| Author |
Message |
OAE Palmer (216.39.187.248)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 3:19 am: | |
It is nearing the top of my "To DO" list on my 4106....
looks to me like they are spot welded to the frame and will twist out with a pipe wrench.
Guidence from those experienced please? |
RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.74.29)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 4:14 am: | |
Been thinking the same thing. . .
But have also thought they'd make a good place to attach cabinets to, or secure a wall, sling a hammock, etc.
RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA |
Pete (64.12.96.235)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 5:36 am: | |
I removed a bulkhead wall to make more space..it took a disc grinder and 4 wheels but i got it done.I 3 1/2 inch grinder should do. One thing you doing want to do is torch them off..not only will it be a real pain in the ass but with the insulation, debris and odd material depending what the enclosed it with you risk..I'd go with the disc grinder
Pete |
Frank Allen (205.188.209.11)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 9:34 am: | |
put a 16 inch pipe wrench on mine with no results, when you get em out let us know how
Frank Allen
4106 |
chollifield (67.30.198.229)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2003 - 5:12 pm: | |
Sawzall with a metal cutting blade took mine off even with the ceiling panel. That way it does'nt leave a 1" hole.
Curt
PD4106-045 |
OAE Palmer (216.39.186.228)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 28, 2003 - 1:55 pm: | |
Well the pipe wrench looks the best to me , especially witha cheaterbar about 3ft. long......but I do NOT want to twist the rib into some new and weaker shape.
Being naturaly "grinder inclined" that was my knee-jerk idea....but the mess is aviodable I hope.
Sawsall would be working already IF I owned one, this tool has always escaped the list of NEEDED tools in my various boxes....and I always kick myself when the time comes to use one...about twice a year.
I'll be attempting to bust a knuckle and bleed over it this w/e.....more when the healing starts. |
jmaxwell (66.42.92.20)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 28, 2003 - 2:22 pm: | |
IMHO there are two indispensable tools when doing the dis-assembly stage of conversion: Rotary metal grinders and cutters with a wide assortment of grinding wheels and cutting disc (I use an 8" Milwaukee for the bulk stuff, 4 1/2" Harbor Freight for smaller things and most cutting, and air die grinder for the in tight and small stuff). The second item is a variety of air chissels. I just could not estimate how much time and swearing these tools have saved me. A Sawzall is nice to have when u need it, but they just are not that often needed and often beat the hell out of u when using them. U just can never have enough power and air tools. Like cordless drills; 1 is good, several is better yet. |
OAE Palmer (216.39.187.32)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2003 - 4:45 am: | |
J-Max...we thinks the same on this one.
My specific problem is that some thing have come to be stored inside the bus that I would rather not have to protect from grinding slag.
Today I was feeling a little frisky about sundown and took a feel with the pipe wrench on a sput that was located in a 2-1/2 mainframe member
( figgerin that one would be least likely to deform on me)
after I locked on with a solid bite I gave it a yank and got some rotation on it so I went for another one.....& twisted that bugger out clean and flush, just like downtown!
Then I goes for #2....same deal..twist twice and POP its on the floor!
#3 was the one that made me drunk with confidence..now I am a pro!
(if you haven't seen the headlights of the approachin Bus, I would suggest you get out of the street at this point)
IF you don't pull EXACTLY parallel with bottom surface of the spud, you will deform the frame member especially the lighter weight Z or C shaped frames.
I saw it start to deform before any real movement had taken place so no damage was done, but only because I kept a close eye on it.
I dint have to use a cheaterbar on the 14inch wrench...just a couple of hard smooth pulls about 1/4 turn in both directions before they broke off flush and smooth.
The remainder of the spud indicates a 3/8ths inch hole was drilled for the shaft, which is 1/2 the size of the spud itself......tomorrow its time to twist again! |