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two dogs (67.30.23.89)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 9:24 pm:   

I know nothing about l.e.d. bulbs ,except they are supposed to be brighter & cooler & use less electricity...I was thinking about putting them on my Eagle,but my bulbs are 1156....I have four running(taillight) lights (w/2bulbs ea.)&two turn signal (w/2bulbs ea) that's 12 bulbs,has anybody done a Eagle? I'd kinda be happy with nice bright turn signals,are they expencive,I see them advertised in "Street Rod"....but no prices
ED-NJ (67.85.224.113)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 9:29 pm:   

http://www.buytruckstuff.com/ledlights.htm
.. Maybe this will help.
Buswarrior (Buswarrior) (64.229.209.247)

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Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 11:59 pm:   

Grote and Trucklite are two vendors that have a large selection:

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?storeId=10001&langId=-1&pageName=/home.jsp

http://www.grote.com/

If you have the cash, I'd support a move to LED.

Beware that your dash indicator light for the brake lights applying may stop working due to the low power draw. The LED's appear to be a blown bulb, if your coach is equipped with the bulb working confirmation circuit. MC8 stops working with LED Stoplamps, as do GM's. There is a small electronic fix, but I haven't found out what it is yet.

Any volunteers?

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Gary Stadler (Boogiethecat) (68.7.217.217)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 1:50 am:   

The "electronic fix" would be to put a resistor (actually a power resistor) across the circuit to the now=LED flashers, that draws the same amount of current that the old light bulbs used to. This will keep the flasher working fine. The funny part is that in this case, you're still using as much power as you used to but turning it into heat with the resistor instead of light. Well, no biggie ether way because saving a few watts on a bus is kinda meaningless...

My solution is to use LED's everywhere but the front turn clicker lights, and leave them as regular incandescent lamps. That way you get the reliability of LED's on the sides and rear where it counts, and the front blinker lamps keep the flasher happy. Best of both worlds....

Cheers
Gary
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (65.73.112.69)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 3:03 am:   

I found an electronic flasher relay on Ebay a while back which is supposed to flash any bulbs, LED or tungsten and any number of them as it is just an electronic timer.

Wasn't too expensive either.

Peter.
Derek (24.66.241.23)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 3:44 am:   

Craig Shep(p?)ard did a bunch of LED's, and put a very detailed report on his website:

http://bus.gumpydog.com
Stan (216.95.238.99)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 8:48 am:   

The brake indicator light on the dash of an MCI is operated by a current relay. A current relay uses heavy wire for the coil and the load is drawn through the coil winding instead of the contacts. I know that the relay can be adjusted when changing voltage (24 to 12) on the brake lights but you might have to replace the relay with one rated for the LED current draw. When adjusted properly, the relay will energize when both brake lights are working but not when one is not working.
Many trucks use a motor driven flasher that is quite cheap and doesn't care how many lights are in the circuit and they seem to last forever.
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (24.196.191.70)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 9:49 am:   

Several years ago, I purchased a motor driven flasher. It would run with one or 20 bulbs connected. A very small motor inside the regular sized can for the flasher. I do not know if it is still available or not. Has worked for me for several years now.
Richard
RJ Long (Rjlong) (24.127.74.29)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 10:18 am:   

Richard -

Was the flasher made by Warner?

If it's easily accessible, could you possibly take a look and see if there are any markings on it that a NAPA guy could use?

Thanks,

RJ
PD4106-2784
Fresno CA
Paul Tillmann (Paultillmann) (24.105.207.202)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 11:12 am:   

You could also try:

www.strobes-r-us.com
Stan (216.95.238.104)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 5:22 pm:   

When I bought motor driven flashers, I got them from a United Delco dealer. They were standard equipment on Ford 9000 trucks.
They are a cube about 1 1/4" on a side. I think MCI uses a two wire flasher and the motor driven flasher is also two wire but you have to move one wire on the plug to match up with the terminal. This is all from memory which is getting rapidly shorter so don't shoot me if I am wrong.
Ross Carlisle (Ross) (66.238.216.59)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 6:38 pm:   

Does anyone make 24V direct replacements for buses? I'd like to do the stop, running and turn lights in LED, but only if I can find something that's a bolt in replacement. To many other projects to go redesigning lights that alraedy work.

Thanks...Ross
Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (24.196.191.70)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 9:44 pm:   

RJ, Bus is presently in storage and I can not get to it. Sorry.
Richard
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (65.37.91.71)

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Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 - 11:21 pm:   

I just dug out that flasher I bought on Ebay and it is a:

Trucklite Ultraflash II. Part #97201

Read about the latest models here:

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=23774&langId=-1

Works on 12 or 24 volts rated for a max of 17 amps per channel or 8, 32 cp bulbs. Available with or without audible warning too.

Operates LED or incandescent lamps, 5 year warranty, built-in short circuit/overload protection.

Tech assistance: 800-995-1155.

Hope this helps someone out with the problems of flashing LEDs.

Peter.

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