| Author | Message | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 26 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.9.162  Rating: |
We have a misting cooler on our main engine rad. The cooling effect is dramatic and cools 10-15 deg. on those steep hills.the problem is they clog up. has anyone come up with a solution to soak them clean? | ||
| thomas flocks (Taflocks)
Registered Member Username: Taflocks Post Number: 288 Registered: 9-2009 Posted From: 74.76.246.165 Rating: N/A |
clr shower cleaner just dip them in the stuff | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 74 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
try a mild solution of citric acid. might be better to find out what is clogging them and deal with that problem instead of the symptom. i.e. what is in the water to clog them? After 25 years in water treatment I have found it is often better to deal with the problem and not get the symptom Les | ||
| Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member Username: Zubzub Post Number: 233 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 174.91.225.176  Rating: N/A |
depending on how much water you use distilled might be a choice. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 27 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.9.162 Rating: N/A |
good point! I'm using Fl. water (hard) a year ago i redid the set up(because i found it draging down the road one day) The new setup was great.Then we parked it for the winter. And left the water in the tank. This year the lower nozzles, about half of them are clogged. I do use a sediment filter between the tank and rig....Our set up uses 18-20 misters and we use the old rad top tank for a water supply.this year I will remember to remove the tips and let the tubes drain out.....Les, We're in the process of buying a iron filter to fix the issues w/the NC. mtn. water. We got a terminox ordered from "Budget" and plan to mount it in the trailer so we can tote it south in Oct. thanks for all your advice and help guys!!! | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 75 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
Steve Is Iron really the whole problem? Before you buy an iron filter, can I suggest that you get a water test done? If you have hard water as well as an iron problem then here is a possible way to deal with both problems for the same or possibly less money. If the hardness in your water is in a ratio with the iron of 5 to 1. 5 grains per gallon of hardness (as CoCo3) to each 1 part per million of iron, and if your iron doesn't exceed 3 parts per million then you can use a conditioner. (like a water softener but different media) This unit will need to be regenerated with water softener salt but the results are worth it. If you want to get a test and send me the results I will help with ant technical questions you have. | ||
| ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)
Registered Member Username: Shadowman Post Number: 293 Registered: 11-2003 Posted From: 72.102.230.198 Rating: N/A |
If i had a mister, i would not use anything other than distilled water. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 28 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.9.162 Rating: N/A |
Les thanks for getting back. Our NC. water has a pH of 7.5,iron is 5.0 ppm, not hard 1 grain,0 ppm alkalinity,zero copper/chlorine/nitrate/nitrite..water flow at the spigot is 15 gals a minute flow inside the coach is less than 2 gals a min..we went for the 1 cubic ft terminox unit and is supposed to handle a ppm of 10 and 10 gals a min.(If we ever built a home here we could use this unit) ...Our water in Fl is a community well,the water is hard with no iron problem, we have a kinetico duel twin stacked softener and the water is treated by the assn.also at the well..We have been drinking the water in fl.(we didn't know any better) but we do now. we plan to install an under-sink RO system with spigots at the galley and head sinks.and ice maker.Les any input you have on our NC.iron water plans ,our fl. water setup or recommendations for a 50 gpd /4 gal tank under-counter RO system would be helpful and appreciated thank you! | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1283 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.134.88 Rating: N/A |
"If i had a mister, i would not use anything other than distilled water." Amen and amen!!!!  RCB | ||
| Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva Post Number: 370 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.187.35.208  Rating: N/A |
If the water is clogging the misters then it is probably doing far more damage to the radiator. Hard water deposits on a radiator can only be removed with an acid wash and that may ruin a radiator. | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 76 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
Steve A good manganese dioxide bed will deal with the iron in your water. 1 cubic foot unit will not take out 10 p.p.m at 10 g.p.m. but it will work quite well on your 5 at a more reasonable 3 gallons per min. This bed will require back wash at high flow rates quite often. Don't base it on volume of water used before back wash because this type of bed is susceptible to compacting. You can not over back wash this media so if in question, back wash! Another name for this media is Pyrolox. similar media but from a different manufacturer. I have had very good results with it mixing it with filter media or with a burm type media. Mixing it makes the bed lighter and easier to back wash and helps a lot with the compaction issue. If you are putting this unit in your coach it will only be useful at the place you sent me the results for. If you use it on water that is not microbiological inert you will get a bacteria and you will have to sanitize the bed... Not a bad idea from time to time especially if the unit is in a warm ambient temperature. If you sanitize this unit using chlorine DO NOT USE HOUSEHOLD BLEACH!!! Did I say that loud enough? If you use it where the water is hard the calcium will foul the bed Drop me a line and I can give you a procedure to sanitize Les | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 29 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.9.162 Rating: N/A |
coming up to the hills we use a fair amount of water but the consensus seems to be that using distilled water is the way to go. the price of the water is surely cheaper than the tips/jets and anything is better than being on the side of the road in some precarious spot (because you sure don't pick um) waiting to cool down...thanx for the hep! | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1284 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.134.88 Rating: N/A |
Les...how 'bout share the sanitizing advice on "board"?... Anyone have any new ideas in setting up a mister system?...lots of sketchy stuff out there with little substance on results...(rhetoric).. Thanx. RCB | ||
| ED Hackenbruch (Shadowman)
Registered Member Username: Shadowman Post Number: 294 Registered: 11-2003 Posted From: 75.230.9.207 Rating: N/A |
Steve it sounds like you have more of a sprayer than a mister. You say that it uses a lot of water? A true mister should produce a "fog" not a fine spray. In Yuma at the Sam's Club just before we left in April, i saw that they had a mister kit for use on patios, etc., for something like $29 or $39. You would have to cut down to size but i think that you could maybe get 3-4 sets out of it. I may have to get one in the fall and try it on our veranda and see how it works and if it can be used in a bus. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1206 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.155.204.111  Rating: N/A |
and anything is better than being on the side of the road in some precarious spot (because you sure don't pick um) waiting to cool down. Most coaches do not overheat, so why not take the better approach and restore the stock cooling system ? A mister is a band aid , a real repair might work better? Frequently all it takes is a good commercial 2 step system flushing , and refilling with distilled water and fresh anti-freeze. FF | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1287 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.243.69.62 Rating: N/A |
Ahh, but Fred...some of us live in the great Hot West/Southwest....with looooong steeeeep grades. It is just a "help" along the way, of course with proper attention to other detail, as you mentioned! Ed...we have one of those contraptions for our patio...I think they would require a lot of pressure (40lbs or so) to work properly; more than a windshield washer might generate...good idea, however. Guess I'll cogitate on that a bit and see if something could be rigged up to fit the situation... Ideas anyone??? Thanx, RCB | ||
| les marston (Les_marston)
Registered Member Username: Les_marston Post Number: 77 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 68.151.225.213 Rating: N/A |
Hey chuck I just sent Steve a long e-mail on how to sanitize his iron filter but if you have a water treatment system and need advice drop me an e-mail. As for the 40 lbs of pressure. both sureflo and flowjet make a diaphragm pump in 12 volt DC that is capable of 70 lb. boost. Instead of distilling look into R.O. Much cheaper, faster and very good results Les | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 30 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.200.175.162 Rating: N/A |
the mister we have was installed when we bought our coach out west. it consists of a water tank w/shutoff, a 12v. sureflo w/stock 40Psi switch,next an in line RV type sediment water filter then to a tube loop w/sprayers attached to the inside edge of the air inlet louver door directly in front of the rad. this is a side mount rad in this bus , remember I have the 1954 rear end w/ 8 wheels so my setup is of that style ,IT IS A MISTER not a sprayer and when its happy, it works very well although it is a little messy I will take the advice and clean my rad to see it it will help run a bit cooler | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 503 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.3.170 Rating: N/A |
Several years ago there were some threads about MCI cooling issues. Some apply to any configuration, such as make sure all of the air seal flaps that seal between the radiator/s and the body are intact, That the shroud/s are intact, some just to MCI such as in the case of MCI "squirrel cage" blowers, take em out & clean the accumulated dust & dirt from each blade. The squirrel cage gets very inefficient when dirty. Our 4104 overheated so badly when we got it that you couldn't maintain 55 in FL in the winter. I pulled the radiator, took off the top & bottom tank & found that 68% of the tubes were blocked with rust flakes. I made atool by grinding the teeth off of a broken bandsaw blade turned the core upside down & rodded it out, keeping things loose with a slow garden hose flow. All tubes opened up & 9 years later it will go up a 4 mile, 8% grade without getting hot. Now, I'm getting ready to up the HP by 25% so we'll see if it can handle that. | ||
| doug yes (Dougg)
Registered Member Username: Dougg Post Number: 130 Registered: 1-2007 Posted From: 174.131.78.38 Rating: N/A |
I've used the Sam's/ Walmart misters with good results. Hooked them to an electric valve, so we can switch it on from the cockpit. | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1288 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.210.51.15 Rating: N/A |
Doug...what kind of water usage are you experiencing with that type system?... Thanx, RCB | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501 Post Number: 576 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193  Rating: N/A |
Steve, Does your 7combo have a single radiator beside the engine on the driver's side? How many rows of tubes in the core? Some of mine had only 3 where others had 5. You might be able to get a new core to bolt inbetween your tanks & not have to worry about the misters anymore. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 31 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.254.134.114 Rating: N/A |
kyle, yes my rad is on the drivers side and it has 4 rows of tubes. I just took the side of the rad off this afternoon. This morning I peeked in the empty rad top/filler and saw an unpleasant sight so I've was toying with the idea of rodding it out. #1 it's big and looks heavy.#2 I'm not big and not heavy, well, a little heavy. #3 was wondering if I was opening a can of worms...Now I'm the kinda guy that likes to do the right thing (within reasonable $)..so off came the side and it gets lighter all the time.So it looks like I can handle it.But what happens if the core is beyond rodding? Where might I find one? What would a new core cost? or even a repair? Some of the fins are in bad shape (flake off when touched) although I have no leaks......yet.....R.C. We've used 10 -15 gals in a day in the hills with 17 misters | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501 Post Number: 577 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193 Rating: N/A |
Steve, It sounds like you have a Scenicruiser radiator. Top & bottom hedders bolt on to the core with a bracket on each end bolting to the hedders. The one to the rear has hinges on it so it can swing out. You can get a new core, but you're going to have to call around. Someone on the Scenicruiser21 group just re-cored his & he paid ~$2000. A friend in FL recorred his for less than $750 with a 5 row, SO, deals are out there if you can find them. It also sounds like your radiator is near the end of it's usefull life - especially if it needs the misters. Misters are a great way to postpone replacement so you can save up for the expense. BTW, Pat McNeil (Red & Chrome Scenicruiser) replaced his radiator with an aluminium one with welded tanks. So, you do have the option of changing things around since there is so much space available in your coach as opposed to the normal MCI radiator locations. Good luck! | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 32 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.250.184.129 Rating: N/A |
thanks Kyle, yes you are correct on my rad config and OUCH! this might hirt! is there a part # on this or does it just go by overall size, bolt spacing, width to fit the tanks? | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501 Post Number: 578 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193 Rating: N/A |
The cheaper radiator came out of Miami ~2 years ago. Sorry, but I don't have any more information than that. Yes, the core is described as you said - size & bolt pattern. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 33 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.250.184.129 Rating: N/A |
I found a core at General rad for $800. I hope I wont need it. I'm thinking of defering the job untill I can get back south so I'll have a better work area, no time constrants, and some pals to bull this rad around.I'm told the sides need to stay on to support the rad tubes to remove and install so it will be real heavy. smarter for me to wait. Thank you Kyle your a big help. | ||
| Kyle Brandt (Kyle4501)
Registered Member Username: Kyle4501 Post Number: 579 Registered: 9-2004 Posted From: 65.23.106.193 Rating: N/A |
Steve, Could you please share the details of that $800 core? I'll be needing one soon & this would be very helpfull, especially after the quotes I got locally! In the mean time, use clean soft water for the misters to allow less buildup on the parts. Thanks! BTW, I'll send you a PM. | ||
| Tom Christman (Tchristman)
Registered Member Username: Tchristman Post Number: 228 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 66.218.33.156 Rating: N/A |
I had my 8V-71 turbo'd with 75 injectors, radiator enlarged to the largest core available (6 row with serpentine fins), with air to air intercooling, and it still over heats. I installed 15 misters, but it did little help. On this last trip I drilled out two of the misters with 1/16" drill. Boy! what a difference. Granted it flows alot of water, but it will pull down the coolant temp from close to 200 degress down to where the thermostats are starting to close in about 2 minutes and stay there while pulling a long grade in 95 degree weather. I should have drilled out the misters long ago! Good Luck, TomC | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 35 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.200.96.91 Rating: N/A |
Kyle, the best prices I found for my core was at General radiator Ind.( Big splashy add on the net under bus/truck bolt togather rads) these folks used to make these years ago. I got several quotes from others. General was 800 for a 4 tube and 900 for a 5 tube and would have it in the mail the next day.. I found prices up to 1500 and they all said at one point in time they made these rads. My rad is.33 3/4 high x 33 5/8 fin to fin,3 5/8 wide,7 1/2 x 36 1/2 header. 44 holes top and bottom 4 tubes.....70 for freight Hope this helps. Ps the CLR cleaned the tips in less than a minute..........s......... |
