| Author |
Message |
moore1234 (152.163.197.83)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2001 - 11:21 pm: | |
Looking for advise on covering four window openings on a Le Mirage. Prevost recommends removing the windows & frames and replace them with a sheet of rolled 3/16" aluminum. One sheet is 8'long and cost approx. $300. Does anyone know of a more economical option to cover the windows short of painting them? |
Wilbur Bradbury (204.245.250.38)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 3:30 am: | |
The way I did mine was remove the windows and frame together. Just take a drill and drill through the head of the rivets and punch the rivet out. I used two 18 ga. steel panels on each side to replace four windows a side. Took one of the fiberglass window frames to a local sheetmetal shop and ask them to match the radius, they did a great job. I put the panels on by myself, went on pretty good. I at first wanted to use a single panel on a side, glad I didn't, it would have been a big and heavy piece to hold in place. Wilbur Bradbury |
Steve Fessenden (63.27.89.16)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2001 - 1:46 pm: | |
Good Idea, but the LeMirage does not have any steel panels. I would definitely use aluminum. You can find a sheet metal shop that can make the panels out of alulminum.
Steve Fessenden |
moore1234 (152.163.204.182)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2001 - 8:19 pm: | |
Thanks Steve and Wilbur. I just removed four windows and fames out of one side of my coach. Tomorrow I plan on installing the panels to cover the window openings. My next question is regarding the installation. What is the best way to affix the panels to the frame? At 84 inches per panel I will need two panels to cover the openings. In order to get the correct contour of the frame will I have to use rivets or do you think "silkaflex" adhesive and caulk will be sufficient to hold the overlapped panels to each other and the frame. I dislike the 'pucker'that Rivets tend to leave when they are drawn tight.
However, I may not have a choice. Stan |
John OKeefe (207.89.142.4)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 17, 2001 - 11:05 pm: | |
I am going to add some Prevost windows to the bus I am converting and need a templet for cutting out the windows openings. Would you be interested in selling one of the individual window panels. My bus was originally a recording bus and the upper window area is 1/16" thick metal. I don't believe it is aluminum and was told that it came from Prevost like that. I also was told by Prevost parts that they only came with 3/16" aluminum. Please e-mail me if interested in selling/loaning old window panel. Thanks, John (amokeefe@net-link.net) |
Phil (204.89.170.3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2001 - 9:26 am: | |
To avoid some of the pucker at the edge of an overlap try a SLIGHT bend on the overlapping edge about 1/4 inch back from teh edge. I use this in aircraft building and it will still go around a curve but the edge will lay flat. Of coursr the effectiveness of this will vary with thickness of the material. |
moore1234 (205.188.198.189)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2001 - 11:18 pm: | |
Phil
Thanks for the tip. I will remember the slight bend technique.
I ended up installing the panels with sikaflex 252
The finished job is nice and smooth with no "puckers" or rivets. It appears as though the adhesive is very strong yet somewhat pliable.
From what I have experienced, I am impressed with
the "adhesive method" of attaching body panels.
Stan |
Phil (204.89.170.3)
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2001 - 9:10 am: | |
Actually I use a tool made by an aircraft specialty tool company (Cleveland Tools)to do this. It is made from a small pair of vise-grips and rollers (hard to describe). It works on aluminum up to about .032. |