| Author | Message | ||
| Esther (63.191.1.97)
Rating: N/A |
Hi, This is part two of the Question I asked "Headliners-How Do I Make Them Stick, and Stay Up. " I posted this at the bottom, but just in case any of the people that answered me, are not following up on it. I am posting this new one. Here it goes! I just want to thank all of you for taking the time to answer. They were all very good ideas. It gives us somethings to check into. The idea that Ace and Slo did with the F.R.P. panels really caught my eye. I do have a few questions. First, with the F.R.P. panels, do you have any trouble with moisture/condensation? 2. Would there be any advantage to taking the marlite panels down, putting plywood up, and then the FRP panels? 3. What about the wires I need to run to the roof A/Cs, whats the best way to handle that? I was thinking of running some conduit in the roof, in case I need access to the wires in the future. Sound like a good idea? 4. What do I need to build to support the panels while they dry, and how long do they need to be supported? The weather will be approx. 60 degrees, and the bus will be outdoors. And living on the beautiful Oregon coast, good chance of rain. 5. How long does it take for the fumes to "run their coarse? We do have some pretty bad allergies to glues. The man at Home Depot said the Liquid Nails wasn't too bad, but I don't know. 6. Now, if I decide to put plywood up first, this Flexible Plywood is new to me, I have never heard of it before, or seen it. Where does one find it, and about how much does it cost? Is it as sturdy as normal plywood? What makes it flexible? Does it insulate as well as normal plywood? And does it SMELL different? I really appreciate all the help I am getting from all of you. Thanks. | ||
| SLO (24.205.227.122)
Rating: N/A |
1. No problem with condensation. 2. & 3. The main advantage of taking down the original marlite is the ability to run conduits in the roof for future needs. I did this using a unibit to enlarge and or drill holes for the conduit. 4. I used a 2x4 with 2 legs to the floor, but I screwed my panels up, and you'd need more if you glued them up. On bare plywood, the glue would set faster than on a finished surface, but set time I would guess is at least 12 hours...... 5. The F.R.P. glue doesn't seem very offensive to me, but then I have very few brain cells left to offend...... 6. I used flexible plywood one time and it seems that it was made with a finer grained wood than standard plywood. It flexes because it has a cut about every 1/2 inch x 1/4 inch deep. If you have a table saw, you can make your own. Two side notes....I saw a photo of a rig that had a ceiling installed, and they had used 2x2's as supports. They went from straight up and down to diagonally from floor to ceiling. There were so many, a stickman couldn't have moved 6 inches in there. Seemed like an overkill. I'd use some plywood "pads", and less supports. Remember, MCI floors slope 3 1/2 inches to the front, so have some blocks ready for the front section if you plan on using the same supports for each panel, or your supports will be too short. There is a nifty little screw with a flat head, phillips type, that looks like a drill bit on the point. They work well on frames and are flat enough to install panel over without them showing. SLO | ||
| DaveD (216.18.113.69)
Rating: N/A |
I think Home Depot sells flexible plywood. It should be in the section where other thin plywoods are displayed. | ||
| Esther (64.154.136.222)
Rating: N/A |
SLO, Where do you get those nifty little screws that look like they have a drill bit on the point, and are flathead Phillips type? Is that what you used to screw the plywood panels into the frame with? Did you have to predrill a pilot hole into the stud? What did you use to screw the FRP panels up with? Did you use glue also? | ||
| SLO (Slo) (24.205.227.122)
Rating: N/A |
Home Depot has those screws, and yes I used them to screw the FRP directly to the roof frame, no glue, no pre-drilling. They are kinda expensive at Home Depot, you might look around for a cheaper source, but you really only need a few hundred. I'll email you some photos. SLO | ||
| Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.90)
Rating: N/A |
Home Depot sells the screws you want, you'll have to pre-drill the holes if you are going into the frame. Also, I wouldn't use any glue-- what happens if you need to take the panel back off in the future? Everything in my bus is designed to be able to be taken apart, including the headliner panels (1/4" plywood covered with Ozite). --Geoff '82 RTS CA | ||
| bruceknee (12.94.184.138) Rating: N/A |
you can get self drilling screws at any drywall supply house probably for alot less than at h.d. they won't drill into much more than 1/8" metal without starting to snap off... when they d, back them out with small vise grips. bruce | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.197)
Rating: N/A |
Try Fastenal...they also have pretty good pricing on Stainless Screws, but they are 302's and soft. I predrill. Less time. Fewer messed up screws. Uh OOOO,,,Ian may move all this to WBNO.  RCB | ||
| SLO (Slo) (24.205.227.122)
Rating: N/A |
Self Drillers......No problem going into frame without predrilling. I used 1" lengths... SLO | ||
| Ace (24.28.44.126) Rating: N/A |
Same for me! They work well without any pre-drilling of the holes. Only thing is make sure you get the first one in, because if it doesn't start, dis-card it and get a new one! Once it's dull, it will never start! Ace | ||
| Dale Fleener (66.52.64.200)
Rating: N/A |
If you're cheap like me, you can pull out the second one and put the dull one in its hole and then use the one you pulled out in the next position. lol Dale MC8 |