| Author | Message | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.211)
Rating: N/A |
We installed a Force 10, 11 gallon water heater with a heat exchanger , down stream ( 6 inches or so) from a 40,000 BTU Coach heater, located amidships. The 3/4 inch coolant line is plumbed to both via a "t", with the coolant from the engine coming in on the bottom leg, the heater on the middle leg, and the water heater/ exchanger plumbed to the top leg. The coolant must rise about two inches above the middle leg to an elbow for a short trip to the exchanger. It seems the coolant makes it's way thru the heater, but I am not sure how much is going to the heat exchanger. Wonder if there is a 12 volt circulating pump that will handle the hot coolant, and if that will make a difference in the way things work? The water heater has a built in temperature shut off valve, in case the W/H gets to 150 degrees. That is the reason for the loop in the feed line. Any ideas, including specific product or method of dealing with would be appreciated. As yet I have not put water in the heater and have no real way of testing what is going on "in there".  Thanx....and a very Merry Christmas to all. Remember the reason for the season...... RCB '64 Crown HWC | ||
| Timnvt (64.91.163.102)
Rating: N/A |
If the water is circulating through the exchanger, you should be able to feel the temperature of the pipes both going in and out of the exchanger. On startup, the temp going in should feel hotter then the temp on the return side. Then, since you currently have no water in the tank to absorb the heat, the return line should get just as hot as the feed side real quick. You will know it is working when you don't want to be hanging onto the pipes any longer. There is such a plumbing fitting called a monoflow tee which basically diverts or scoops the flow inside the tee so both branches get an even distribution. You might have to re-plumb your pipes to install one as the feed side (which you have coming from your 40,000btu coach heater) of the monoflow has to be at one end rather than the middle as you now have it. Another option, though maybe not as cheap, would be to install an electrically operated zone valve to actually shut of the flow going to the engine. Basically that makes your water heater a priority zone getting all the available heat when the water heater thermostat calls for heat. You have asked about a circulator pump. Does your 40,000 btu heater have a circulator built in or are you relying on gravity feed to circulate the heated water? By the way, what brand of heater did you install? Tim. | ||
| Peter Aduskevich (Slowslowpete) (67.75.113.22)
Rating: N/A |
I have a pump on my heat system . Only have I" feed to one heater . I installed a booster pump that they use in school buses in the North East. They must work because when the school bus drivers complain about not enough heat they change the pump. It seems that the only ones I saw are for 1" hose. They cost about $150. Peter | ||
| Adame (129.82.53.127) Rating: N/A |
March makes a 12vdc pump rated for I think 180F. Another company is El-Sid. Both offer a magnet drive impeller. | ||
| FAST FRED (65.154.176.242) Rating: N/A |
Pumps were used in many GM coaches , in about 1 inch size for good volume of flow. Scrap yard near? Probably in any bus , so might be worth a call. The water will flow where there is least restance so many hookups use a series setup. Nicest is a valve so the air heater can be bypassed in summer. A new heater controll valve for a GM is a Y with place for a Bowden cable to controll, only $13.00 last one I bought. The water pump will be $150 to $200 for good volume Quality cont. duty rated. A delightfull feature is at times after the engine is off , you can recover enough heat from the block with the system to heat during mild weather. Beware many box heaters are not designed with great silent fans , so the heat could be more noisy than a furnace. If the box heater pulls in outside air you have the choice of ventilating with or without heat. Works for me! FAST FRED | ||
| R.C.Bishop (128.123.221.217)
Rating: N/A |
Thanx for the input. I like the salvage yard idea... :>) like my sweet wife says, " if Wal-Mart (or in my case the junk yard) doesn't have it....I don't need it" We have two 40,000 BTU Bergstrom units that heat the mid and rear part of the coach. They were OE and have been well taken care of. Both rodded and overhauled just prior to our purchase. Nice heaters and really put it out. Both have (2) two speed motors and lots of air flow. The motors are OE also, but they are playing little tricks from time to time, so I would guess the permanent magnet is wearing out. But then, 40 years is not too bad a life span. (1964) With an upcoming trip to Dallas in late January, we should be able to tell what needs to be done. The temperature going into and coming out of the heat exchanger is not as hot as what goes into and out of the heater...therefore my question above. I think I like the monoflow tee idea. Might just give it a try before spending more bucks. Thanx. RCB '64 Crown HWC |