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John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 380
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 7:20 pm:   

I had my black water valve sieze up over winter causing me a mess when I went to dump it last month in Florida. I have since replaced it, but the gray water is hard to move. What should I use to lubricate these valves as i think petroleum based grease would be harmful to the rubber seals?
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1136
Registered: 11-2005
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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 8:31 pm:   

John,

Try loosening very slightly each of the four screws that hold the valve together.

This has a direct effect on the effort required to move it. If you loosen too much it might leak but you should be able to loosen them enough to allow easy operation of the valve without leaks.

Works for me.
doug yes (Dougg)
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Post Number: 124
Registered: 1-2007
Posted From: 174.131.66.128

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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 8:52 pm:   

Petrolium Jelly
ned sanders (Uncle_ned)
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Username: Uncle_ned

Post Number: 79
Registered: 5-2005
Posted From: 74.162.24.220

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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 8:57 pm:   

come on guys use the good stuff KY Jelly Don't have much use for it any more.

uncle ned
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Username: John_mc9

Post Number: 1106
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 74.162.78.89


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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 9:41 pm:   

Hey Ned..

My neighbor says that after 7 kids, he and the half still go
through a tube a week, only now he puts it on the bedroom
doorknob to keep the kids out.
thomas flocks (Taflocks)
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Username: Taflocks

Post Number: 207
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Posted From: 74.76.246.165

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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 9:45 pm:   

my poop shute valve seems not to go down all the way,any ideas on what my problem might be?
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 1190
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 75.244.132.62

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Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 10:57 pm:   

And a DuPree Valve???? Where are you FF? :-)

RCB
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Username: Fast_fred

Post Number: 1126
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Posted From: 66.82.162.12


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 6:42 am:   

DuPree Valve???? Where are you FF?


Even the good stuff will sometimes get hard to operate.

When this happens on ours (lack of use) we dump with the coach at an angle to the dump station.

Later on flat ground 2 screws easily remove the entire valve & core .

UGH simple cleaning usually does the job (scotch brite pad ), but to extend the service life of the clean surfaces we shmeer water proof lube as used in marine toilets in the surfaces that mate.

Loads of fun every 5 years or so.

A spair could instantly be installed , saving the delight till "Later".

Just like the valve in the base of the toilet , never close the valve on paper!

FF
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 381
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 8:20 am:   

Gus, thanks for the thought about loosening the screws however that won't work for me. It's a steel tank and the PO bolted the valves directly through the tank wall. They will not move. I broke the other four off the black water side and drilled and put in stainless bolts and nuts with nylock inserts hopeing that if I ever need to I can remove them again. I am planning on getting rid of the whole system soon as this dumps out the right side of the bus (I can't tell you how much fun THAT is in a crowded dump situation). Anyway, thanks all, I will try some KY and see if that doesn't help.

John
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 1191
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 75.245.85.74

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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:34 am:   

Guess I'd better take another look at the Dupree...I cleaned mine this past fall...completely dismantled (from the tank). I thought at the time there must be a better way.

And you are right...lack of use and it's been about 5 years.....maybe 6. :-)

Thanx.
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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Username: Kyle4501

Post Number: 546
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Posted From: 65.23.106.193


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 10:41 am:   

KY is water soluable - so it will quickly wash off. A water resistant grease would be a better choice if lube is needed.

Keeping paper out of it will help prolong the usefull interval between cleanings.
Edward J. Sommers (Sommersed)
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Username: Sommersed

Post Number: 53
Registered: 10-2004
Posted From: 148.63.161.138

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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 11:01 am:   

Drill a small hole up high (near the top edge) on the flat face large enuf to squirt a little oil in then work the valve some. Then either seal the hole with goop or screw in a fine thread screw. Sealing ensures that liquids cannot escape as it CAN find its way up there.

Ed
Dallas Farnworth (Dallas)
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Post Number: 35
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Posted From: 72.172.43.196

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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 4:52 pm:   

I kind of went a different route.
Before the slide valves, which are cheap and problem prone at best, and the tank itself, which in my case is a 100 gallon step tank from a Ford LN8000, I installed a 3" PVC ball valve. This way I have the ability to turn off the flow no matter what happens to the trout floating downstream ;)
About once a month I cycle the ball valve through a hole in the floor of the thunder room, and in 6 years of full timing, I haven't had a problem.
My first choice would be a brass or stainless ball valve, but the difference in price made my decision for me!
les marston (Les_marston)
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Username: Les_marston

Post Number: 33
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Posted From: 68.151.248.141

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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 7:32 pm:   

I have had the same waste valve on our coach since 1992. I lubricated it with a silicone based lubricant made by dow called 111. It still has lube on it and has never been a problem. I am sure that any silicone based lubricant will do as well
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 1192
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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 9:02 pm:   

Dallas...I understand the English....not sure I understand Xactly what you did... Was this "just prior" to the slide? Can't seem to grasp what that would accomplish, other than to make the maintenance of the slide a bit "cleaner", perhaps....

Pictures???

Thanx,
RCB
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Username: Gusc

Post Number: 1138
Registered: 11-2005
Posted From: 173.202.9.56


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 9:05 pm:   

Thomas,

Probably a small piece of paper stuck in the bottom part of the slide groove.

I have never had to use a lubricant, just adjusted the screws.

John, you, indeed, have a different setup. Makes changing valves a real chore instead of a simple process.

One tip, use plenty of rubber connectors between the pipes when you change your system. They absorb vibration and save cracking pipes. I, too, had a right side dump when I got bought my bus and it was a real pain. I added one to the left side and kept the right side. Very nice being able to use either side.

I like the ball valve idea, didn't know they were made that big. I'm a big fan of SS ball valves. That 3" one must cost a fortune though.

(Message edited by gusc on March 30, 2010)
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 382
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 9:44 pm:   

Thanks Les, that's what I figured would be better than petroleum base.

Gus, that's a great idea. I had already figured on using rubber fittings to connect everything, but hadn't thought about leaving a dump on either side. As long as I am going to be welding up my own tanks, i can make 'em any way i want them.

Dallas, I like that idea of the ball valve too. Maybe by the time I get this thing built it will be worth putting in!

Thanks everyone for the input. I can always count on this group.

John
marvin pack (Gomer)
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Username: Gomer

Post Number: 854
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 71.53.153.91


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Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 9:56 pm:   

just for thought, they make those PVC valves with compression fittings so installation is simple and easy. Go with PVC not only for cost but durable.


Gomer
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 383
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 9:48 am:   

I probably will Gomer. I can make the outlet steel 3 inch and then go with rubber connections and change over to PVC from there on out. Whatever I do it will be so i never have to open one of those *^&^%*& valves with a screwdriver and be up to my elbows in... well you get the idea.

John
Dallas Farnworth (Dallas)
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Post Number: 36
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 10:00 am:   

Chuck,
I put the valve about 3" from where the waste pipe leaves the tank. This allows me to shut the whole system down and replace any parts that may at some point become damaged or non functional.
The on-off knob is set upright and I have a T-handle that I made with a U shaped piece of steel welded on the end that engages the on-off knob through a hole in the floor of the bathroom
The other reason for using a ball valve is that it's pretty much self cleaning, if it ever gets crudded up, just turn the valve and it wipes itself off. There is very little way that it can be damaged or become non functional through lack of use.
The valve I used was made by Nibco and cost me about $50 on eBay, but I have seen them for as much as $160 for different models in plumbing stores. I attached it with a fernco rubber and two stainless constant torque clamps on each end.
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Username: Chuckllb

Post Number: 1193
Registered: 7-2006
Posted From: 75.242.160.9

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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 10:55 am:   

Dallas...great idea!. I abhor the slide valve I have just after the tank opening....and it is not a cheap one. It hangs up, often must be opened with a large screw driver, sometimes wont close completely.... and is a general pain.

I have ball valves around it for venting, overflow and even primary dump in a grey water tank; use them also in controlling flow in our swimming pool inlets and outlets....

Just never have considered one for the "dirty duty"; but I can assure you I am going to re-think the black tank thing. Many thanx for the "heads-up"! :-)

And thanx, Ian...for this great board!!! What a resource...and it's FREE! :-) :-)
RCB
Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 11:52 am:   

Who in their right mind would put the dumper on the wrong side?
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 12:39 pm:   

He didn't put it on the wrong side, he put it on the right side.
marvin pack (Gomer)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 1:09 pm:   

John!!! Hello!!

Gomer
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 7:56 pm:   

Gomer...


<----left

Which one is right?

(the answer is below)

areoue






(Message edited by john_mc9 on March 31, 2010)
R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 10:38 pm:   

:-)....still Prayin" for ya JTNG!!

Love it!!!!!...and you!!

RCB
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Post Number: 1142
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 10:44 pm:   

RC,

I used to have those sticking slide valve problems too before I discovered how easy it is to loosen the slide up with the four screws.

Bill,

My guess is that dump stations were not standard on the left a few years back because I've seen a bunch of them on older rigs.

I've also seen a number of dump stations in RV parks and state rest stops on the right side.(I assume everyone has R/L sides figured out by now! Amazing how many people don't know this?)

I seriously doubt that anyone would install one on the opposite side just to make things more difficult!!

(Message edited by gusc on March 31, 2010)
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2010 - 11:07 pm:   

There was a story, way back when.... that said that they didn't
want the waste outlet on the right side, because they didn't want
to encourage rvers to dump into storm drains.

I dunno... I always managed to find a storm drain on a one-way
street handy for the left side...

Having one on each side is the real bananas.

And of course, a good macerator pump and a soaker hose
can work wonders for the neighbor's garden!

We do what we do, our way.
David Evans (Dmd)
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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 12:21 am:   

Yep back in the day lots were on the curb side, mine is/was. Funny stuff John! My only thought on the pvc valve is you MUST turn it occasionaly or it can freeze up enough so the handle or stem will break. the old you dont use it you lose it syndrome. I remember when the honey wagons use to drive out in the fields and drop/spray the "load"
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 6:50 am:   

Most commercial coaches dump on the PAX side ,

most Bus Campers dump on the left as that is where most RV sires (by code) have the hookups.

FF
John MC9 (John_mc9)
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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 9:24 am:   

Don -

Re:
"I remember when the honey wagons use to drive out in the
fields and drop/spray the "load""


They dumped the sewage trucks in an open fields in New Hampshire
for years (still do, actually). It's the safest way to get rid of the bacteria.
The sunlight kills the bacteria damned quick, and the balance is safe.
Well, it might taste lousy, but it's said to be safe.

I can remember the smell of rotting garbage at the dumps. Now they
insist it has to be layered between heavy plastic so it doesn't leach
into the water supplies. The toxic garbage will now remain encapsulated
fresh and wonderful until something disrupts it..

On the Erving/Leverett line in Mass, there's a mountain of garbage,
all nicely layered on the side of a mountain. It has been slowly sliding
downhill. There's a railroad and a river below it, and the last I heard,
they were still trying to figure out how to deal with it.

It's called "Progress".
Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
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Username: Kyle4501

Post Number: 548
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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 9:57 am:   

I thought it was called "putting it off until someone else has to deal with it -OR- pay for it"
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Post Number: 386
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Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 10:26 am:   

The sewage pumper trucks still dump on open fields here. They are required to add some lime to bring the PH to a proper level, but then they can just spread it wherever it's not close to a habitat.

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