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jerry garrido (Uemjg)
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Post Number: 40
Registered: 10-2010
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Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 6:43 pm:   

My house batteries will total 4 and will be wet cell 8d type. How much venting is really needed? Can they be in the same bay as my inverters, breaker panel, etc,?
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Post Number: 477
Registered: 3-2006
Posted From: 216.198.139.38


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Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 6:52 pm:   

Jerry
You need a good flow of air to avoid buildup of gases when the batteries charge. They give off hydrogen gas which is very explosive and corrosive. Do not put them in any compartment with other things. Especially electronics like the inverter. They need to be in a compartment of their own and no connection to the interior of the coach.
Bill.
George M. Todd (George_todd)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 8:56 pm:   

Jerry,
Bill is correct, wet batteries must be in a well ventilated compartment. This means about a 6 inch square vent right at/or in the bottom, and another 6 inch square at the top, NOT opening into the coach. Technically the hydrogen isn't corrosive, its the acid vapors that are given off by charging or discharging batteries, the hydrogen is just plain VERY flammable. Remember the Hindenberg!
G
Gus Causbie (Gusc)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 9:27 pm:   

Actually, George, the Hindenburg's main problem was the highly flammable nitrate dope used on the airframe fabric and static electricity.

Of course the Hydrogen inside in the bag didn't help much once the fabric started to burn!!
jerry garrido (Uemjg)
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Posted on Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 9:51 pm:   

will a fan pulling the air out work? If wanted to split a cargo bay in half for the house batteries how well does it need to be sealed? Material to use other that treated wood?
Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
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Post Number: 666
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 3:25 am:   

Gerry consider boxing your " juice"...
A decent Sheet Metal shop, a cartoon with dimensions, the Aluminum sheet & cash early in the day
usually can get you a finished box ready to mount that evening.
Here's a free clue...
https://picasaweb.google.com/jackfids/4106Album#5545383999628508322

BTW.... think about using Pick-up Truck bed-liner that is brushed or rolled on... it's acid proof.
treated wood is for gardens & RR ties.







(Message edited by Jack_fids on March 31, 2011)
FAST FRED (Fast_fred)
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Post Number: 1496
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 6:13 am:   

The battery box or area will some venting tho unless you deep discharge and recharge really hard 100A 200A the hydrogen will not be a problem.

One concept is to recycle it with a Deep Cycle Battery cap that helps keep the need for battery watering down.

The second is simple , keep spark sources , RV solenoid battery combiner or a rotary bank selector switch out of the compartment.

If you are watering weekly the batts are working hard.

"wet cell 8d type"

This is a size description (like size 9W shoes) not a description of intended service.

DEEP CYCLE batts , sometimes can be found in 8D , mostly from high quality marine specialty sources.

Golf carts 6V usually make a better house setup.

And beware of the "dual purpose" batts , they are poor at everything.

FF

(Message edited by FAST FRED on March 31, 2011)
don goldsmith (Bottomacher)
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Post Number: 280
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 9:17 am:   

I expect to make my (MC9) battery box out of stainless steel with a plywood lid, vented to the outside of the bus. However, I dont know if the vacuum along the bus sides will allow exhaust, or will actually draw air into the box. Anyone know if it will work, or a better way?
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Post Number: 478
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 11:21 am:   

Don
Try to get two holes as George suggests vented to the outside. One top and one bottom. I think the air coming into the box doesn't matter. The idea is you are preventing the build up of hydrogen gases. Jacks idea of the bed-liner spray on material is a good one. I have it on my pickup truck and it is indestructable.
Bill
jerry garrido (Uemjg)
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 3:15 pm:   

Thanks guys for the suggestions and pics...if anyone else has pics/info on their battery compartment bring it on.
les marston (Les_marston)
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Post Number: 300
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Posted From: 68.151.225.213


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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 6:42 pm:   

Does the spray on box liner come in a rattle can?
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 8:55 pm:   

I recently used Herculiner on my battery box. Bought it from PEP boys. You can paint it on or use the roller that comes in a kit package. It is pretty durable. I think that I am going to install a 3 inch 24 volt muffin fan at one port. Coach already has a 3 inch hole in floor of battery box.
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 10:39 pm:   

Les
Yes the spray on box liner comes in spray cans.
http://www.rhinolinings.com/
This site explains it.
Bill
Bill Gerrie (Bill_gerrie)
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Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2011 - 10:52 pm:   

Les
Put the wrong site for the spray cans. try this one. http://www.levineautoparts.com/duptrucbedli.html
Bill
don goldsmith (Bottomacher)
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Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 4:04 pm:   

When you all say battery box, what material is it made of? If wood, will that spray liner stick to it? If you make it out of treated plywood, why does it need any finish at all?
Jack Fids (Jack_fids)
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Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 9:30 pm:   

Wood & Hydrogen Sulfide is a bad idea, you waste you time in the long run...Aluminum sheet is cheap at the recycle yard other wise have a HVAC shop bend you a custom one....don't be afraid of using the right people for the job.
les marston (Les_marston)
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Posted on Friday, April 01, 2011 - 10:33 pm:   

thanks Bill
I thought it must come in a can. Seems like a good way to protect the box and batteries.
I am itching to do a bit on the bus now that I can see it emerging from the snow drift it was under.
don goldsmith (Bottomacher)
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Post Number: 282
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Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 9:05 am:   

I would have thought aluminum would corrode quickly. That's why I expect to use stainless. Is that wrong?
john w. roan (Chessie4905)
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Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 8:14 pm:   

Mine is made of 3/4 plywood; replaced the end piece because it had a little bit of wood rot. Double coated entire inside of box, lid and alum floor with two coats of the Rhino lining. ( the alum floor had some corrosion at vent hole). The paint on type left a very durable coating, which more than met my expectations. I originally was going to line the box with neoprene, but was concerned about sweating between wood and rubber.
joe padberg (Joemc7ab)
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Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 9:08 pm:   

Jerry

I would use your start batteries compartment as a guide. It has a vent at both top and bottom, If your house batts are 4 times the capacity, I would go with that number times the size for your vent holes.

Joe.
doug yes (Dougg)
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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 9:02 pm:   

The new MCI J coaches have a two part battery bay separated by a panel with a gasket. The bottom part has batteries and is vented through the bay door. The top part holds the Vanners, breakers and master switch.
Tom Christman (Tchristman)
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Post Number: 286
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Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2011 - 11:03 am:   

You can solve all your problems with venting by switching to AGM batteries. Expensive-yes. But no maintenance since they are sealed, no corrosion on the terminals or checking water, they can be installed in any position except upside down, and they can be installed inside if you want. I have them, and after experiencing the joys of not having to worry about watering, cleaning the batteries, will only run AGM's from now on. Good Luck, TomC

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