| Author |
Message |
jared (69.20.138.161)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 6:40 pm: | |
I am in the early stages of my RTS conversion, and am about ready to build my holding tanks. I will use epoxy/fiberglass/plywood custom built tanks in order to take full advantage of the limited basement storage available to me.
My question for those of you more experienced, is has anyone tried to build thier own freshwater tanks? Epoxy is inert and waterproof when cured, so it may be possible to drink from an epoxy/fiberlglass/plywood tank, certainly showering from such a tank should not be a problem.
Does anyone have info on the potability of such a tank?
-jared 1988 RTSII |
Peter E (Sdibaja) (66.123.255.59)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2003 - 8:06 pm: | |
What you are considering has been done on boats for many years, no problem. Check on the well-written article “Fiberglass on Plywood Tanks” at http://www.busnut.com/artgm05.html
I advise using Stainless Fasteners, they are cheap and will last. Also get some air space around the outside of the tank; they do rot out from the outside if the wood does not breathe
Peter |
Rooster (193.251.14.221)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 14, 2003 - 11:20 pm: | |
plywood/frp tanks are great, IF you like to drink formaldehyde and other toxic ingredients that are in the material.
Why dont you just get some stainless steel sheet and do it the right way. SS steel only costs around a buck per pound, ie: around $100 for a 4x8 sheet.
Or if stainless steel is too expensive at that price for you, you could always use plain steel sheet and coat it on the inside with food grade expoxy, they do it all the time in the food industry.
My opinion would be to never use anything else but metal, you will just end up with leaks or health problems. |
Stephen Fessenden (Sffess) (65.130.8.111)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 14, 2003 - 11:57 pm: | |
Other alternative for fasteners is to use drywall screws ane REMOVE them after the epoxy sets and fill the screw holes with epoxy. You don't need screws after it sets.(Use epoxy as the glue in the wood joints. Leave the screw heads partway out so you can grab them with a vicegrip if they strip. square drive screws will be easier to remove.) Baffles can be wired in place with copper wire and the copper wire left in place, covered with epoxy. Use good quality plywood, not sheathing plywood. Epoxy does not give off harmful chemicals when cured. Polyester and vinylester resin do.
You can use a professional 12 inch window squeegee to spread the epoxy. Get the kind that has a metal holder to hold a replaceable rubber blade. No metal in the blade. buy a few replacement blades and wax them wiping off all wax residue. I used Johnsons paste wax. Gives a smoother finish than just allowing to flow flat. Smooth means easier to keep clean. You still need the surface you are finishing horizontal, especially the final coats, so you will need to plan to turn the box about 6 times coating the bottom board each time. Several coats required. Heat the wood before initial application, to prevent bubble trails caused by the expoxy heating the wood as it cures.
I found formby's refinshing gloves held up best to epoxy. I just pull them off inside out and rinse out with acetone after each use.
If you have not bought your resins, RAKA Epoxy in Florida is a good economical source and they will talk to you about it and have a lot more experience than most of us on the board. They also have a downloadable manual. You will probably want some filler such as silica or chopped fiber. They can advise you. You use the filler to thicken the epoxy for gluing and so you can create inside curves to both strengthen and to do away with 90 degree corners for crud to stick in. You make a tool with the radius you want, 2 or 3 inches, and just spread with the radiused tool of plastic or tileboard or any scrap. Caution, the silica is the same that causes silicosis, permanent lung disease. I learned to mix silica and epoxy in a closed 1 gallon ziploc bag, mixing the silica with the resin then adding the hardener.
These are some things I had to learn. Hope it helps you or someone.
Good Luck. |
jared (69.20.138.68)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2003 - 3:30 pm: | |
Stainless steel? I hadn't thought of that. Rooster, what do you think would be an appropriate guage of SS to work with for larger tanks (100 gallon tanks).
-j |
Pete (152.163.188.227)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 8:57 am: | |
I think it would be easier and cheaper to order a plactic tank..give then the dementions you want..they make it..no toxic stuff and its alot lighter then SS
Pete |
Rooster (200.75.10.213)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 18, 2003 - 11:38 pm: | |
I would use 18 gauge stainless steel, its not overkill and its not too light as 22 gauge would be. 18 gauge weighs about 1 pound per square foot, so it wont be *that* heavy. |
j&j (209.90.162.197)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 21, 2003 - 11:28 am: | |
to clean epoxy from tools,hands white vinagar works wonderful also non toxic and cheap |