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Chris 85 RTS (207.239.72.45)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 4:27 pm:   

Just wondering how big of a mistake I am making here. I got a great deal on some 1/8 inch wall panelling at Home Depot. Less than 100 bucks to cover the inside of my RTS. I used 1.5 inch x 1.5 inch ferring strips the entire length of the bus about 2 feet or less apart. I am stapling the panelling to the ferring strips with 1 inch staples every 3 inches.

I have read that some people are using 1/4 inch plywood screwed up. If I did that, I'd still be on my first piece. Any comments before I get too far along.
Ace (24.28.44.126)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 5:04 pm:   

What your about to do is ok for some and yourself if you'll be happy with it but most would prefer to have a more solid celing to secure things such as cabinets or door frames!

Just an opinion and remember, even though you got a deal, you get what you pay for in the end!

Ace
Chris 85 RTS (207.239.72.45)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 5:16 pm:   

Thanks for the reply Ace.

I thought about that very issue. Here's some more details. My door frames are installed before the ceiling. Screwed with 3 inch screws to each ferring strip they cross. (Ferring strips are screwed with self tapping screws every two feet.)

I have seen alot of discussion about cabinet mounting. I am planning on lag screwing each cabinet to the ferring strips with 90 degree brackets to the inside of the cabinets. I did not think that even 1/4 plywood would hold a screw enough for an overhead cabinet.

So, I guess I was thinking that all the 1/8 inch needed to support was whatever head liner I was using.

Also, I did screw 1/4 plywood on the bathroom walls, so that my tileboard would have a good base and to give racking strength to the walls.
Scott Whitney (66.82.9.25)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 8:49 pm:   

Most RVs, even some of the high dollar jobbies, use very thin wall and ceiling material. Just visit an RV dealer and when the salesman turns his head, push on a wall or the ceiling with the palm of your hand. It will surprise you how much it flexes. But it looks reasonably nice and is very easy to work with. You can cut access panels, run wiring etc. thru it, with an Exacto knife.

I prefer something a little more robust for my bus. I used/am using 3/8" plywood on the walls and tongue-and-groove knotty pine planks on the ceiling.

Cabinets will be attached using a pocket jig (I decided to buy one after reading the replies to my post about staples) to my ceiling furring strips, the 3/8" plywood, and the steel bus frame.

Scott
Ace (24.28.44.126)

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 9:18 pm:   

Not sure what kind of bus you have but I know from my Eagle that if you take the inner ceiling down to the frame, you will see that the steel frame ribs are just like firring strips running the whole length and through the width as well. I screwed 3/8 plywood to these, around the curved sides, and down the walls, after the insulation of course and was happy that whenever I had to secure ANYTHING to the ceiling or walls, I had a VERY good backing to do so!

Again, Just an opinion!
CoryDaneRTSIIIL (4.17.253.125)

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Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 12:05 am:   

Ace, He said in his first message he had an RTS, so the main beams are every 5 foot and the original ceiling was supported on both beams and on the light fixtures. The suupport frame work under, er, above the ceiling only supported the roof metal. There was slight extra support where there was a hatch in the roof, nothing else.

I kept the original air ducts and lighting so I am putting the original ceiling panel back up and then covering over them. I am adding some support where I need to attach to the ceiling otherwise, it is much like the original installation.

I don't think he will have much of a problem, the original panels were like 1/16" thick and were secure when installed. If he isnt adding anything to hang from it, it is good. Where ever he needed to hang something, a little extra support above the skin will work well.

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