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FAST FRED (67.75.110.87)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 10:32 am:   

Am looking for a site that tells how to analyze the results of an oil analysis from my boat 6-71.

The report came back that there was water in the oil but no glycoll.

A suprise as after 50 hours of operation , I would expect any water in the oil to have boiled off.

A guess would be that sitting 2 years unused in the damp put the water in , as a blown head gasket or oil cooler would allow the coolant , which has antifreez (glycoll) to show.

Any sugestions for a spot to read up on the subject?

Or posibalites for the "water " source??

FAST FRED
Scott Whitney (66.82.9.31)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 11:37 am:   

FF,

Try this site. Lots of info, pics, & even some slide presentations.

(they have their own lab)

http://www.butler-machinery.com/oil.html

That reminds me it is time to send out for another oil kit. . .

Scott
Greg Roberts (Gregeagle20) (66.7.134.190)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 1:54 pm:   

Hey Fred, Do you have sea water cooled exhaust manifolds? I owned a yacht that had a failure where the water exited into the exhaust manifold and allowed sea water to make it back to one exhaust valve and just a trace of water was in the oil. Of course the bigger problem was that the exhaust valve eventually stuck and caused that particular cyclinder to go dead. In restrospect though I was able to first see the problem with the oil analysis. Finding the leak was almost impossible until the valve stuck. Good luck!
FAST FRED (67.75.112.37)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 3:27 pm:   

NO the engine is set up Maineac style with dry exhaust and the cooling water goes thru pipes that are exterior to the hull & return .
Known as Keelcooling.

This allows the boat to be used in freezing weather with out worring about draining / winterizing the sea water side at the end of every run.

The only thought I'm having is that I get a bit of white smoke at higher RPM , but not under 1000rpm , that is probably?? an injector leaking back and giving poor combustion.

Couple that with my not getting to replace the 1944 thermostats with my new "Genuine DD" thermostats from China slave factory.

The engine runs up to 180F & then the thermostat opens & temps drop to 140 or 145 , and then slowly begins to climb back to 180.

Perhaps the low operating temp and the lousey injector add up to some water?

Still guessing, although the thought that the past owner may not have been religous about caping the dry exhayst has crossed my mind too.

FAST FRED
two dogs (67.30.23.55)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 6:29 pm:   

if you are looking for anti-freeze in the oil...look for "potasium" not glycol
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (64.114.233.99)

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Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 10:33 pm:   

Fast Fred, do you think that the bleed hole in your thermostats is blocked? It's necessary to stabilize the thermostats, because they need a small flow to prevent oscillations of the kind that you describe.

Also, there is need for a vent from the top of the thermostat housing to the expansion tank to get rid of any gas bubbles that might cause a gas pocket at the thermostats. This is a small tube, maybe a quarter inch or so.

I think that the oil temperature needs to stay over 160 to reliably evaporate condensates from the oil, including water. Water is a byproduct of any hydrocarbon combustion, so there will always be a small amount getting into the crankcase.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
FAST FRED (67.75.110.83)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 5:55 am:   

Well thats Good! news the potassium is 0.

Tom, I will check for the bleed like when I open up the cooling circuit.

Need to add a "box heater" as well as plumb the line for the engine to heat the Fresh water while underway, as well as replace the thermostats.

Columbus (departure) day is coming on fast & we don't even have running water yet!

Interesting hassle ,
tried to do a first class job of fresh water (MY WAY) which to me is 5/8 soft refrigeration tubing with flairs.

Flair hardware seems to be missing from inventory at the local HD , plumbing supply's etc.

So had to settle for 5/8 compression fittings.
With over 100 items in the parts count , I hope I'm not chasing leaks for a week!!!

FAST FRED
Jim Wilke (12.46.52.74)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 2:29 pm:   

Fred, I think the reason your temp gauge swings so wildly is that the keel cooler is probably well oversized. The coolant gets VERY cold in that Maine water & due to the size of the cooler it will never get warm. The old thermostats may be a bit unresponsive allowing bigger fluctuations than new 'stats.

BTW, what is the configuration of the cooling system that uses more than one thermostat for a 6-71? The right hand one in a 4104 is normally open & bypasses coolant. It closes as the engine warms up while at the same time, the left one is normally closed & opens as the engine heats up to let coolant into the radiator. But that system is no longer used & the N.O. stat is no longer available.
Jim-Bob
Doug Dickinson (Dougd470) (24.207.251.176)

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Posted on Sunday, August 10, 2003 - 5:15 pm:   

FF

I don't proclaim to be a diesel expert by a long shot - but I will pass along some experience.

A company I worked for used diesel for gen sets at remote communications sites which were cycled every week for 2 hours under load. They were also used for days at a time once a year when the regular snow or ice storm would knock out power for a while.

Our diesels ran at about 140-160 degrees and we had water condensate in the oil - not much but then it doesn't take much to trash a diesel. We did loose one but I can't say for sure the condensate was the problem (also why I will NEVER buy another ONAN if it is the last gen set on earth - long story). We had to use a higher temp thermostat to keep the units running at 180 degrees water temp and no more condensate problems.

FWIW. Good luck on the old diesels. Proves they are long lasting workhorses, doesn't it!

Doug
St Louis MC9

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