| Author | Message | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 440 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114  Rating: N/A |
Quick question... The injector timing gauge J1242 required for my N65 injectors states it is 1.484. Does the 1.484 refer to the actual measurement of the gauge? And also the distance from the flat spot on the injector around where the gauge is inserted into the hole to the top of the follower? (1.484 inch) Extended weekends are for bus maintenance... Right? . | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 926 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.32.80.29 Rating: N/A |
It is the distance of the shaft from the insert pin to the bottom of the of the gauge. good luck | ||
| Jim Blumenthal (Jimblu)
Registered Member Username: Jimblu Post Number: 22 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 208.168.255.124 Rating: N/A |
You can use a dial gauge caliper to set them. As long as you are flat and square at the base next to the hole for the tool it works fine. (I actually like to do it that way.) You don't count the hole as part of the measurement. It is easier to see how much it changes each time you tighten the nut. | ||
| Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member Username: Zubzub Post Number: 253 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 70.52.29.224  Rating: N/A |
I really wish there was a youtube clip of this, either with a dial gage or the timing gage....I have looked at the manual and I don't really get it....HINT HINT Zimtok. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 441 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114 Rating: N/A |
It is what I thought then... I will try to get video but at the very least I'll get some photos... I'm going to try to do it this weekend on SUNDAY-SUNDAY-SUNDAY.... I also have to 1. replace some spokes in my motorcycle rim, patch the tube, 2. install a header gasket on the truck, change oil 3. cut grass and smoke it OH no not really.... ..... A side note: I still have not found the electrical problem where my lights, drivers fan, etc dim/slow down/loose voltage as I make a right turn. As soon as I find the problem I'll post it... | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 442 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114 Rating: N/A |
I have another question... How many of you out there have a hose that goes from an engine block access plate to the air compressor inlet? I assume it is to give the compressor partially pressurized air from the blower. I don't see it in the bus manuals... . | ||
| Dallas Farnworth (Dallas)
Registered Member Username: Dallas Post Number: 71 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 75.91.201.157  Rating: N/A |
The hose is probably some PO's idea to suck the oil out of the drip tubes or something. Electrical problem: Does the city horn work? ( the one on the steering wheel)? If not, it could be that the insulation has shredded over the years and now grounds out when making a turn. I had that happen on an old GMC crackerbox cabover truck. It drove me crazy for awhile, and I've been told I never fully recovered! | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 443 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114 Rating: N/A |
The city horn does not work, but that doesn't mean that the wire is not still live. I thought the horn button worked as the ground circuit to make the horn activate. If it was shorting to ground then the horn would be blowing. AND the dimming is only when I make a right turn/curve. Not when I am sitting still turning the wheel. I think it has to do with something that the g-force is causing from turning right. Sometimes when the bus rocks toward the drivers side it will do it on a straightaway. | ||
| Patrick levenson (Zubzub)
Registered Member Username: Zubzub Post Number: 254 Registered: 5-2007 Posted From: 70.52.29.224 Rating: N/A |
I had some very worn insulation on a few of my wires in fact the wires to the headlights managed a dead short a couple of years ago. The places I found the worst ones were just below the front jusnction panel where the bundles of wires start their journeys to the back/front/??. Good luck, I'm still chasing shorts. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 1958 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157  Rating: N/A |
While you are at it, check and clean engine to engine support ground strap connections, starter wire bulkhead connection and battery box ground to chassis connection. The problem in turns could be twisting of engine, engine frame, or body flex at those connections, and not up front. Do you still have positive ground? | ||
| Jim Wilke (Jim Bob) (Pd41044039)
Registered Member Username: Pd41044039 Post Number: 554 Registered: 2-2001 Posted From: 184.0.3.170  Rating: N/A |
Austin, my 4104 has the air compressor inlet coming from one of the hand hole covers on the engine. I think there may have been some benefit in partially pressurized air but I think an even more likely reason for this is so that you do not need a separate air filter for the compressor. I tried rigging a foam filter for the compressor and was amazed at how much suction there was. It would clog up fast on the road. I want to remove the connection from the hand hole cover and connect it to the air intake tubing so it draws air through the engine's filters but not the oily air box air. I have a fair amount of oil in my air system and I think it is drawn from the air box. I think the compressor's use reduces the engine's power just as a loose hose or clamp ruins the turbo boost on a turbo engine. I need every one of them ponies! My 4104 is a 1959 model. | ||
| Austin Scott Davis (Zimtok)
Registered Member Username: Zimtok Post Number: 444 Registered: 9-2006 Posted From: 209.156.24.114 Rating: N/A |
WELL.... Fist, thanks for all the ideas. It's great to bounce ideas off of people with experience. The injector replacement went well. I did take some video but it may be a while till I get it posted. In short; I only had one injector that was kinda stuck all others popped right out. ALL injectors were within the timing gauge setting of 1.483-1.486. I felt that this was good. I have not run the rack or reset the idle speed yet but it runs good with only a little surging at idle. It seems to rev quicker. Electrical: I still have the positive ground. I have thought that it may be a ground problem as the body flexes. My plan is to check all the ground straps and even add a few more. I'm not sure it has all the original ground straps. My starter cable needs to be replaced as the insulation is cracking. I slipped a length of garden hose over it temporarily. I may remove the hose between the block and compressor just to see if I have an increase of power. If I do then I'll try to fit an air cleaner to the compressor. . |