| Author | Message | ||
| Peacemaker (67.74.195.138)
Rating: N/A |
Looking for the best way to cool a Scenicruiser. Lots of windows left in. Not wild about the looks of roofairs. Heard bad stuff about basement units. Need ideas and sources. Genset too. Larry | ||
| jmaxwell (66.42.92.25) Rating: N/A |
Pretty obvious that u have already decided that u don't want roof or basement air. That does not leave u with many options other than mini-splits or blocks of ice and open the windows and keep moving really fast down the road. | ||
| FAST FRED (67.75.113.91) Rating: N/A |
Every time I have seen a "problem" with a basement setup it was because the installer knew far more than Da Book , from the guys that built the units. In EVERY case there was a skimpy or NO return ducting. You can get away with crap instalations on heat because there is such a huge difference in temps 180 from the furnace , 60 in the coach. But as an air cond can only make air cold to 35deg or so (or the coils freeze solid from moisture in the air) the Delta T is much lower with 35 from the Air cond supply and 80 in the coach. Split units work fine , as the compressor noise is below where it should be , but the Cruise Air which is made for vehicles is expensive. I have no idea if the house stuff split systems will take the pounding from roads , or the very low voltages at many summer campsites. Kopeland makes great rotary compressors , why not "roll your own"? FAST FRED | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (65.73.229.118)
Rating: N/A |
Jeepers Fred, If a household unit would work through all the bumps and grinds of over the road use, life would be so simple. All we would need is a mobile home furnace with an "A" coil installed and there we have an instant heating and cooling plant in one neat box with the a/c compressor unit sitting where ever you want it. Now who is gonna try it???? Or has it been tried? Some say that the burners in the furnace won't take the road shock, but does anyone actually know? What if it was mounted or those mini airbags, would that work? I think I am heading for the Hitachi split system, looks the best bang for the buck or maybe a ducted roof air. Are the roof a/c units for ducted air different to the regular ones with the roof vents and controls? Anyone know? Peter. | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.69) Rating: N/A |
I'm seriously looking at mobile home unit that is one piece unit..only has ductwork comeing out , thinking about pluging that into the bus ductwork, it has 36,000 a/c & 100,000 heat & heats with propane... | ||
| David & Lorna Schinske (Davidschinske) (64.24.236.188)
Rating: N/A |
Hey Twodogs, if the unit is cheap enough, why don't you try it and let the rest of us know? You can be our Guinea pig! ;) Lorna | ||
| CoryDaneRTSIIIL (4.17.253.126) Rating: N/A |
Peacemaker If you are keeping most or all of the windows, how are you planning to keep the heat of the sun, or cool of the winter out?? Insulation blankets are an option, but they dont look the best while the cell type blinds actually have an "R" value. I think the triple cell blind had something like "5" R. I dont have the catalog which told the value but they are an attractive option for a bus that keeps the windows, especially if you hve the tinted windows that will attract the heat from the sun. As for AirConditioning, you are gonna find experimenting is expensive and if it does not work, it will cost you double. One option would be to keep the bus air, but cant use it at the park, Basements are possibility but on my bus, I dont want to give up that storage space. I went with the tried and true roof units, they dont look that bad and are real easy to replace when they wear out. The low profile units dont look that bad up there, besides you are building a motorhome, and a MH air con roof unit is not a bad or unusual site and roof mounts are the cheapest to purchase. Well, roll your own. "Imagine Your Dreams" cd | ||
| Jayjay (198.81.26.104) Rating: N/A |
I don't think a unit will "take a pounding" unless your coach rides a heck of a lot rougher than mine. I often wish I had tried a house type unit. (more cost effective than RV models) FF is right about the return air on RV central units, I like mine, but without proper ducting it wouldn't perform well on cool cycle when first installed. I have an RV Products Inc. central heat pump (Coleman) and it was 112F here in 'Vegas yesterday, and with an extra fan sitting on the floor to help circulate air a little better, it worked fine. (My insulation is not the best either) Most RV units can only maintain a 20deg. F drop across the coil, instead of the 30 to 35 on house types. If mine ever gives out, I'm going to use a house heat pump, since my GMC 4905 Buffalo rides better on the Interstates than most back yards do in California! I've just installed my third central heat pump system, so e-mail me offline for more info. Cheers...JJ jarjaje@wmconnect.com | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.122) Rating: N/A |
Lorna.. the unit I'm looking at is $1500.00 not bad for 36,000 a/c & 100,000 heat.. all I lack is 1500.00 got my John Deere tractor for sale..anybody need a "popin' johnny" | ||
| casual observer (207.109.1.73) Rating: N/A |
What model tractor? | ||
| jmaxwell (66.42.92.12) Rating: N/A |
The house furnace and A frame units have been done and so have the dual-pak house units. The big problem with both is size, and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that. With the dual-pak house unit, you have no bay area left for the beer after you stuff that in + the 220v genset to run it when u don't have 50 amp shore power to run it. With the furnace, unles u pop for a very high efficiency new unit, it will easily take the space of a household type frig. or closet, not to mention the height after u add an a-coil: talk about a roof raise. | ||
| Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa) (171.75.99.5)
Rating: N/A |
With the set up like Two Dogs is talking about you need room for a propane tank also. I'm giong with basement heat pump/air. Measures about 48" by18" by18'. Not much bigger than propane tank and about half the price that Two Dogs quoted Later,Ed. I've got a Plan | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.72) Rating: N/A |
It's a John Deere 620...good ol' tractor,I've had it for 20 years... I bought a 66 gallon propane tank,used to be in the back of a pick-up ($45) I think the self contained (moble home)a/c & heat is looking better all the time,I "think" it will fit in the area that bus air was in, the evaporator area (a/c radiator thingy) | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (216.67.207.29)
Rating: N/A |
The furnace in my house is horizintal and will take an "A" coil. Now the voltage thing may be a problem, haven't checked on 120vac units yet. Saw an all electric MCI for sale in Laughlin NV and it had a huge Duotherm unit which took up the whole front bay. All electric coach, not too good for boondocking, especially with neighbors. Peter. | ||
| Scott Whitney (66.82.9.31) Rating: N/A |
I intend to test an 8000BTU window A/C in my bus. I have a big space above the bedroom where the orginal bus A/C condensor was. It is not very usable space for anything else so I've decided to stick a window A/C in there. You'll never even see it from the outside as it will be under a large, vented, fiberglass shroud. Walmart, Lowes and Home Depot all have nice little 8000BTU jobbies with electronic controls for under $200. I know 8000 isn't much, but I only intend to use it to keep the bedroom cool on hot summer nights and use as little power as possible doing so. I have a large roof A/C in front which does reasonably well keeping the front half cool. I'll probably be able to report my results with the window unit in a couple of weeks. Scott BTW, I think roof airs look fine. How else can you differentiate a bus conversion from a tour bus when you pass one going the other direction on the highway?!? | ||
| Peter Aduskevich (Slowslowpete) (67.75.105.205)
Rating: N/A |
I have a Carrier mobile home cabinet air cond. . It exhausts thru the floor . Works good but since all the mechanics are inside the bus its noisy. Just completed converting a roof air to a basement air unit. Its noiser then I expected but much quieter then the mobile home unit.. Peter | ||
| Ross Carlisle (Ross) (66.238.216.130)
Rating: N/A |
"BTW, I think roof airs look fine. How else can you differentiate a bus conversion from a tour bus when you pass one going the other direction on the highway?!? " I agree....Also, the roof air does not take up any bay space. Anyone looking at full-timing or taking extended vacations in the bus would most likely appreciate all the bay space they can get. I know we all build our buses to our own personal tastes, but if you think you might ever sell your bus, it might be worth considering the needs of the average bus buyer. It could mean thousands in resale value down thee road. Ross | ||
| FAST FRED (67.75.111.145) Rating: N/A |
"BTW, I think roof airs look fine. How else can you differentiate a bus conversion from a tour bus when you pass one going the other direction on the highway?!? " Fine conversions are polished SS or Aluminum , and the tour charters are all paint with graffiti splashed all over. THEY look like today's Maximo cheapo RV ! A Conversion will have a rear window to actually see the countryside , a tour coach will have advertisements or more graffiti. "I agree....Also, the roof air does not take up any bay space. Anyone looking at full-timing or taking extended vacations in the bus would most likely appreciate all the bay space they can get." This is true but soo many folks toss the housey systems in the bays that not many coaches can BRAG "Empty Bays", as it takes loads more work & some compromises on tank capacity. Over 100FW and 100 Grey/black , does require waisting space in the bays , even tho thats enough water for a carefull couple to boondock for 2 WEEKS! Many basement systems and gen sets can be built into the space required y the old HVAC systems, at ZERO loss of bay space. "I know we all build our buses to our own personal tastes, but if you think you might ever sell your bus, it might be worth considering the needs of the average bus buyer. It could mean thousands in resale value down thee road." It could , but the mantra of customizing a coach is "My Way" and unless yours is a very bland "universal" style , there is no guarentee the market will be any larger. Yesterday it was Harvest Gold and Avacado, today its Washed Oak , but it still dates the comnversion. MY opinion is do it YOUR Way! as you only need ONE buyer , IF your conversion is specialized and can excell in a few areas , there WILL be a ready buyer. Not everyone wants a Heated Corrian Toilet Seat , cat house mirrors & twinky lights on the overhead , Not everyone wants the inside to resemble a functional transportation machine, But out there someone will be in love with the results , IF they actually work well , and you have the documentation , schematics , and everything needed to maintain the coach easily. FAST FRED | ||
| johnC (65.67.220.1)
Rating: N/A |
Roof airs are making a comeback on the high dollar coaches (million dollar plus). The reason- slideouts! When you start putting four slideouts on a coach, you almost have to go to roof airs due to ducting and air flow restraints. If your aversion to roof airs is strictly cosmetic, use low profile penquins and install a couple of boxed type awnings (Girard is one) along the top outer edge of the roof. jc | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.79) Rating: N/A |
talked to a/c man yesterday...heat pump does not work below 40 degrees...gets alot colder than that!!! | ||
| CoryDaneRTSIIIL (4.17.253.94) Rating: N/A |
Hey Dogs Heat pumps have lost the attraction here a long time ago. Most have just had a lot of failures from them, others a lot of bad luck on just the cooling side of them. The Heat Pump IS NOT the prefferred Heat/Cool system for buses. "Imagine Your Dreams" cd | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.72) Rating: N/A |
am seriously looking at the moblehome unit made by "comfortmaker"....base is 48x48....height is 30"....weight 400.....it is a 220 volt unit,and propane heat........36,000 a/c 75,000 heat....has a large supply duct & large return (aprox 12")everything in one box,no freon lines to hook up...just plug into ductwork,hook up elec. & propane | ||
| FAST FRED (67.75.110.75) Rating: N/A |
The problem as usual will be that most campgrounds don't have 50A of 240 , (although they advertise in the guides as 240V), Most are NOT in business to give $25 worth of electric for a $20 camping fee. And NO campground will allow you to run the noisemaker . So besides your back yard power plug , or the Scenic Truck Stop , with truck diesels running all night , where will you go camping?? FAST FRED | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.197)
Rating: N/A |
Dogs...pretty big foot print, UNLESS you have a Crown with trunk space with room for a double bed... I Have..  RCB | ||
| two dogs (67.30.23.36) Rating: N/A |
GOOD IDEA....I'll get a bus like yours to haul my hvac ,sewer pipe,and all the minor stuff | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.150)
Rating: N/A |
Awwww.......now, that's mean!  RCB |