| Author | Message | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 67 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
On our maiden voyage in our 'new' bus, we spent two weeks in various places in Michigan and points in between Kansas City. A few times I tried to run the front rooftop A/C unit (Carrier V - 15K btu) to cool the driver/passenger area on the bus while we were rolling down the road. I have the house bank (4 Type 31 in series/parallel 24V) connected through an isolator for OTR charging and the inverter (TRACE 4024) will run the front A/C unit. However, even running the front unit on MAX cool for an hour or more did not give us any significant cooling - in fact, it just got hotter inside since we had all of the windows closed. The heat from the rear of the bus (bedroom/bath) was just overwhelming the cooling capacity of the front unit. Am I expecting too much from this unit or is it possible that it's just not working up to it capacity? I thought it would at least keep the driver and passenger area relatively cool - I don't expect it to freeze us out, but be better than straight windows ventilation. Any ideas? Thanks | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 53 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.203.41.127  Rating: N/A |
If it's summer we have to run at LEAST 2 AC's + gen driving down the road.Between the engine heat the friction the bus creates and then there's the intense sun It is kinda overwhelming.Might work with a curtain | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 68 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Yes, the engine really heats up the back end of my bus! I would guess it is well over 100 in the bedroom. We were running on a hot summer day with temps in the 90's and humidity also in the 90's. | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 54 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.203.41.127 Rating: N/A |
another thing,None of us have to worry about sleeping in a cold bed.After a days run the aft AC runs all night long. lol | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 55 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.203.41.127 Rating: N/A |
we will run with a aft roof vent open to purge some heat out the top while AC's cool the bottom half we're sitting in. we also have personal mini fans for the pilot & copilot seats to get the AC on us | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 531 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.3.170 Rating: N/A |
Our 4104 is smaller and we're warm with two 15K Coleman units running. We often curtain off the back but leave the back air on. The original bus airs were really huge, maybe 7 tons so 1.25 tons doesn't get it. Plus, you will have very little cooling when moving. I think it's more about air leaks in the front of the bus and leaky window seals, etc. check the front for leaks. You know, in a car which has way more tonnage and less volume, cracking 1 window one inch removes almost all the AC. I would install two more airs in the front half of the bus or 1 roof air & one engine driven dash air like a Red Dot system. | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 69 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
I had hoped to avoid running two diesel engines while running down the road. Would additional insulation behind and under the bed make an appreciable difference? I tried running with my FanTastic Vent Fan open in the bathroom, but the wind pressure broke the plastic mount the cover is connected to - another thing to fix! I also thought about adding another vent fan in the ceiling of the bedroom to exhaust the heat, but then where does the incoming air come from? | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 57 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.203.41.127 Rating: N/A |
Its always nice to get in by 3 or so. we can shut off the noisemaker and start to cool down the cabin.6 hours and drinks make for a good nites sleep | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 70 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
By 'noisemaker' do you mean the engine, genset or both? Don't you have to run the gen to cool down the cabin? What size genset do you have? Mine is 6.6 KW PowerTech. Doesn't running the genset while running down the road cost a lot in diesel fuel? | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 550 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 66.165.176.62  Rating: N/A |
Jim one other thing to consider I have found my front rooftop does just fine while stopped but has trouble keeping up running down the road due to air leaks around the entry door | ||
| Greg Roberts (Eagle 20) (Gregeagle20)
Registered Member Username: Gregeagle20 Post Number: 290 Registered: 4-2002 Posted From: 72.0.43.244 Rating: N/A |
I have three units installed but generally use only the front and the rear units while under way and with outside temps 100 or below. Over 100 and I usually turn on the third unit. I have the walls, floor and ceiling filled with refer foam and also have built a door that seals well. I use Bali honeycomb type shades on the side windows and this helps a lot. We do not feel the effects of the heat from the engine due to several inches of refer foam and also our bunks are actually forward and over the rear axles. If I close off the back half of the coach I can then run on the front roof unit from the inverter up to about 100. The rear of the coach, however, will get a bit warm and require a little time to cool down after arriving at a camp site. I have built a very tight coach and have few air leaks if any. | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 71 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
What is refer foam? Is that the same as the spray foam or is that a sheet type material? Thanks | ||
| steve wardwell (Steve_wardwell)
Registered Member Username: Steve_wardwell Post Number: 58 Registered: 2-2010 Posted From: 75.201.80.48 Rating: N/A |
by noisemaker I meant our Detroit, you know our screamin demon. and yes we run a 15kw gen most nights (Unless we are on a short hop) so we wont be cooked by morn...Jim incoming air comes from everywhere (in mine case seems like mostly from the battery area. Hence the CO's blowing off <-- inside joke | ||
| Laryn Christley (Barn_owl)
Registered Member Username: Barn_owl Post Number: 671 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 153.2.247.30  Rating: N/A |
The smallest leak while traveling in those conditions will make life miserable. One A/C unit doesn’t stand a chance. One possibility I have seen others do is to duct the outlet so it blows directly on you as you travel. I have seen it be as simple and as cheap as an accordion dryer hose which can easily and quickly be put up and taken down. Not elegant, but somewhat effective. The bus is not cool, but at least you are. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1887 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.89.177.94  Rating: |
Air intrusion, as noted, defeats a lot of air conditioning. It is the number one issue, long before insulation ever comes into play. Moving at highway speed, there is a tremendous pressure on the front, and a tremendous vacuum along the sides, just aft of the front. The defroster is intended to have outside air, and has a damper door for closing up, if it is working, there are door and window seals that must be tight, there are the stock HVAC air inlets along the sides, and the gaps and crevices that time and travel have opened up over the years. The solution may be two fold, get the seals up to snuff, and/or add more AC. popularly amongst busnuts, the term "noisemaker" is used in reference to the generator. Running the generator while going down the road uses the same fuel as sitting around while camping. Depending on the unit, somewhere, give or take, a gallon per hour or a little less. A Trace 4024 will run two roof airs off the coach alternator quite well, just be sure the Trace has an ample supply of fresh cold air to take away the heat it makes doing it. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Greg Roberts (Eagle 20) (Gregeagle20)
Registered Member Username: Gregeagle20 Post Number: 291 Registered: 4-2002 Posted From: 72.0.43.244 Rating: N/A |
Refer foam is a two part heated foam that is used on refrigerated trailers/rail cars and such. It works really well but is not cheap. | ||
| david anderson (Davidanderson)
Registered Member Username: Davidanderson Post Number: 259 Registered: 2-2004 Posted From: 69.153.58.201 Rating: N/A |
It's been really hot all around the country the past 2 weeks. One just won't do it. I run at least two, and most of the time 3. I'd rather see my wife a bit cold than sweat beads on her face. I use the genny when I run 2 or more. The only time I've been warm is westbound going into the 4pm sun. Those big windshields really let the driver get cooked. David | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1246 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.153.142.249  Rating: N/A |
The first question is what color is the bus , and the roof? FF | ||
| John MC9 (John_mc9)
Registered Member Username: John_mc9 Post Number: 1172 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.162.79.161  Rating: |
Re: "What is refer foam? " It was the foam that resulted from doing a doobie and having a beer at the same time. (or that was -my- understanding)  . | ||
| Len Silva (Lsilva)
Registered Member Username: Lsilva Post Number: 387 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 72.187.35.208  Rating: N/A |
Some years ago Consumer reports had a calculator for room air conditioners. When I applied all the figures from my bus, exterior wall area, no attic, window area, insulation, cooking, bathing etc. the calculations were very high. I don't remember exactly but it was several tons. When you threw in a steady 65 MPH wind, it went out of sight. I just found it here: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/heating-cooling-and-air/air-conditioners/sizing-worksheet/ (Message edited by lsilva on July 24, 2010) | ||
| Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow Post Number: 118 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 98.232.202.3  Rating: N/A |
Too bad they dont make the bus like a jet liner.. pressurized. | ||
| Jack Conrad (Jackconrad)
Registered Member Username: Jackconrad Post Number: 1315 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 75.246.188.213  Rating: N/A |
We run our 10 KW PowerTech to operate our basement AC while driving. The generator only uses about 0.3-0.4 GPH. Well worth it to drive comfortably. Jack | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 1076 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.62.7.26 Rating: N/A |
What are we referring to? I think he meant REEFER foam, as in the slang for refrigerators. G | ||
| Tom Christman (Tchristman)
Registered Member Username: Tchristman Post Number: 235 Registered: 1-2006 Posted From: 66.218.33.156 Rating: N/A |
I have three 13,500btu Coleman roof tops as our only A/C. I run the Powertech 10kw going down the road, and in 108 degree weather I run the very front and the rear to counteract the heat from the engine. With 2.25" of sprayed foam, single lightly tinted Penn windows, the bus stays in the 70's while driving. Good Luck, TomC | ||
| Justin Griffith (Justin25taylor)
Registered Member Username: Justin25taylor Post Number: 52 Registered: 4-2007 Posted From: 69.149.24.130 Rating: N/A |
This year has been super, super hot! I have a 3.5 ton basement unit that will not keep up while running down the road. In fact it barely keeps up while parked. Especially in the sun. I have to use the "bus air" while moving, I also try to get the bus down to about 60 degrees with the bus air before I stop for the day to try and get a head start on the heat that comes up from the engine. I have been thinking about adding a roof unit in the rear escape hatch to help on super hot days. I have an 18KW generator, so i should be fine. Maybe with that extra cooling, I would not have to use the bus air, especially when driving in the mountains. The 8V92 tries to run a little warm while climbing lately. Might be time to re- core the radiator. Running the bus air while driving brings the fuel economy down more than turning it off and running the generator and basement unit. Summers like this really make me happy I keep the bus air ready to go. I could not imagine what I would do if the generator or basement unit died while on the road if I did not have bus air. | ||
| R.C.Bishop (Chuckllb)
Registered Member Username: Chuckllb Post Number: 1337 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 75.244.178.132 Rating: N/A |
You may....just find out some day...   . BTDT RCB | ||
| Justin Griffith (Justin25taylor)
Registered Member Username: Justin25taylor Post Number: 53 Registered: 4-2007 Posted From: 68.93.132.156 Rating: N/A |
Like everything else, I am sure it will. I just hope it does it when it is a little cooler....... | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 73 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
"A Trace 4024 will run two roof airs off the coach alternator quite well, just be sure the Trace has an ample supply of fresh cold air to take away the heat it makes doing it." Thats' good to know! I assumed that one A/C unit was all it could handle. The problem is that my front A/C is on the inverter house panel and the rear A/C is on the shore/gen only panel. Any way to switch the rear from one side of the panel to the other (other than moving the breaker)? Will the engine alt keep the start and house batts charged if I'm using the TRACE to run both A/C units? That seems like a lot to expect. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1122 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.36  Rating: N/A |
Jim, if you have the big Delco 50DN, it has an output capacity of around 6,500 watts (270 amps at 24 volts) and is rated to produce that continuously. Roof airs typically use 1,700-1,800 watts (including inverter losses) while running steady-state, so with two running you'd still have over 2,900 watts, or 120 amps, to run everything else on the coach and charge batteries. That's plenty. We routinely run two air conditioners, one which draws 1,700 watts and another which draws over 2,000 watts, while driving, and still have fully charged batteries after a few hours -- and our battery bank is enormous (920 amp-hours). In a pinch we have been known to run three air conditioners while driving, but this uses up the full capacity of our inter-tie, and leaves just enough alternator capacity left to run the chassis loads. HTH, -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 75 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Thanks for that info Sean, So I could move the breaker for the rear A/C to the inverter side of the panel for running down the road. Judging from the other posts on this thread, that still may not be enough to bring the temp down much - considering the engine heat that accumulates in the bedroom and bath. It's worth a try though. The problem is that will put both A/C units on the same side of the panel. My genset has two 120V legs - one to each side of the house panel. I don't think one leg of my genset can handle both A/C units. (PowerTech 6.6 KW AA 55Amp - so each leg is probably about 25amps each). So if I understand the set up I would have to move the breaker back to side 2 of the house panel for use w/ the genset. That's why I was asking about a switch of some kind? Maybe better to add a 3rd A/C unit? Perhaps one of those dash units (Red Dot) that Jim Bob mentions? | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 134 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 69.97.173.50 Rating: N/A |
We have a 13,500 AC, 10cf house frig., a small batt. charger holding the only a auto 12V. house batt. on a 90+ day the AC holds the bus at 80-82, with the thermostat turned to high to allow the compressor to shut down rather than max cool. The killow watt meter never went over 1675 watts. I keep the bus cool at the high the heat of the day and evening. Oh I painted it Rustolium bright white to below the windiows,and keeping the heavy drapes closed. We are not in the bus it is at our house and I am doing some upgrades. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1123 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.36 Rating: N/A |
So I could move the breaker for the rear A/C to the inverter side of the panel for running down the road. ... The problem is that will put both A/C units on the same side of the panel. ... I would have to move the breaker back to side 2 of the house panel for use w/ the genset. That's why I was asking about a switch of some kind? ... We had a similar issue which I solved with a 30-amp double-throw relay. The relay connects the air conditioner to the inverter only under specific circumstances. In your case, I would use two relays, one double-pole with 30 amp, 120-vac contacts and 12-volt coil, which would be operated by the alternator's Relay terminal. That would switch the A/C from its default breaker over to the inverter only when the alternator is charging. (Or connect this to whatever signal you use to connect the inverter/house system to the alternator while running.) The other relay would be a normally closed item with 120vac coil and contacts rated for 12-vdc. This relay would interrupt the coil leads of the first relay whenever the genny is running. This would ensure that the A/C was on the proper side of the genny when the both the genny and alternator are running. To implement this you will need two circuit breakers for the A/C. The one you already have now on the non-inverter leg of the panel, and another one on the inverter panel. The relay would switch the A/C's input power between the outputs of these two breakers. Perhaps one of those dash units (Red Dot) that Jim Bob mentions? The Red Dot dash unit, which is what we use downstairs, does not provide an electric compressor. It expects to be connected to an engine-driven compressor and condenser setup. We connected ours instead to a 120-vac refrigeration compressor and a Red Dot condenser with a 24-vdc condenser fan. That's the 2,000-watt unit I mentioned above. This is a very expensive and fiddly way to go and I would not recommend it to anyone who does not need to do it (we had no choice -- a roof unit won't reach our downstairs cockpit). -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 76 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Thanks Sean, I'd love to be able to implement that, however, its currently beyond my electrical experience. I'm not sure I know where to buy the components to begin with. I'd need to draw myself a picture. But, just for clarification, the 24V house bank/inverter system is connected directly to an isolator (connected to the alt) that keeps the 24V house bank from draining the starter batts. Would that be an appropriate place to connect the the first relay? If so, that would be a 24V 'signal', so wouldn't the relay coil also have to be 24V? | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1124 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.36 Rating: N/A |
No, the relay needs to be connected either directly to the Relay terminal on the alternator (12v) or the old blower circuit in the coach (24v). Suitable relays are available from Del City, Newark, Allied, and Grainger, among others. Should be around $10 or so. If you are using an isolator, you need to also be sure the isolator is rated for the amount of extra current you will need to run the A/Cs. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 532 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.3.170 Rating: N/A |
The red dot system is an engine driven air conditioner. That's why I suggested it for the dash. You'd have the engine to drive it while travelling and you probably would not need it when parked. I have seen these driven by the genset engine as well which would allow you to use it while parked but it would reduce the genset output. If you have a very large genset, like 16-20KW it would probably be just fine. In the Southeast and Ohio (IIRC) Red Dot is distributed by WW Williams, the Detroit and Allison distributor. They (or any of the other distributors) would have no problem engineering your application. That's what they do with Red Dot. They put air conditioning in cranes, mining trucks, backhoes, etc. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1255 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.153.142.249 Rating: N/A |
"The red dot system is an engine driven air conditioner." Some are , but the new 12v or 24v units run from a big battery bank. Made for the small sleeper condos on OTR trucks , most just need 12 hours of operation before batt recharge. Limited space , good insulation and the truck folks can live with no noisemaker . I think Dometic competes in the 12V air cond market too. FF | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 77 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Thanks to everyone for their responses. I'd like to try to implement Sean's suggestion to use a couple of relays and a second breaker. I'm not an electrician, so I can't draw a nice ladder diagram or use CAD to present a nice schematic, but here in text is what I came up with and I have a few questions to follow. I'm sorry this post is so long, but I'm hoping an expert will be patient enough to try to understand this and give me some specific suggestions: My house panel has two sides: Side 1 is fed by Gen/Shore 50A/Inverter. Side 2 is fed by Gen/Shore 30A,50A only. The normal breaker for rear A/C is on side 2. Gen/Shore input is controled by ESCO 350 Automatic Transfer Switch. Only side 1 is fed by inverter. Both sides of house panel are hot w/ Gen and 50A shore. Only Side 2 is hot on 30A shore. Inverter has 120VAC input from gen and either 30a or 50a shore. 1. Add a second breaker for rear a/c on side 1. Output from the second breaker goes to the 'input' of Relay 1 contactor. 2. Relay 1 is a normally open, w/ 12VDC coil and 120VAC contactor. (I hope my terminology is correct here. When I say normally open I mean that the contactor only closes and completes the circuit when 12vDC is applied to coil side). 3. Relay 1 contactor output goes to rear A/C. 4. Relay 2 is a normally closed (meaning the contactor opens or disconnects when voltage is applied to coil), w/120VAC coil and 12VDC contactor. Input to the contactor of relay 2 is 12VDC 'signal' from the relay terminal of alternator. Output of contactor goes to the 12VDC coil of Relay 1. 5. Input to the 120VAC coil side of relay 2 is 120VAC feed to side 2 of the house panel (hot when gen/shore is 'on'). Will that work? Is it safe? Am I missing any logical possibilities. I included Shore power in the mix because I think I only want the rear a/c to work off the inverter when ONLY the engine is running. If I have shore power or generator or generator and engine, in those cases, I only want the rear a/c to run off of side 2. Some followup questions: 1. Should the 12VDc 'signal' from the relay terminal of the alternator be fused before going to relay 2? 2. I only have one 120VAC lead to the rear A/C and I can't run another. Is it OK to join the two 120VAC outputs to the rear a/c in a junction box? Only one would ever be hot (I think). 3. Do the relays need to be inside some kind of enclosure of box? 4. What type and size wire should I use for these circuits? 5. I went out to Grainger and there are so many different types of relays! Can someone be more specific regarding the type of relays I need? Sean said 'double throw', but what about single pole, double pole, etc. What does double pole mean? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1126 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.14 Rating: N/A |
Jim, Some clarifications. First, you need to use a double-throw relay to select which power source the A/C is connected to. It is NOT permissible to simply parallel the inputs on the theory that only one will be energized, for many reasons. The double-throw relay ensures that only one power source may ever be connected at any given time. Yes, the relay and all wiring must be enclosed in a proper electrical box. No need for the relay to be out by the A/C -- it's easier to put it right next to the electrical panel. This way you re-use the existing branch wiring to the A/C, just moving the end from the panel to the new relay enclosure. The only new wiring you need to run then are two very short circuits from the two panel sides to the new enclosure. This wiring should be the same gauge as the original A/C circuit. The type of relay you need is SPDT (single-pole, double-throw). Google those terms and you will find several sites on the Internet that will teach you about switch and relay poles. Here is a relay that will work: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Power-Relay-5Z554?Pid=search Note this has 24vdc coils. You would operate this relay with a 24-volt signal from the old coach blower circuit, which is probably easier to access and certainly more straightforward to use than the alternator Relay signal. The old coach blower circuit is itself wired so that it is only energized when the alternator is charging. Yes, you should fuse the wire from the blower circuit to the relay. You can interrupt this 24-volt signal with the "normally closed" side of this relay: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OMRON-General-Purpose-Relay-1YCY8?Pid=search You would power the 120vac coils of this relay with the same circuit that feeds the A/C from the generator-only side. If you mount this relay in the same enclosure as the first relay, all of the 120vac components and wiring will be short and properly enclosed, and only the 24vdc signal from the old blower circuit will be long. That wire can be almost any gauge you have lying around, as the relay draws a tiny amount of current (0.084 amp). Hope that clears things up a bit. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (Message edited by Sean on July 28, 2010) (Message edited by Sean on July 28, 2010) (Message edited by Sean on July 28, 2010) | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1127 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.14 Rating: N/A |
Addendum: I have been assuming here that your existing panel has a common neutral bus; that is, the neutral output from the inverter is tied together with the neutral from the other side of the panel. If that's not the case, then your relay will need to switch not only the hot, but also the neutral and you will need a DPDT rather than SPST relay. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 78 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Thank you, Sean! That is an excellent idea to google those terms. I will begin my self-education immediately. I will check my panel, but I am fairly sure the existing panel has a common neutral. Should I also plan to buy a socket for the flange mount relay or is it permissible to connect directly to the pins w/ a tab type connector? -Jim | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1128 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.14 Rating: N/A |
No need for a socket; I suggested that relay because it can be mounted "upside down" (pins up, or out) with the built-in flange, and then you can use standard female spade crimp terminals for the connections. I passed over a handful of cheaper relays in the catalog because they would require a socket, wiping out any savings. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Jim Wilkerson (Wagwar)
Registered Member Username: Wagwar Post Number: 79 Registered: 12-2009 Posted From: 99.109.187.242 Rating: N/A |
Thank you very much, Sean. | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1260 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 99.153.142.249 Rating: N/A |
and keeping the heavy drapes closed. This may or may not be a good deal. IF the side of the drapes the sun hits is white on white drapes or window shades are grand. If the color is dark ,any inside window material will absorb heat from the sun and radiate it into the coach , regardless of thickness. FF |
