| Author | Message | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I'll start this tread with rather good news that was a surprise to me. When I bought my 3751 about a month ago it had on new bat and one that was about two years old. When I got her home she wouldn't start again. Everyone said I had to have two good 8d's. On a tight budget I couldn't get them now so I decided to play with the ones I had. Low and behold about a hour ago I talked the ole girl into fireing up!!!!! Started just like I'd think a 671 should when it's 9 degrees, a little starting fluid and away we go. That's the good news. As I was trying to get her turned around and out the driveway (it's pretty tight) the problem arose. As I type here in the house the gear shif sits on my desk!!!!! So now I have a 35 foot coach as much in the way as it can get and still be on my land and I have no way to move her. HELP!!!!!!!! | ||
| jim mci-9 (209.240.205.60) Rating: N/A |
with the engine stopped, put it in gear.. whichever way you wanna go... get back in the drivers seat, push the clutch in, start the engine....move as necessary....wanna go the other direction??? kill the engine, ge out.. go back shift gears.. repeat as necessary... kinda crude, but effictive enogh to get it to a repair shop... i think don's had some experience with shifting outside the box.... | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I got the rest of it off and half of it was broke already. I have no idea where it is, and half won't cut it. I'm hoping someone knows where to get one??? | ||
| DonTX/KS (66.82.9.14)
Rating: N/A |
Now you REALLY need that parts bus, huh? | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
diffinitely!!!!!! | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I'm not sure I've got enough bat to start it as many times as I'll need to. Has anyone tried to shif with a screwdriver? It would take a big one but would it work to get it back to garage. It's not far but I'm going to have to back up, pull forward and probably back up again. (My air assist doesn't work.) Then I'll have to pull up, back up, pull up, and back up again to get it in the hole. | ||
| Geoff (Geoff) (66.238.120.2)
Rating: N/A |
Jim has the right idea to get it out of your driveway-- switch the gears at the tranny while the engine is off. Maybe you can weld the shifter back together later if you have enough parts. | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I guess I'll try that tomorrow. Unforturnatly this shifter is toast, only half of it is there and by the looks of the old broken end it could have be broke when it came off the line. It's smoothed off and greasy. I'm still going to look down under the steering colum it I can find it I can braze it back. I hoping just to find one. It looks to me like it just slips on and the pin goes in the back side. Am I right or is it more complex than that? | ||
| Richard Bowyer (Drivingmisslazy) (24.196.191.70)
Rating: N/A |
Nick,If you can enlist a helper, he could hold the clutch in while you shifted the gears. Just vbe sure it is a good dependable reliable friend as something like this could, as Clark Echols says, get you critically killed. Richard Maybe you could hold the clutch and get him to shift the gears. Richard | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905) (69.162.16.88)
Rating: N/A |
Get a buddy with a 4 wheel drive and a chain...take your time moving it around. Don't even screw around trying to use it's own power; keep it easy and simple. Just start it in neutral and idle so you have brakes.... get a couple of walkie talkies to talk to the driver in the 4x4 while you do this, if necessary.Good Luck | ||
| John Feld (Deacon) (150.199.209.5)
Rating: N/A |
Can you take a picture of what you have broken, and all the parts that you have Post it here. John 4104 & 4106 | ||
| B Wayne (24.242.117.43) Rating: N/A |
Dont braze it unless it is a brass part! Always join two parts with the same filler. If it broke already, a braze is Definitely too weak. | ||
| bob-m (68.35.160.48) Rating: N/A |
One of my 4104 shift rods parted above the rear axle. got home by shifting into second at the transmission and starting in gear. I repaired it with a sleeve, epoxy and two compression fittings | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I'm planning on getting some pictures tomorrow. It's the actual shifter on the colum that you move with your hand. Broke right where is strightens out for the pin that holds it on. However the other half of the thing was already gone so I'm going to either have to get another one or fab a new end for this one. It's cast iron, the only way I know of to fix it is a braze. If that's not going to be strong enough I need ideas, it's a small part so I may be able to weld it. I've got some cast rods and a fordge to pre heat it in. It's gunna kill the crome but I can get that redone. Anyother thoughs are more than welcome. A good parts bus in northwest ohio would be nice too. You know one that's in a heated well equiped shop  | ||
| john w. roan (Chessie4905) (69.162.16.88)
Rating: N/A |
Try Crawfords Coach McCoy Ville Pa.717-527-4555.Ask for Wayne. They have quite a few old GM models there. Used to have a couple with column shift.Also old Flex and Flyers, couple old Brills,Twin Coach, and what nots. Area code may have changed as some new ones were added in some areas. | ||
| Phil Dumpster (24.16.189.48) Rating: N/A |
My first car was a 1965 Chevy van with a three speed on the column. Its shifter broke in much the same fashion as you describe, right where the pin that holds it in place and allows it to pivot up and down. I didn't have machine shop access at the time, but my brother knew someone who did, so he had his friend weld it and grind off the excess so that it would fit back into the shifter mechanism. It broke again three days later. Never did figure out what alloy GM used, but even with good penetration the stress at this point exceeds the strength of most common mild steels. They must have use something really tough, or tempered it in a special way. Perhaps it would be possible to temper the welded joint so it wouldn't be so brittle. The van died in a tragic rollover several weeks later and a solution was never found. What I would do today if I still had the van is start with a piece of cold rolled roundstock and make a new piece that goes into the shifter, and then the original shift lever gets attached to that. If I didn't have a lathe, I would try to freehand it with a die grinder. Forget brazing. I doubt a brazed joint is going to hold. This is not a component that you want to have fail on you away from home. Amazing how one little lever can disable an entire bus. | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
Well I got her move back to her house. It's 16 and feels like 0 here with the wind chill and it's snowing. My wife didn't want to shift the tranny or sit in the bus and hold the clutch so I chose the screwdriver to put in the forks on the colum to shift her. Worked pretty good, a little tedious but overall not bad. I wouldn't want to go down the road like that for sure. Thanks for all the help guys I'm sure I'll need it later on as well. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Question for the electrical guru's! New/used H-3 Prevost No Dash lights All gauges work Circuit breaker is not tripped Power to circuit breaker NO power to rheostat or better known as dash light dimmer NO wires cut or broken that I can see Prevost says Rheostat could be bad but can't tell since no power to it Yes all bulbs are good! Any Ideas? Ace | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.210.160)
Rating: N/A |
Ground strap for the light circuit? I know u say no power at rheostat, but are you going from a solid ground to test? | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Yes I checked it from a solid ground EVERYWHERE! ALL other lights work EVERYWHERE! | ||
| BrianMCI96A3 (198.81.26.45)
Rating: N/A |
On RARE occaision I have run across a similar situation and found a wire that was parted INSIDE the intact insulation. That said, I'd suspect a bad ground first, as Jmax mentioned. One way to discover if that is or isn't the problem is to run a jumper from a known good ground, to the dash ground, if the lights don't come on, you have another problem...if the lights work... make a better ground connection for the dash. Brian | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.211.131)
Rating: N/A |
Ace: Once u are sure of the ground, it almost has to be an open hot wire between the circuit breaker and the rheostat. Is this by chance a printed circuit dash board? If so, check the din connector to the board. At any rate, check for power along the circuit coming from the circuit breaker to the rheostat, since u have power at the circuit breaker. Another possibility, although not probable, is a voltage regulator in the circuit that has opened. I am not familiar w/ Prevo circuitry, so it is just general suspicions on my part. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
No this is not a printed circuit board. "At any rate, check for power along the circuit coming from the circuit breaker to the rheostat, since u have power at the circuit breaker." To trace ANY wire from ANY breaker would mean opening up wires that are bundled together that appear to resemble celery stalk bundles in the grocery store but only more of them! LOL I mean every little door I open has bundles and bundles of wires. Seriously... nothing in this bus has had the handy work of El Butchero anywhere I can see and I have been in some pretty dark places today looking at all of them! I checked all the relays, bulbs, breakers and connections. Everything seems to have a plug to connect to another! Nothing loose, broken, cut, tripped, or disconnected! My journey continues... | ||
| Bob (Bobb) (69.19.5.78)
Rating: N/A |
Ace.. go to Lowes and buy a "Wire Tracker" - 35 bucks or so.. You will be able to follow that wire without undoing all the wire looms. Just make sure you have turned off the battery switch before you use it. It will come in handy down the road too, for identifying circuits during your conversion process. | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
Thanks for all your help guys. Like I said I've got her back in her house but I managed to get a few pics while she was out. Some of you had be asking to see the project so here ya go. There's a little info on her and then click "peachy pictures" to see her. Thanks again. http://www.watchtv.net/~nmorris/morris/peachy.html | ||
| James Maxwell (Jmaxwell) (66.81.212.50)
Rating: N/A |
Nick: What are all those white specs in the pictures. Don't tell me it's sn-- oh no, don't say that word! | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
that's what it is!!!!!! | ||
| ChuckMC9 (Chucks) (66.167.143.35)
Rating: N/A |
You know, Nick, that you need to have OSHA certified cleats on your shoes when trying to push or pull a bus. There's also a spec for safety support mechanisms for temporary overhead weather shelters like the one you're trying to employ.  LOL! | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
I'm trying to start it Chuck, not push it. I may be a busnut but I'm not totally nuts!!! | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
latest report of the missing dash gauge lights is: there are still none to be found, but I DID find that the blaupunt radio that was installed inthe lower right side of dash was not working and with good reason. It apparently had a short because after fiddling with the wires, it had a mysterious glow from inside the box. I immediatly removed the radio and all corresponding wires that went to it! At least the bus didn't go up in smoke, BUT wait there's more... NOW, after looking for the missing lights, the check engine light comes on while running the motor. Does this mean I will have to go to an authorized prevost dealer for a check-up? I can't ever remember having this much fun with my Eagle when I first got it! Still any ideas on either the missing lights or the check engine light? | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.107.194)
Rating: N/A |
Ace, Did you take a feed directly to the dash lights rheostat (imput and output connections) to see if they actually all worked? Thereby eliminating any problems in that part of the circuit. If it comes to it, you could always feed the dash lights directly from the light switch through another fuse/breaker. What engine do you have? If a DD is it a DDEC 2 or 3? If it is, you will need a ProLink 9000 to read any faults and reset the "Check Engine" light. If you have a friendly DD dealer nearby, they will often run this handheld diagnostic unit for free for you. Peter. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Peter I have a source for a pro link 9000 but he says it only does Ford, gm, & chrys. Is there something else that needs to go with it to be used with DD 8V92? Thanks Ace | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.107.194)
Rating: N/A |
Ace, You need to know what DDEC series you have, if any? If it is a DDEC 1 or 2 you have to buy the cartridge for that pair, if it is a 2 or 3 you buy that cartridge. If it is a DDEC 4 then you need the multiprotcol cartridge AND the credit card info card. The average price of a cartridge is $439, I got mine a little cheaper and so were quoting a lot more. I have a DDEC 2 and elected to buy the DDEC2 and 3 unit in case I get a newer unit someday or upgrade mine for some reason. My Freightliner is a 1994 and is at the end of the DDEC 2 series. You will also need a connector to fit whatever socket is in the vehicle, mine used the round 6 pin Duetz and cost $93. Peter. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
I was told that mine is equipped with a DDEC 2. I have made arrangements for a shop to do a DDEC test at the cost of 65 bucks! They said it would tell me everything that was wrong with it, including the history of the coach! Ace | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.107.194)
Rating: N/A |
Ace, The $65 is fairly standard, Williams in Phoenix offered to reset the top speed limiter (not an RPM limiter) for free as it only took a few minutes. I haven't got into mine yet to see exactly what can be done with the ProLink, I do know that my truck has the max speed set at 65mph and it can remove that. It will tell you exactly what has gone on with the motor since the start of it's life unless the computer was changed out. Any horsepower increases have to be done using a downlink from the DD mainframe and that can cost quite a lot, depending upon the dealer. Peter. | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Well surprise to me! My usuall bus mechanic, the one who re-wired my Eagle, informed me he has all necessary DDEC testing equiptment and when he found out I am now the owner of an H3, he gladly asked if he could do the test. What could I say? | ||
| Ace (24.28.41.194) Rating: N/A |
Took bus out this morning to have the wheels polished. They look great and if anyone is ever in central Florida, I found a guy who knows his stuff! The wheels speak for themselves! Also, stopped by my mechanics shop and he ran a DDEC test because it seems the stop engine light came on while backing out of the wheel bay. Yea I was a little scared! It never happened before so it was new to me! Anyway, I found that the bus has multiple fault codes. None very serious...yet! At least we hope they're not serious! Need to try a few things first and test again! One is change the oil! Seems the oil pressure is a little low at idle and this may have caused the shut down! We're hoping the oil is old, dirty making the viscosity down resluting in low pressure. After running it and getting it hot, it does seem pretty thin! Also another fault code was a low cooling voltage and high cooling voltage. We're hoping it's either a bad cooling module or a bad connection to the module, or maybe even a ground! Hard to think you could have low voltage AND high voltage at the same time but that's what it says! Anyway, we made it home without any check engine light or stop engine light coming on and that made the trip a little better! Aren't onboard computers fun? NOT! Now if I could fix that belt that squealls in between shifts and over 60 mph! Ah heck it will give me something to do in the meantime! Ace |