| Author | Message | ||
| Russell Beam (Rcbeam)
Registered Member Username: Rcbeam Post Number: 36 Registered: 11-2009 Posted From: 74.131.50.239  Rating: |
I posted about this months ago. I measured the slop at the steering wheel and it's about 6-7 inches. It is really DIFFICULT for me to drive like this and makes for much more of a chore than a joy. This is after having the steering checked out and some radius rod bushing replaced. Was planning on a trip from KY to Kansas to Sam Caylor's to have him refit my MC8 with a used integral steering gear from one of his donor buses. However, I have had to tear out most of the inside to replace AC wiring so she is basically a metal tent. The trip to Kansas would be roughly 11 hours or so each way. Weather is turning colder, cost money to just go to/fro Kansas, blah, blah, blah. I don't feel anyone in my area is capable of doing the work and has the parts. However, do any of you guys know of any good shops that can do that work and have donor parts that are closer to KY than Kansas? Thought about Luke, but he's just about as far away, and the guy I talked to there said they had never done that before. Also, I am not capable of doing it myself. Any opinions or thoughts? I've tried to learn to drive it like this, relaxed, etc, but good integral steering would just make all of the difference in the world. Thanks again for any words of wisdom. | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 159 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.195.191.2 Rating: N/A |
Russ give me a call, it's in my profile. Thanks ralph | ||
| Bill Holstein (Billmoocow)
Registered Member Username: Billmoocow Post Number: 131 Registered: 5-2009 Posted From: 71.59.162.64  Rating: N/A |
Try 30wt oil. It does wonders not wanders. | ||
| George M. Todd (George_todd)
Registered Member Username: George_todd Post Number: 1133 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 99.180.11.80 Rating: N/A |
Russ, As I remember the last advice I gave you, the original steering worked well for many years. The manufacturers couldn't have sold a bus that wanders, nobody would have bought it after a test drive. So, look at the steering box while somebody moves the steering wheel to both ends of the slack space. You can see what does and doesn't move, which will show what is worn. If the steering wheel moves 7" and the arm on the bottom of the box doesn't move, the box is worn/out of adjustment. If the arm moves as soon as the wheel is turned, and the tie rod doesn't move, then the ball joint is the gremlin. It could also be the tie rod ends, or the king pin bushings, but my bet is on the steering box itself. The preload adjustment is either a straight screw slot, or an allen, locked in place with a large nut. Loosen the nut about a turn, then tighten the screw as much as it tightens easily. It may be hard to start, but then may well turn clockwise several turns before resistance is felt. At that point, stop tightening, and hold the slot with the screwdriver, while tightening the lock nut. If the adjustment is totally bottomed out, the screw just won't tighten any more. If you over-tighten, and put in too much pre-load, the wheel will be hard to turn, if so, loosen up, and back off about half a turn. If you're uncomfortable with doing this, take the bus to a truck alignment shop, and tell them you want the pre-load set, and you want to watch. Heck of a lot cheaper than having integral steeering installed. HTH, G | ||
| Buswarrior (Buswarrior)
Registered Member Username: Buswarrior Post Number: 1941 Registered: 12-2000 Posted From: 174.91.147.42  Rating: N/A |
Worn out integral steering is no different than what you've got now: worn out steering. All the raves about the change to integral have more to do with replacing worn with newer, than style of application. Ever wonder what they might have thought if they freshened up what they had? Lots of work, lots of $$$ for what gain? MC8 turns like a battleship no matter which steering is in it. happy coaching! buswarrior | ||
| Russell Beam (Rcbeam)
Registered Member Username: Rcbeam Post Number: 37 Registered: 11-2009 Posted From: 72.250.169.58 Rating: N/A |
I had the steering inspected at the local major truck tire/suspension/alignment center months ago. I had them replace some radius rod bushings which helped some. At first they said there was nothing wrong with the steering... Jeez. I told him to look at it again. I could barely keep it in a lane. He comes back a week later and said everything was good except the box was worn out. At this point I don't trust the work of those guys so I paid them and picked up the bus. Now, I don't care if it's power assist with a slave cylinder or integral I just want it to work and be right. I will follow Georges instructions and see if I can tell myself which part/parts are bad and adjust the box if necessary/possible. I read the book, but have a hard time following some of that, but George's instructions made much more sense. Ralph offered his phone number and I'll talk to him this evening to see what he can add. If I have to replace the box it doesn't make much sense to me to go back with original and I wasn't sure how easy it is to find a reman MC8 box. However, money is tight so I need to make the right decision here. Don't really want to drive to Kansas and back and spend $2k if I don't have to. That could go towards a battery bank and genset and interior wiring. You guys are the best. Where would we all be without each other? I'll keep you posted on how this goes. | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905)
Registered Member Username: Chessie4905 Post Number: 2000 Registered: 10-2003 Posted From: 71.58.71.157  Rating: N/A |
I'm not sure if the steering setup in your coach is the same as the GMC's or not. They have a small drive shaft that connects the steering box to the angle gears. Is yours like that? Like above, you need to have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth in the left and right extremes of the play in the wheel while watching all the steering connections, one at the time to look for lost motion or play. can be a little in several points or a lot in one. With the miles on these coaches, you can expect wear to occur, even in well maintained ones. The steering box can be expected to have wear, hopefully most which can be adjusted out.If the box needs rebuilding because of non adjustable wear, now would be the time to convert it to power instead of putting the money into the one you have. If and when you go to power, go to the integral; much better setup and ones that say assist is just as good, are usually the ones that have it instead of integral. Keep in mind that parts needed to convert might be easier to obtain sooner than later. A good tight manual steering setup is not bad in normal driving, but sucks when you have to jockey the coach around in confined area. I've had both types btw. One last thing, the steering caster setting will effect the tendency of the coach to wander going down the road. However it is a trade off. Positive caster, easy steering and more tendency to wander. Negative caster, stiffer steering and less or no wander. Power steering will eliminate most of the stiffer steering. You would think it would eliminate it all but it doesn't completely. After you get your play taken care of, have your caster checked. It may be set too positive (for manual steering), causing some of the wander problem. | ||
| Dallas Farnworth (Dallas)
Registered Member Username: Dallas Post Number: 136 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 75.91.207.143  Rating: N/A |
Russell, Check out Kirk's automotive for just about anything on a bus or a truck that need's rebuilding. http://kirksauto.com/index.php?page=transit-bus-highway-coach Even though they don't list it, call the guy's up there. they can fix darn near anything, they have lot's of balin' wire, bubble gum and duct tape! | ||
| ned sanders (Uncle_ned)
Registered Member Username: Uncle_ned Post Number: 95 Registered: 5-2005 Posted From: 74.235.131.105 Rating: |
Russell; Call Gene Russel at Russels Diesel. He is in western NC. He has intergral power steering on a silver sides. I bet he will fis you up and he is a lot closer than kansas. Will keep the name in the same family uncle ned | ||
| larry currier (Larryc)
Registered Member Username: Larryc Post Number: 338 Registered: 2-2007 Posted From: 207.200.116.13 Rating: N/A |
I'm with the shop that said the box is worn out. Pull the steeering box and rebuild it. Parts are cheap and its not a big job once it's on the ground. Any shop/basic mechanic should be able to put some new bushings in the box for you, it's pretty simple. Once that's done, I'm real fond of using chassis grease in my manual steering boxes, moisture can't get in and they won't freeze in 60 below. From a safety angle, that is a lot of play. You should have someone run the steering wheel back and forth, getting hard into both sides of the gear and watch from underneath. Look at the box mounts to be sure the steering box is firmly attached and not breaking or falling off the unit. Inspect each rod end for movement and tightness and replace or tighten anything that is not right. | ||
| Gus Causbie (Gusc)
Registered Member Username: Gusc Post Number: 1225 Registered: 11-2005 Posted From: 75.121.202.13  Rating: N/A |
GM steering boxes have an adjustment which is intended to compensate for center steering position wear. It is a simple adjustment and fairly easy to make once you are under the bus. I can only assume MCI has the same system so try this first. Your manual should cover the adjustment. | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 8 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
I also have an mci-8 and the bus wanders and is hard to keep straight. I believe the steering has red fluid and not the required oil. I want to drain the system and refill with motor oil per the factory manual. What is the best/easiest way to drain the power steering system? ps. it is the factory steering system. |
