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Michael J Ryan (Mjryan) (68.124.71.128)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 1:06 pm:   

Need some ideas; I would like to use sheetrock in my conversion. First install 1/4” plywood than 3/8” sheetrock or maybe the other way around 3/8” plywood than 1/4" sheetrock. What are the shortcomings or pitfalls of this technique? I know to reinforce areas were cabinets and walls will be attached.
Michael
DaveD (142.46.199.18)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 1:49 pm:   

Sheetrock is not, in my mind a very suitable material for a coach conversion. It is heavy, susceptible to damage from motion of the vehicle and may be a breeding place for mould in a coach where there can be limited ventilation and high humidity. There are plenty of other materials that are much lighter, stronger and easy to work with. If installed properly these materials can have an interior finish applied that is equal in appearance or better than any sheetrock wall.

FWIW

Dave Dulmage
(MC-8)
jmaxwell (66.81.46.80)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 4:04 pm:   

Not a good material in a conversion, for all the reasons that Dave mentioned. I know someone that tried it and tore it out before he even completed installing it after a test drive around town. He went with textured plywood.
Gary McFarland (Gearheadgary) (12.231.173.242)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 5:49 pm:   

i have seen some Drywall-like panels that had a vinyl covering. I had no interest, so I know no more, but I think they were made from the same material as acoustic tile, and Vinyl-Covered.

Good luck,

Gary
jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 6:50 pm:   

5/8" "fire-code" sheetrock is vinyl covered for a pre-finished look.... it uses hat channels and t-channels to butt up seams....liquid nails holds it to wall studs.... good in a metal building, but don't know about a mobile application
john wood (209.137.231.112)

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Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 10:37 pm:   

Drywall is heavy, does not take to movement very well as it will crack. It is not a structural member and being made with a paper surface is prone to mold. I don't even like it in my home.

Use thin plyboard and cover with wall paper underlayment, then paint with latex if you desire the look of drywall.

jw
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.219.191)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 4:39 am:   

Has anyone tried using that white fiberglass 4' x 8' sheeting that Home Depot and Lowes sell? It has a sorta bubbly textured finish and we were considering it for the ceiling.

I would expect to have to pre-drill the holes to stop cracking or maybe it's not necessary?

Since we were going to use 5/16" ply over the foam insulation, I considered sticking this fiberglass to the ply before installing it but I do have a slight curve in the roof and may end up sticking it up after the ply is in place. Maybe it would stay up with just the glue and without additional screws?

Any thoughts?

Merry Christmas all.

Peter & Yvonne.
DonTX/KS (66.82.9.12)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 5:30 am:   

I used some of that stuff in the bathroom and a few other areas that would tend to see abuse or moisture. It worked exceptionally well glued to 1/4 inch luan plywood. Easy to clean, retained its new shiny look for years.
We used the luan on all the walls, and did as John suggested above, but then wall papered the coach. Looked very fine.
pete (205.188.209.8)

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Posted on Wednesday, December 24, 2003 - 9:20 am:   

Weight is an issue if your going to go tooling around the US...
Drywall...i cant imagine the mess it would make when going over dips and bumps...
i used beaded toung and groove pine stained mahagony..a creak here and there but no movement..durable yet replaceable and workable if i want to change something..
im a contractor by trade..i have houses that cant even take drywall let alone a bus..lol

scrap the drywall idea...you'll thank us later
john wood (209.137.231.85)

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Posted on Thursday, December 25, 2003 - 11:33 pm:   

Peter;

The white 4x8 sheets are a plastic material used for shower stalls and in commercial wet rooms, like kitchens and such. Product is great for those areas in small amounts. My problem with it for general application is the fact that it is a "hard" acoustic material and will make road noises sound like the holland tunnel inside the coach if not used judiciously.

The other negative is the inability to use paint on this stuff. Like painting a soda bottle, so you better LOVE white pebble finish.

jw
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.219.191)

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Posted on Friday, December 26, 2003 - 12:22 am:   

Don,

What did you stick it up with?

John,

Would it make that much noise if it was stuck to a sheet of plywood? Surely it would be no more noisey that the fibreglass ceiling in my Apollo?

Peter.
DonTX/KS (66.82.9.11)

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Posted on Friday, December 26, 2003 - 12:20 pm:   

I just used a construction adhesive.
Michael J Ryan (Mjryan) (68.124.71.128)

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Posted on Saturday, December 27, 2003 - 3:36 pm:   

Thanks all for the input. I'll leave the sheetrock on the shelf at HD
Michael

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