| Author | Message | ||
| robleight (205.188.209.8)
Rating: |
We are in the process of gutting the existing back bedroom in our 81 Eagle 10, and turning into the typical lounge in an Entertainer style. Before we close everything back up, would anyone suggest a lead - type of insullation on the floor and rear wall to keep that engine heat away? In the summer, it gets over 100 degrees in there - very uncomfortable. | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.98.116)
Rating: N/A |
The best I found was to use Super Tuff-R. It is carried by Lowes but our local ones only carried 1/2" and 3/4" thick 4x8 sheets. It is rated at R=7.2 per inch and if you cover that with 3/4" ply to protect it and spread the load, it should be fine. In a heavy traffic area or where the solid foam board may be subject to loads that could eventually crush it, I was advised to use 1 by battens every 12" to aid the support, but in a bus situation, it might well not be necessary unless it is going to be a dance floor...... LOL. Peter. | ||
| Bill 340 (166.153.110.103)
Rating: N/A |
Take the tail gate and raise every panel along the bottom edge, aprox 1/2 in, giving it that louvered look. and it will take huge amounts of heat away, Ours used to get too hot to breathe till we did that, Then afterwards it was quite liveable, Also the engine ran cooler, Bill 340 | ||
| Jim Shepherd (Rv_Safetyman) (67.234.181.167)
Rating: N/A |
I insulated the exhaust manifolds with a very high temperature insulation material and then wrapped that with a high-temperature foil. That should eliminate a great deal of the heat. I also used the same type of material in the raised bed area. You can look at some of that work on the project page listed below. Jim Shepherd Evergreen, CO ’85 Eagle 10 http://rvsafetysystems.com Bus Project details: http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject.htm | ||
| Sam Sperbeck (204.248.119.254) Rating: N/A |
Hi Jim, I enjoyed looking at your site to see all the progress you have made on your project. Thanks for sharing. In looking at your electrical layout in your bay I have to wonder if you have had a qualified electrician look at your system? Have you read the discussion about hooking up ampmeters started by David Anderson and answered by Sean and others on this site very recently? Thanks, Sam Sperbeck La Crescent, MN | ||
| Jim Shepherd (Rv_Safetyman) (67.234.181.167)
Rating: N/A |
Sam, I have not had an electrician look at the wiring. Is there something you see that needs to be corrected? I have been very careful to make sure everything is properly fused and wiring properly sized. I have also been careful to separate the high and low voltage circuits. All wiring is marine type (lots of controversy, but I believe it is the way to go). Obviously, all of the wiring needs to be secured, but I am waiting for that effort until all of the wiring is done. I did follow the ammeter thread a while back. I chose to use direct reading ammeters. That meant that I had to run 6 gage wire to the power panel, but it was worth it to me to be able to monitor balance of each 120V leg. Jim Shepherd Evergreen, CO ’85 Eagle 10 http://rvsafetysystems.com Bus Project details: http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject.htm | ||
| john wood (209.137.231.105)
Rating: N/A |
My bed in the summer used to be a cooker till I installed a layer of 1" Rmax iso foam between the mattress and the platform. Now it stays relatively cool and in the winter, is warmer too! Also found out that a small leak in the exhaust caused the floors in the bedroom to get right warm. | ||
| Sam Sperbeck (204.248.119.254) Rating: N/A |
Hi Jim, Yes, I see three things that may be problems. First, in Sean Welch's post on Jan. 30, 2004 he states, "Bear in mind that NEC rules require all hot, neutral, and ground for any given circuit to travel together wherever they go". It appears that only hot wires are going to your ampmeters from the junction box to the lower left of your main panel. Second, unless the color is distorted in your picture you used green wire to feed your ampmeters. Green is for ground. I will withhold comment on the third item until I check the NEC manual. If I am misinterpreting what I see or if you don't wish to comply with the NEC please disregard my comments. Another item of intrest is how did you handle the neutral/ground bond on your inverter feed? I couldn't see enough of your system to determine that. Thanks, Sam Sperbeck La Crescent, MN | ||
| Jim Shepherd (Rv_Safetyman) (67.234.197.183)
Rating: N/A |
My apologies to those following this thread. It has drifted off the subject and we can start another thread if you all wish. Sam, thanks so much for doing a cross-check on my electrical. Yes, the wires to the ammeters are paired together so that there is a run to and from the ammeter in one smurf tubing for each leg. I figured that there would be no voltage potential within the run and there is pretty good insulation to keep the run from shorting out. The green wire has tape at each end to identify that it is the red or black leg of the run. Probably not the best way to do it, but it was the only fine stranded wire that the supplier had. I checked with my licensed friend and he thought it would be ok if it were identified at each end. The neutral and ground are kept separate all the way through the coach. There has been a lot written on this subject, and I think I followed the majority opinion. I believe that the inverter ties the two together but I am not sure of that. As you can tell, I have tried to follow proper wiring techniques. I really want to be as close to code as possible. I would not be able to pass code because of the marine wire, but other than that, I have tried to follow safe practice. No matter, I really welcome any input that will make my system as safe as possible. Jim Shepherd Evergreen, CO ’85 Eagle 10 http://rvsafetysystems.com Bus Project details: http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject.htm | ||
| Nick Morris (Nick3751) (65.117.139.135)
Rating: N/A |
testin my pass word | ||
| Jayjay (64.12.96.105) Rating: N/A |
FWIW-Green wire for a current carrying conductor is not only unlawful, it's dangerous, and it's also the most likely source of your next litigation, from whomever you eventually sell it to. The last time the Coast Guard updated it's wiring standards was about 1974, and that's just part of why the NEC forbids boat wire. ...JJ | ||
| Larry (208.18.102.188) Rating: N/A |
Well here we go again; The NEC permits to use, I'll say the wrong color wire IF they are COLORED CODED on ALL the ENDS by a proper manner such as wraps of elec tape or other permanent method. | ||
| Ray Lala (12.34.243.185)
Rating: N/A |
Just wondering I may have missed a post on this subject at some time, but what is wrong with boat wire? I understood romex is taboo and stranded in conduit was good & I thought boat wire was the best because of the more & finer strands which make it flexable. Thanks Ray | ||
| Peter Broadribb (Madbrit) (67.136.82.40)
Rating: N/A |
Ray, There is nothing wrong with using Romex, millions of RVs have been using it for years. You just have to support it, in other words no 4 foot long lengths draped across the storage bays...... LOL. Marine wire doesn't meet the NEC rules, can't remember why. Multistranded wire is difficult to attach unless you use crimp-on ends. You must not solder the ends of this type of wire as the start of the applied solder can create a stress point and possibly cause a fracture. Also, you cannot crimp onto a soldered cable as the solder will move and the joint can come loose or arc. Remember the aluminum house wiring that was banned? Same thing happened there. I am using regular automotive wire for all the low voltage and Romex for all the 120 volt and supporting it properly. Why do people make things difficult when the whole concept is tried and tested. It's not a bad thing to copy the RV industry once in a while. Peter. |
