| Author | Message | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
I'm starting to plan for the time I will be adding 2 roof airs and need some information. 1. Does anyone have clear pictures on how to cut and mount the roof airs on a MCI-8 or similar model? 2. Does the wiring run on the inside or what are the options to do this? 3. Where do these untis usually drain to? 4. any other info would be great. | ||
| Jim Wallin (Powderseeker01)
Registered Member Username: Powderseeker01 Post Number: 107 Registered: 10-2008 Posted From: 70.90.115.49  Rating: N/A |
They fit in a standard 14" vent hole, so you just need to avoid the ribs. The wiring should be run on the inside. Mine drains outside and runs down the roof. It took me about 45 minutes to install mine, not including running the wiring. | ||
| Ralph Peters (Ralph7)
Registered Member Username: Ralph7 Post Number: 178 Registered: 3-2004 Posted From: 75.214.225.6 Rating: N/A |
Also have 2 or 3 strong, willing helpers, I used 2x4's with a 14x14 hole (box) flat 4in. to reinforce/spacedown for inside cealing...... AC's are set on the supplied sealing gasket, AND held in place from inside with 3 long bolts, so you need wide a solid spacer all the around the hole. My spacer is in all my 14x14 openings (3). You need good wood also to attach interior trim on roof fans. I used 1/4in bolts an counter sunk the bolts inside. Most off set AC's& fans to the left of the center front to rear main roof rib. BEFORE any cuts KONW exactly where your walls are/will beeee, I was lucky. ?????'s Give me a call check my profile. | ||
| Cory hart (Chart1)
Registered Member Username: Chart1 Post Number: 49 Registered: 1-2010 Posted From: 66.168.53.106  Rating: N/A |
I have an Mci8 I have my rear ac out now so I can take a picture for you but not until after Next week when I get home. Send me an email mcitourbus@aol.com | ||
| FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
Registered Member Username: Fast_fred Post Number: 1430 Registered: 10-2006 Posted From: 69.19.14.34  Rating: N/A |
"Carbunkles ", A roof top air cond unit is about 125 lbs , while just chopping a hole might work, when the bus is driven pot holes can make the unit 3X as heavy,welding in some reinforcing is usually recommended. FF | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
Thanks so far for the info...waiting on pictures since i'm more of a visual learner...keep it coming...THANKS! | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1014 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.43.204 Rating: N/A |
Some roof tops do alright on a slope some don't like the Carrier check the mfg before installing on a slope may not be all that simple good luck | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1015 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.43.204 Rating: N/A |
Some roof tops do alright on a slope some don't like the Carrier check the mfg before installing on a slope may not be all that simple all need support good luck | ||
| Dal Farnworth (Dallas)
Registered Member Username: Dallas Post Number: 302 Registered: 7-2004 Posted From: 98.20.57.250  Rating: N/A |
That's interesting Clifford, I am having a problem with my Roofwart, and it is tilted about 6° to the starboard side. With the others, it's amazing that I see Carrier, Coleman, Penguin and others mounted forward and bass-acwards on the slant of many fifth-wheels. Is the tilt to one side or the other that important? How about when the "Happy Camper" bumper pull stops at a local mom and pop Truckstop for the night, He's got one side in a big pothole and the other side on a high spot.... Those unit's still work. I'm not denying you have a point, since mine is having a problem, (it stops about every 2 hours with a circuit overload), but seeing these units that work in the off kilter modes I've seen, leads me to believe I might be doing something wrong. | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1016 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.43.204 Rating: N/A |
Dallas, Carrier gives you very little tilt or angle to work with they use the water to help cool the unit that is why you never see water running down the side of a RV from a Carrier they are equipped with a water slinger on the fan, to bad they quit the RV market one fine unit they made,even RVP (Cloeman) tells you they must be mounted as close to level as they can be side to side front to back good luck (Message edited by luvrbus on January 20, 2011) | ||
| Brian Elfert (Belfert)
Registered Member Username: Belfert Post Number: 92 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 209.98.146.235 Rating: N/A |
I still get plenty of water from my Carrier rooftops. Mine are mounted nice and level. I would probably get more water from another brand. I don't know for sure. | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
I just came across this as a possibility for a.c. and price VERY nice! http://www.ac-world.com/Portable.php What do you think? | ||
| Luvrbus (Luvrbus)
Registered Member Username: Luvrbus Post Number: 1017 Registered: 8-2006 Posted From: 74.33.43.204 Rating: N/A |
Brian, when is the last time you cleaned your units ? you do that once a year good luck | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 671 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 98.233.187.50  Rating: N/A |
Jerry, interesting components. Less than 10A current draw, 75 pounds, 12/17/29" is reasonably small. 12K BTU isn't a blizzard of arctic blast but if it genuinely makes that* and has good air circulation, then those units might be attractive. (*I'm going to guess that provision of air flow for the "condenser" function and other details of installation could make a big difference.) | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 6 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
Well I did a search on ebay and found quite a few models/sizes/prices that can drain into a built in tank or run a drain hose down into the baggage compartment and then down through the bottom of the bus...exhuast can also run this way. I will be buying a couple of these very soon! | ||
| Sean Welsh (Sean)
Registered Member Username: Sean Post Number: 1233 Registered: 1-2003 Posted From: 67.142.130.27  Rating: N/A |
Brian, do you have the low profile model? Those don't have the system Clifford talked about that blows the evaporator condensate into the condenser coils.
These sorts of units are not really suitable for bus conversions. For one thing, you'll need to cut a hole in the side of the rig for the condenser exhaust. For another, these catch the evaporator condensate in a cup or bin inside the unit, and that condensate will spill all over the place when the bus is in motion. Also, unless there is a provision for a plumbed drain, you'll have to empty the little cup constantly. Lastly, and this is the real kicker, the efficiency of this style of unit is compromised by its condenser arrangement. Unlike an RV package unit, whether roof or basement, or a split system, all of which get their condenser air from outside, these units take their condenser air from inside, then dump it overboard. Inevitably, that air must be replaced inside the bus, and it will be replaced by hot outside air sucked in through every possible leak in the body. You'll be using some of that nice conditioned air for the condenser instead of yourself.
I would advise against running condenser exhaust out the bottom of the coach. Hot air rises -- you really want the condenser exhaust to exit the coach as high as possible. If you run it out the bottom that hot air will eventually just find its way back inside the coach, diminishing the efficiency of the system. -Sean http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com | ||
| Nellie Wilson (Vivianellie)
Registered Member Username: Vivianellie Post Number: 489 Registered: 11-2008 Posted From: 66.87.7.14  Rating: N/A |
Jerry - I started out with one of those units and it was a real life-saver during a hot Virginia summer! Not only cooled the bus but worked great as a de-humidifier. But heed Sean's caution about the water pan; you don't want water sloshing all over the place. Still, I only had to empty mine once per week... and I was stuck in extreme humidity - a bamboo grove! (Don't ask why  ). As for ventiing, I stuck the exhaust hose out the driver's window - worked just fine. Cons: It couldn't keep up with a South Florida summer. Maybe if I'd been parked in shade, but no such luck. (Ended up trading for a 'take-off' Carrier roof air). It takes up considerable space; I kept mine on the driver's seat (only used it when parked). When traveling, I rolled it into the shower (Ralph P. - bless his sweet heart - blessed me with a gigntic shower!). My take? I'd say get it... unless you're spending time in extremely hot places. Even so, it would make a good back-up or auxiliary A/C. I've often wished I had the room to have kept mine. But I guess there's always trade-offs with a bus... Hope this helps. Nellie | ||
| Bruce Henderson (Oonrahnjay)
Registered Member Username: Oonrahnjay Post Number: 672 Registered: 8-2004 Posted From: 98.233.187.50 Rating: N/A |
Sean wrote "Lastly, and this is the real kicker, the efficiency of this style of unit is compromised by its condenser arrangement. Unlike an RV package unit, whether roof or basement, or a split system, all of which get their condenser air from outside, these units take their condenser air from inside, then dump it overboard. Inevitably, that air must be replaced inside the bus, and it will be replaced by hot outside air sucked in through every possible leak in the body. You'll be using some of that nice conditioned air for the condenser instead of yourself." Although I have no experience with these units, that's close to what I was thinking when I mentioned "condenser performance". In fact, I was thinking that the only way to get one of these to give you close to the "specified" BTU would be to have a dedicated condenser air supply from the outside (a sufficient quantity of moving air, preferably as cool as possible) and good exhaust setup. Without this, you're wasting the cooling cycle, as Sean mentioned. And I'm not even sure it there's internal ducting etc. that's set up so that you could fabricate a useful condenser cooling intake. It's good that Nell was able to get good use from one when parked, but it sure looks as if it's not going to be much use as a permanently installed unit. | ||
| jerry garrido (Uemjg)
Registered Member Username: Uemjg Post Number: 7 Registered: 10-2010 Posted From: 69.155.135.110 Rating: N/A |
Well my intention for these portable units, and again I stress MY use, is that the bus is used mostly for a "day" coach and mostly for the weekends. Most of the units that I've looked at have the option to drain via a tube or internally into a "bucket". I plan to experiment with a couple of these in the texas heat and if they don't work well then plan "b" will be to go to the roof top units. In terms of space I will have plenty since I will only have futons and wall mounted flat screens for entertainment... | ||
| Randy Davidson (Rdavidson)
Registered Member Username: Rdavidson Post Number: 31 Registered: 7-2006 Posted From: 74.211.27.142 Rating: N/A |
Since this thread started with the mention of a 14" hole in the roof I'd like to remind you that REALLY the hole must be slightly larger. That is, the bolts that come down from the unit to tie it to the roof may be 14-1/4" apart and so the hole better be 14-1/4" square or maybe larger. Be sure to read the installation instructions BEFORE you cut and build and support the roof hole. |