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John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 420
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 8:17 am:   

My home air conditioner runs for a while (maybe an hour) cooling fine, then freezes up on the coil in the furnace and quits allowing air to blow through. Local freind told me this means it's low on freon. True? Can I add some myself from my cans of R-134 or do I have to bite the bullet and pay someone $200 bucks to do 15 minutes of work.
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Username: Bill_gerrie

Post Number: 366
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 216.198.139.38


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 8:31 am:   

John
Your friend is correct. Make sure your filters are clean so you get a full air flow as well. Home A/C doesn't use 134. It is generally R-22. You use to be able to get cans of it at Napa. You can add yourself if you have the gauges or a site glass in the system to see the bubbles disappear. I'm sure somebody like Nick (refrideration guy) will answer you as well.
Bill
Jim Wallin (Powderseeker01)
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Username: Powderseeker01

Post Number: 79
Registered: 10-2008
Posted From: 72.37.244.90


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 8:35 am:   

This is also sometimes a sign that you may have a leak in the evaporator coil.
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 421
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 8:51 am:   

Thanks guys, I will check out the R-22. Wisconsin is very picky about freon, I have to actually buy R-134 out of state, so I am not sure of the availability. I have an older set of guages from auto R-12 so I will do some investigating and see if the hose ends will hook up to the valves. I see two lines one about twice the size of the other and insulated so I assume that the big one would be the low presssure or return side that you would add it into. Possibility exists of a leak of some kind although it has been in here for 17 years and this is the first year I have had a problem, so maybe it is just age catching up with it.
Thanks again
John
marvin pack (Gomer)
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Username: Gomer

Post Number: 938
Registered: 3-2007
Posted From: 71.55.3.249


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 9:11 am:   

Bigrigger: The freon is low and will cause the coils to freeze up. First,as mentioned, make sure of clean filters,if the unit has not been serviced for a while you may think about cleaning the coils also. That means taking some sheet metal off. Look on the unit as it will say what freon to use. Most of the older units take r-22. If unsure of the gauges, which a R-12 gauge will work, look at the large line on the unit after you get it running again,and the gauge hooked up on it,Blue hose,left gauge, check the pressure running,usually it will run,depending on temp,from 60-70 on the outside of the gauge reading. If not there start adding R-22 in the system. Watch the large line,Suction line and it should start to sweat. Check it all the way to the compressor and add freon until you get the readings mentioned. let unit run and keep tabs on it and hopefully you will be ok. If you have real low pressure to start check for visible signs of oil leaking. that is where you have a problem and need to call Da Man. Hope this helps.

Gomer
Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
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Username: Oonrahnjay

Post Number: 562
Registered: 8-2004
Posted From: 70.61.105.213


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 9:17 am:   

John, 17 years is a remarkable life for an AC in lots of places. I'd try to milk a few more years out of it but I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't time to send it to the Happy Evaporating Hunting Grounds in the sky.
Donald P H (Eagle19952)
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Username: Eagle19952

Post Number: 29
Registered: 11-2007
Posted From: 75.202.24.242

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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 3:12 pm:   

it MAY be the freon level BUT I would absolutely thaw out the evap COMPLETELY TO A TOTALLY DRY STATE and then vacuum/clean it COMPLETELY/ANALY....IF the air flow through it is reduced enough icing WILL OCCUR !!!
be very certain that your filter is adequate AND clean.no matter how well you filter, fiber, lint and dust can and does get through....
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 422
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 9:05 pm:   

Thanks again guys. I did clean the evaporator, but because it is almost inaccessable i just did the surface "blind" and I don't think it was completley dry, so I will try that route next. Appreciate it all.

John
George M. Todd (George_todd)
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Username: George_todd

Post Number: 1047
Registered: 8-2006
Posted From: 99.184.9.29

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Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 9:53 pm:   

First off, this has to be taken with some humor!
I've had my A/C Contractor's license two years longer than you have had your A/C, I haven't cleaned it yet, and it still doesn't need it!
Yours is about 7 years overdue. We contractors don't put filters in our units to be benevolent, we build them in to protect the evaporator coil from dirt! So, check the filter first, the supply registers next, (women tend to close them) return ducting between the filter and the furnace next, (possible collapsed duct due to a dirty filter,) the RPM of the blower motor, (a failing capacitor will cause heating and low speed) and the evaporator coil last.

With the filter removed, check for LOTS of air flow into the return duct. If flow is "low," that's the icing problem.

Your unit will use R-22 WHICH YOU CANNOT BUY IN THE US WITHOUT AN EPA CARD. Whatever you do, DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT PUTTING 134a IN IT!!! (Unless you want to buy a new compressor.)

Fittings are the same for cars with R-12 and houses with R-22, only the pressures are much higher on 22. Using hoses without anti-blowback fittings is asking for frostbite and/or eye injury.

After you have verified that you have good air flow, feel the large (suction) line at the condensing unit after 5 min of operation. It should be cold to the touch, and the unit should be putting off hot air. If the line is not cold, the discharge air will not be hot, and you are probably low on Freon. How you are going to get some 22, I don't know, but the reason we get what we do for it, is that we know how much to put in!
G
John & Barb Tesser (Bigrigger)
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Username: Bigrigger

Post Number: 423
Registered: 9-2007
Posted From: 96.42.5.35


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Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 8:25 am:   

Thanks George, I guess I intuitively knew that it was not going to be a good idea with the r134, however in these days of ever dwindling funds and increasing expenses one is always looking for a way to save a buck. Thank you for your straightforward answer to my questions. I will check the easy stuff first and leave the costly parts to the pros. Now about that homemade self administered lasik eye surgery....



John
Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
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Username: Oonrahnjay

Post Number: 564
Registered: 8-2004
Posted From: 70.61.105.213


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Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 11:14 am:   

John, this is a fight that I'm right in the middle of. I bought a house in 2000, built in 1995. The A/C guy showed me the shoddy, flimsy stuff (what he called "contractor's models") that they'd built into the air conditioning systems when the house was built. I have two units, the main one for downstairs and basement and a smaller one for upstairs. I had to replace the main unit about a year ago and I expect that the upstairs one will not last more than a year or so more.
The good news is that the gummint came out with new Energy-Efficiency guidelines in the late 1990's and new systems give you a lot more cool for the $$$ it takes to run them.
I'm of the opinion that money spent on good quality air conditioning equipment is money well spent. (Kinda like Lasik - don't wanna cheap out!)
Len Silva (Lsilva)
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Username: Lsilva

Post Number: 373
Registered: 12-2000
Posted From: 72.187.35.208


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Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 2:41 pm:   

Keep in mind that if you replace the entire system with a high efficiency unit before Dec 31, 2010, there is a 30% tax incentive up to $1500 (on a $5000 unit).

The local government and the power company may also have some incentives for you. That's not counting the significant amount you might save on electricity.

It would not be a good thing for you to keep patching it up and then it blows up on Jan 1 after the incentive expires. After 17 years, it's time.

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