenoid, which in turn completes the higher current draw of the "real circuit" to the starter. If you had to run the massive current draw through that ignition switch, it'd melt.... (all that's over-simplified due to my limited mental capacity to explain this stuff, but you get the idea, right?) Anyway.... If my assumption is right, problems are always likely in that control box, and usually with a sticky relay that handles the swap between 120vac and the 12vdc input. It's a common problem with the RV type control boxes, usually due to the poor placement of the devices. They stuff 'em under refrigerators and stoves where they can't be cleaned of dust, etc. Of course if my assumption was wrong....? Then I have just made a semi-perfect ass of myself. What the hell.... Maybe it'll help anyway... Good luck. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 185 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
i do it all the time. all it is is a breaker box on one side and a 30 amp fuse panel [12v] on the other side. the 30 amp is being fed wit the same size wire you'd find in an Orange extension cord. my only problem was the wire was connected to the wrong pole and a little corrosion, now to figure out my problems with the geneator cutting off after 10 seconds. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 187 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
also i solved the problem of where my regulator is....i could kill the dumba** that put it above the clear water tank 3 feet in and 3 feet over. no way to get to it as the tanks are less than a foot from the celing of the bay | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 103 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.243.43.79 Rating: N/A |
My 1978, 5kw, Onnnooonnn did the same thing then would not start. First new points an condensor(very over priced), next N still must use choke manually to keep it running, carb needs a good cleaning, ran it on straight Sea Foam and let it set several days but it still needs choke to run. Next will be remove carb and clean, how many $$$$$$$ for gasket kit???? May best buy a small Yammy or Honda, easyer on nervs. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 188 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
this is a propane honda 6000 fresh oil change and less than 100 hours on her.may be a wire prob as i extended the remote start and had to add a few feet of wire. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 189 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
went to the home depot to ge wire for the house lights and refridge and everything else. crooks wanted 72 cents a foot for red #6. well my sharp eye saw 17 feet of green on the wall that had been cut off the spool,i called the manager over and got them down to 32 cents a foot!! brand new hefty wire has been installed and all works great..thanks everyone for your help!!! | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 458 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.5.73 Rating: |
You know, Thomas, it matters what color the wires are. The next guy (or you in 2 years) is going to assume that is a bond wire. You could at least wrap 6" at each end with the correct color tape. | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 190 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
i will i have already marked the ends and marked on the wall green wire is really red for house use. i am real broke lately and we are facing $18,000 in hospital bills for my childs operation he had 3 weeks ago. so i had to skimp on wire. |
