| Author | Message | ||
| Russell Beam (Rcbeam)
Registered Member Username: Rcbeam Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2009 Posted From: 72.250.169.58  Rating: N/A |
This may seem like a dumb question to many of you, but when I bought my converted MC8 the P/O had removed the bus heat and a/c, except he left the drivers heater. The gate valves in the back were closed. I am trying to get the drivers heater to work but cannot figure out a way to close off the piping to/from where the main heater core. When I sit in the front bay, facing front, I see two green, large, metal tubes sticking down from the top on each side about 2 inches long and are close to the compartment door. One appears to run up and to the main water valve overhead. From the diagram in the manual I assume this is the supply and return from the heater core. My thought was to just buy a heater hose of the right diameter and just connect the two together but I'd really like to just seal them off so I can open the gate valves and get hot water to the drivers core. What did any of the rest of you do when you removed the main heater to keep the drivers heater? Thanks in advance for any info and opinions. Russell MC8 Lexington KY | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 139 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 69.97.185.43 Rating: N/A |
If the PO closed off the inlet and outlet to the big bus heator, check the valve at your left foot, next open the bleed port on top of the defrost/drivers heat, you may need to run engine at fast idle or faster to bleed that core. I closed off the inlet and outlet to the bus heator, even removed the solenoid valve. The flow to the defrost/drivers heat in my MC-8 is straight off n back into the return line. They reduce the size of the lines and there is a off on valve next to your left foot, I do not turn off that valve. Now one thing I did not do and it bit me big time, one must check the blowers in the defrost/heat housing, one had a broken mount(not repairable) the other the squirrel cage loosened. So it was take it apart, repair some and go on. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1911 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.91.144.239  Rating: |
I would cap the lines that went to the heater core, otherwise you will have two problems: little heat in the defroster, as all the coolant will go the easy way through your added hose, and the good chance for overheating, as the hot coolant is being fed back to the engine without shedding any heat. In capping, you want to be capping the lines as the headed to the heater core, beyond where the lines to the defroster continue. If those pipes are open, it would be best to leave the big valves in the back closed until you get them sealed somehow. Be sure that there is something for the hose clamps to grip, the pressure in those lines will slide a piece of pipe and a hose clamp off. Some extra mechanical assistance will be required. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Tony LEE (T_lee)
Registered Member Username: T_lee Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2007 Posted From: 59.154.42.140 Rating: |
" My thought was to just buy a heater hose of the right diameter and just connect the two together" The main heater valve is normally open (and so requires power to close it) so connecting the two pipes with a hose would just bypass most of the coolant leaving little for the drivers heater. Capping both pipes would be the best way. | ||
| Russell Beam (Rcbeam)
Registered Member Username: Rcbeam Post Number: 17 Registered: 11-2009 Posted From: 74.131.50.239 Rating: N/A |
Buswarrior: I'm confused by "Be sure that there is something for the hose clamps to grip, the pressure in those lines will slide a piece of pipe and a hose clamp off. Some extra mechanical assistance will be required." I have about 1-1/2 ro 2" of stub sticking down from the ceiling of the compartment that I assume had hoses attached that went to the heater core. Are you saying that I cannot simply put a rubber cap on there with hose clamps? I may not be following the logic here. Surely someone else has removed the heater core and dealt with this problem. Thanks, | ||
| Tim Brandt (Timb)
Registered Member Username: Timb Post Number: 562 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 99.122.63.218  Rating: N/A |
I think what he is saying is that a hose on a smooth piece of pipe without some sort of flare on it will slide off but I have been known to be wrong  | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 140 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.195.5.98 Rating: N/A |
BW means you need a hump on the pipe, look at the hump on/near the end of a heator/radiator outlet. I cut the end/nub off the solnoid water valve and installed a copper cap, did both sides that way. | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1913 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.91.147.228 Rating: |
Yes, what those guys said. The heater core was plumbed in pipe. It has been sawed off. When the hose clamp slides off, you'll be laying antifreeze down like a water bomber out the bottoms of the bay doors. PO had installed a coupler in my Webasto plumbing with a smooth piece of pipe. It is inline with the same heater pipes you are dealing with. Off it slid... Wiring the hose clamps to something solid down the pipe with a suitably sized wire to provide a mechanical leash to prevent them sliding away has been known to work. happy coaching! buswarrior |
