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TVDAD (24.128.84.173)

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Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 4:34 pm:   

1990 Neoplan Cityliner 8v92 engine starts right up, idle and high idle are fine. When I put it in gear no poower won't rev. The DDEC reader say the injectors are long time. When I run the indiviual test it show that the right side are at 80 ms the left side is at 1.20 ms whats wrong. The fuel is good and stableized the fuel pressure is at 80 PSI. Whats wrong?????
TWO DOGS (158.254.224.243)

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Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 6:01 pm:   

might be wrong...but...check the mousetrap
Bill K. (209.86.76.246)

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Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 8:48 pm:   

Hey two dogs if it has a turbo it should not have a mouse trap. but maybe something is pluging the air system, I would ck that.
Bob Gallo (65.69.64.7)

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Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 9:18 pm:   

We had found clogged particulate traps (catalytic mufflers) on some busses from that era. It will cause similar problems.
Ed Jewett (Kristinsgrandpa) (67.29.205.61)

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Posted on Sunday, January 04, 2004 - 9:31 pm:   

It could be a limit switch on the door. When my front door (only door) is open the air throttle won't work, just idles. Also, definitely no mousetrap on my 6V92 TA.


Ed Jewett
1988 Neoplan Metroliner
TWO DOGS (65.179.200.47)

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Posted on Monday, January 05, 2004 - 10:33 am:   

sorry guys...I don't have 92 experience...just sounded like a mousetrap problem...
Don Fairchild (209.234.134.61)

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Posted on Monday, January 05, 2004 - 6:01 pm:   

If I understand the problem you are getting a 61-68 code or a s001-s008 fault. the cause called out is for one of the following, A bad injector harness or poor vehicle ground or sticky solenoid valve. It's probly not the solenoid's, check the harness connection, clean the connection and use new dialectric grease. check your ground, also check for low voltage this will also cause high injector response times. Any vehicle lockouts might also cause this problem. I hope this helps.

Don
jmaxwell (66.81.52.58)

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Posted on Monday, January 05, 2004 - 9:16 pm:   

Where does one start to shop to get a handheld DDEC reader?
Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.222.151)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 - 3:57 am:   

I bought a new basic no frills unit on Ebay. Cost me about $255 plus shipping.

Then I had to buy the cartridge for my DDCE 2 which was $415 plus the cord to connect to the truck at $97.

If you have a newer DDEC unit such as a 3 or 4, my cartridge will do 2 and 3 (there is another which will do 1 and 2) but 4 is now dealt with using a Multiprotocol Cartridge which uses credit card style info and the Multiprotocol unit is over $600 plus the info card. I don't think you can get a DDEC 4 in the old style cartridge.

Best prices I found were at www.chalks.com of Houston TX. very helpful people too, ask for Craig. He checked it all the way from UPS pick-up to delivery.

Peter.
Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.20)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 - 8:05 am:   

I guess I'll never own a bus newer than an '87, isn't that the year they went to DDEC engines? (Not to say that I am not perfectly happy with my RTS.)

--Geoff
'82 RTS CA (350HP and NO DDEC!)
Nick Morris (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 6:29 pm:   

Hope someone can help me. I've got a '47 3751, it's got a '85 model 671 or at least it says on the back of the bus it does. I need to know if the starter on the thing is 12v or 24v. The batteries are wired 12v but I know that may not mean anything. My folks had one when I was a kid and said that it started 24v and switched to 12v problem is if it's supposed to do that the switch to do it is gone (if it's supposed to be in the battery bay). She's got some cosmetic trouble but runs good once I get her started. I just bought her and I don't have any experince with 24v or the positive ground system on her. HELP please!!!!
jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 7:50 pm:   

there ought to be a tag on the starter... it will probably be oval shaped... red.... and it'll have the voltage on it..... it won't hurt the starter to be hooked up to 24 volts....by accident...i do it all the time to spin an engine faster...when troubleshooting something... unless someone has changed it, it will still be pos ground.... rj told me to look at the generator, if it has split fields, f1.. f2.. then its pos ground....the only things that's "bad" about pos ground is that most modern stuff...radios etc, are neg ground....at 1 time, back in the 50's and 60's pos ground was thought to give a more "cleaner" voltage... today, very few vehicles are pos ground.... and even fewer have the old parallel switch that started vehicles on 24 volts off of a 12 volt system.... hope it helps. ive got a 1954, 5105.... and just got "da book"
Nick Morris (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 8:17 pm:   

I looked at the tag and it's beyond help, but the voltage reg. and the kill seloniod both say 12v so I'm guessing it's a 12v system. My problem may just be that it's about 10 degrees here any thoughs on cold weather starting?
jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 9:33 pm:   

if you had a block heater, it would help..... i have one that's plumbed into a hose from the top of the water manifold to the bottom of the oil cooler....it will heat the engine up to around 140 degrees in 4-5 hrs.... that helps....if the bus has been sitting for along time, you may need to pressure-prime the fuel system....make sure you have fully-charged batteries..2- 8d's would be nice....and make sure all the battery cables, ends, and connections are nice and clean.....
Tom Caffrey (Pvcces) (65.74.64.127)

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Posted on Wednesday, January 07, 2004 - 10:12 pm:   

Nick, 10 degrees is awful cold to start one of these Detroits. If it's got the 40 weight oil in it, that's going to make it turn even slower.

The fuel injectors are going to require that the engine crank at a minimum RPM, or there won't be enough fuel to start the engine. And there has to be enough heat in the compressed air from cranking to start the fuel burning. Ether does two things; it lowers the ignition temperature of the fuel mix and it provides some fuel.

We use two methods to start cold diesels. If it's not too cold, a light shot of ether into the intake manifold. If it's too cold or the engine is too worn to produce enough compression, then we take loose the air cleaner and use a weed burner near the intake so that the engine breathes hot air. Don't mix the two methods.

This will start very stubborn engines if you use enough battery to cause injectors to work. One thing to remember; you will more likely damage a starter if it cranks slowly than if you use enough voltage to make it crank at a good speed.

This is because high current is what does the damage and cranking speed is the main thing that limits the current at any given voltage.

For what it's worth.

Tom Caffrey PD4106-2576
Suncatcher
Nick Morris (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 8:08 pm:   

Hey guys I just got in from tinkerin with the bus and noticed the air intake. The only place I can find for my 671 to suck air is from a hole in the air box about an inch and a half around. Now I know enough about diesels to be dangerous but I know that my 96 250 is turbo charged and I can tell a major difference in fuel mileage when my air filter gets dirty. So how is it that a much bigger engine breathe through a tiny whole like that?
jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60)

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Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 8:32 pm:   

im guessing at numbers on your truck but the 671 is only 426 cu in... and if you have a 7.3 in your truck,thats like 444.....theres lots of differnce in a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke... the blower on the detroit "scavenges"... it really doesnt boost... your turbo puts up "boost' when there is a demand for it.... at idle, thers no boost... if you had a gage on it, you'd have to have a load and be somewhere above 16-1700 rpm before the boost appeared on the gage....below 1500 or so, theres still a vacuum on the intake.... been there, measured with a manifold pressure gage....in"hg, at that....
Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.121.35)

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Posted on Thursday, January 08, 2004 - 10:27 pm:   

Nick-- what you looking at that is only 1 1/2" ? You have an inlet on the blower that has a 3-4" hose going up to the air cleaner.
Nick Morris (65.41.50.89)

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Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 8:11 am:   

Geoff, yeah that there but between the air filters but they get air from the top out of a box and the only way I can see to get in it is that little hole. I can see dirt and stuff that has stuck to the inside of it and it looks like a whole lot of air come through that hole pretty fast.
Nick Morris (65.117.139.135)

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Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 12:44 pm:   

My last doesn't make much sence, I'll try agian. I've got that 3-4 inch tube from the engine to the air filter "box" (for lack of a better term). The "box" is 2.5 feet wide at the bottom and about a foot at the top and about 2 feet deep. All three of the air filters go up inside it and the only place I can find to get into it from the outside is that small hole. Jim thinks it's ok and like I said I know enough about diesels to be dangerous but I can't see how my 671 is getting enough to breath. She ran ok coming from VA but didn't have the power the one my folks had did. It would run 80 like it would run 20. My top was about 65 on flat ground. Like I said I don't know, I'm just trying to find normal.

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