| Author |
Message |
Tuck-04 (207.144.133.193)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 11:48 am: | |
I need info from you who have applied the ceramic thermal roof coating on you bus. I have the arcylic type with the beads in it. If this is the kind you used give me some info.
How did you prepare the roof. Mine is stripped to bare alum. Did you use a primer first and if so what type did you use (Name, etc).
I'm ready to apply some and can't get any good info on what type primer to use if any. So I'd like info from someone who has applied and on the outside top and if it is sticking ok to the roof.
I have spent to much money on paint stripper and hard work to screw up now.
Im not talking about the kool-seal roof coating this is arcylic with the ceramic beads in it.
Email me if you like.
No hurry I just need the info NOW!!!!!
Tuck-04
tuckerman@nu-z.net |
FAST FRED (67.75.110.27)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 1:08 pm: | |
I painted the roof with aircraft grade Zinc chromate , and then used a very thin coat of marine paint primer.
Then used the powder ceramic beads added to a couple of gal of very WHITE marine paint.
International Toplac is great ,( but $35 a quart), easily brushable , or as I did easy to roll on.
The ceramic beads have two downfalls.
They actually change the paint color from WHITE! to a bit more creamy (darker).
Also the surface has the texture of 200 sandpaper , so is a big dirt catcher , which reduces the WHITE even more.
Solution (I Hope!) is another thin coat of WHITE! over the layers of creamic paint.
Sure hope I dont have to strip it AGAIN to get rid of the dirt catching texture!
Stripping is easily done with a floor polisher and nasty scotchbrite pad.
15A Autobody grinder + scotchbrite for the less adventurous.
Beware close to the edges with the floor polisher , they get a mind of their own , and the foot traction isn't great on a smooth hunk of Alumunum.
With a fairly wet aplication a good enamel roller does a fine job.
FAST FRED |
Nelson Thomas, Knoxville (64.12.96.235)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 3:00 pm: | |
In preping my bus for spray foaming I painted the inside ribs of my bus with paint mixed with the ceramic beads to create a thermo-break. I tested the heat transfer between a treated section and an untreated section on a hot sunny day, there was no noticable difference. My guess is that the heat reflective value of the white paint on the outside roof and not the beads is what makes the real difference.
Nelson Thomas, Knoxville Tennessee |
gabby (67.30.116.197)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 4:13 pm: | |
I got my ceramic paint from Hank Spaletta. Phone # 707-433-9212. The cost was $408.00 but it included primer, water sealer, ceramic paint and a clear coat. I just scoffed the original paint with sand paper on this coach. On my other coaches I took them down to bare metal.
FF put a clear coat on yours and you will not have any more dirt problems. By the way the coach that I did in 1998 did not yellow and is just as white now as when I put it on |
Don KS/TX (65.141.167.11)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 6:41 pm: | |
I had great luck on several using the beaded stuff called Hydro Therm. I did test strips, including parts of the top of the bus, the difference was dramatic! I failed to make the test with just white paint, but the top of the bus was already white. Just under 100 bucks for 5 gal, which will do any bus roof.
The beads do make a creamy yellow color somewhat, and the surface is somewhat rough, but I never considered it to be a drawback. I would do my next one with it without question. Mixing your own is an option, but I was informed that it is just not possible to get the beads properly distributed thru the paint. |
Sam Sperbeck (206.230.105.249)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 8:30 pm: | |
Hi Tuck,
I used the Hydro Therm that Don KS/TX talks about on our 4106 roof that had been striped down to bare metal. The recomendation was to prime the steel front cap but apply the paint directly to the bare aluminum which I had sanded with 60 grit sandpaper and sandblasted around the rivets. It has only been on since Feb. but it seems to be sticking well. On a recent campout the outside temp was 88 and so was the inside with the bus setting in the sun, so I think the paint is doing what it was intended to do.
One side note, is be careful on that roof, I fractured a vertibrae in my back when I slid off the roof while sandblasting and it took 5 months to recover enough to do anything again. WORK SAFELY!
Thanks, Sam Sperbeck |
Don KS/TX (65.150.145.111)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 9:26 pm: | |
I forgot to add, they make two water based polyurethane coatings (clear) for the ceramic paint, it gives a gloss finish and keeps it from yellowing. I did not use it on my bus, the darkening was not really an issue. I intended to just recoat it every several years since that was so easy to do. (except maybe for Sam) |
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